McCulloch Mini and Small CC Chainsaw's

[tricky50]

I need the idle screw with the plastic fast idle piece on it. Anybody have an extra?

Workshop,

I had the same problem with the Mac 140 I have. Had to buy a parts saw from ebay to get the screw & fast idle device.
The fast idle piece on my saw is metal.
When you get one put thread lock on the screw to prevent it from vibrating out again. That includes the high and low set screws also. I lost two of the three screws when they came loose from vibration. Very common problem!

Tricky

 

[ozflea]

 

[heimannm]

Gentlemen, I am in need of at least a couple of Mini Mac parts saws, in particular models with the yellow top handle in good condition.

Thanks,

Mark

 

[datsunzt]

Hello i have a "bucket" mac 110 rebuilt the carb it started, idled then died. Looks like it flooded itsself.?
Hasnt started since(few days ago)
took flywheel off to check points, not 100% sure i checked the gap right. I turned the crank untill the gap was at its widest =.006 is what i got. read somewhere it should be .015. Any input other than kick it across yard.

 

[heimannm]

Correct point gap should be 0.018 to 0.020", if you are really at 0.006" then you ignition timing will be somewhat retarded.

As long as you have it apart again, take the carburetor down and check the metering lever height, not sure off the top of my head what the setting should be but I suspect you can find the information on line, I think those are Walbro MDC carburetors.

Mark

 

[datsunzt]

Thanks for the reply. I'm pretty sure I checked it right and .006 was what I had for a gap between the 2 contact points.

I took one of my mm 30s apart today(both unrunning) and the points on it were gaped to .014. not sure if it has spark or not coil wire looks beat up

I have checked everywhere for the metering lever height before posting here and have only found talk of some measurement tool walbro sells...
Thanks, Brandon

 

[Cannon51]

I got these 2 saws from my MIL last week. I took the carb apart on the larger one and got it running. The 35 has no spark so I got it took apart and discovered that it has points. I don't have an IPL but all the McCulloch points I've seen cost more than the saw is worth to me. I'm not sure I want to take this thing apart every time I need to test a repair.
Cannon

 

[Cannon51]

Link to post in general chainsaw forum. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/2-free-mccullach-from-mil.253034/
Cannon

 

[heimannm]

The points can be rescued virtually 100% of the time by carefully filing or sanding them to remove any pitting and corrosion. The old documents always stress that they be polished like a mirror. I normally finish with 400 grit wet/dry paper and a final wipe with clean paper once they are installed to remove any grit or oil. The points themselves almost never "wear out", particularly on a small saw like this that is only used a few minutes at a time.

Mark

 

[sawdummy]

Hey guys chainsaw noob here in need of help. Bought my very first chainsaw a year ago, it's a mini mac 6. Ran strong cut everything I put it to then at the end of last season she died. Decided to dive into repairing it with some knowledge of 2 cycle but again this is my first chainsaw. So, it was getting no spark and I traced that to a faulty killswitch. Disconnected the switch and now I have spark. Got her to fire up but wouldn't idle. Went through a tank of gas trying to adjust the idle screws and no combination of adjustments would help. So I bought and carb rebuild kit and a fuel filter, cleaned her out really good and now it will only fire with prime. Seems as though its not getting gas. Had this thing apart 100 times, after the 20th time its actually really easy to get apart and work on. The fuel line seems fine, not being pinched anywhere I dont think.
My question is whats my next step? I'm not too familiar with the point gaps and not really sure where they are or what they look like (noob). I'm wondering if one of those nova chips would be worth a try but again I'm new to saws. It seems as though its not getting fuel. When this saw was working it was a little beast and I want it back!!Lol. Maybe one of you experts could point me in the right direction. Was this mini mac a bad saw to learn on? In the meantime I'll be honing my chain sharpening skills on a homelite 250 I found in the trash that runs rough but runs. Thanks guys.

 

[joeymt33]

See if you can run it by bottle feeding it. What I mean is, put some fuel mix in a spray bottle and spray some down the throat while opening the throttle. If it revs up as it should by doing that, then you should focus on the carb. If it doesn't run being bottle fed, it may be a ignition or air leak issue.

 

[sawdummy]

Yea, that's the only time it will fire is when i shoot gas directly into the carb. I've never messed with the point gaps because i dont know too much about them. where are they located and could it be a gas tank venting problem. I always heard the gas tank sucking air when i would shut it off. not sure what that was about. not sure what else to do at this point.

 

[joeymt33]

If it runs while being bottle fed, you have a carb issue more than likely. I've worked on dozens of those and in most cases it's the carb that's the problem. Even if you rebuild the carb, there is likely blockage in one of the circuits if not both.

 

[heimannm]

FWIW the points are located under the flywheel. If it pops and runs at all, you have spark.

Mark

 

[sawdummy]

Well after playing with my homelite 250 for a while now I'm still missing the mini mac. I cleaned it well when I put the kit in but I didn't soak it. It looked really clean, do you think I should give it a nice soaking or just go ahead and look for another carb? Also I'm wondering what other models of mcculloch use the same carb. It's a zama rb-19 and all that's on ebay is a couple walbro's. If anybody out there has some mini macs they want to get rid of I'm willing to negotiate. I like how much power i get out of such a small and lightweight saw. Thanks guys for all your help.

 

[heimannm]

Too many unknowns to give a solid answer. My first reaction would be to take it apart again and verify the carburetor was correctly assembled. Go to the Zama web site and study your carburetor to make sure you understand exactly how it all goes together. As long as you have it apart, remove a the needles and shoot some carburetor cleaner through them and make sure the passages are open.

Before you put it all back together pressure test the carburetor to verify.

Mark

 

[sawdummy]

Well I took her down again appeared that everything was where it should be and cleaned it out really good with gas and compressed air. While I had it all taken apart I noticed on the piston what looked like to be some scoring but I'm not sure(noob). Carefully put it back together and the same. Only runs gas fed but sounds good for a second or two. I dont have any means of pressure testing so i didn't try that. I can swap a walbro carb onto this thing if I can't find a zama right?

 

[joeymt33]

The walbro is a direct swap. And cheaper to rebuild.

 

[sawdummy]

Ok so after a clean walbro swap, the thing still only runs on prime. Does this eliminate the carb? kept trying to start it and she started smoking a bit after a few good starts but wouldn't stay running.

 

[joeymt33]

Sawdummy, where do you live? Maybe you're close to a mcculloch nut that could help.