Measuring Length

[HuskyJake]

I have always used a homemade measuring stick of some sort. Paint an approximate 1"x1" a bright color and cut to desired length (red, yellow). Lay it on the log, remove and cut, keeping the stick in left hand while making cut. Sometimes use a longer stick, ie 100" marked off for 5-20" blocks to mark multiple blocks (with a marking cut) without carrying the stick with every cut.

 

[willsaw4beer]

I don't bother measuring at all, I just cut it at the knots and cut bigger diameter logs shorter so they're easier to deal with. So pretty much I just cut it so it's easy to split and handle.

 

[redprospector]

I just set the stop on the Chomper for whatever length I want, and stand there & watch it work.

Andy

 

[turnkey4099]

I have always used a homemade measuring stick of some sort. Paint an approximate 1"x1" a bright color and cut to desired length (red, yellow). Lay it on the log, remove and cut, keeping the stick in left hand while making cut. Sometimes use a longer stick, ie 100" marked off for 5-20" blocks to mark multiple blocks (with a marking cut) without carrying the stick with every cut.

That is my basic approach minus the ' hold the stick in left hand'. Tried that - makes handling the saw dangerous as your left hand can't hold either the stick or the saw firmly. Debating a thong through a hole in one end hanging from my wrist. Still don't like that as too much to get in the way.

Harry K

 

[371groundie]

measureing stick

i keep my measuring stick in my right hand. i can hold the stick with my ring and pinky fingers, hold the saw handle with my middle finger, and trigger with my index finger. it also puts the stick inline with the saw. i can limb fir with a 4 foot fiberglass fence post in tow. my cousin carries his across the top handle and it gets in the way more than its worth. of course with a short measureing stick it wont be as bad as a 4foot long one.

 

[Ken05]

Ya know' if I say its 8" the wife will say it's 4". So I think however you measure it, it will be wrong.

 

[Nuzzy]

 

[2FatGuys]

I've seen and heard of most of the methods mentioned in this thread. I've even used many of them myself. We cut 30-50 full cords a year for personal use / family and friends / and sale. Our productivity and "neatness factor" are both the best we've ever managed. The main reason for the improvements:

I'm not saying the other methods don't work. They do, some better than others. I'm just saying that after getting used to it, using the

will greatly increase productivity, neatness and safety. Both of your hands should be on the saw, not fumbling with a measuring stick. The saw was designed with nothing hanging off the side of the bar. Adding an appendage to the saw increases the risk of it catching on something while moving around (and maybe removing one of your own appendages).

 

[iCreek]

So what's yer method?

Great Post !! Learning lots... I struggle with the same thing, when cutting for myself (OWB) I cut 26" - 30", but this year we have so many downed trees and limbs from last year's ice storm that I have been cutting a few loads for my father, 16" - 18" (PE Insert).. Man what a difference... Its like twice the work, and sometimes I end up with 12" pieces...

Thanks for all the tips everyone.. Lots of options to try.

 

[Schultzz]

I use a stick and a paint marker. What is tough though is bending over to cut especially with a 25" bar. So I am making a or "table" out of roller conveyor and and "fence" out of 15' pipe at a height consistent with what feels right for my back. A winch will be used to forward the log on the table. When its done I'll post some photos.

 

[Philbert]

This works for me. Hook made long enough to extend to or past bottom chain. Hook is beveled so it will fit into cut easily.

I have seen a commercially available version of this: you remove a bar nut and screw the fiberglass rod onto the stud with a coupling nut.

I like yours better, because it is home made, and because it doesn't mess up chain tension when you remove it.

Philbert

 

[turnkey4099]

I have seen a commercially available version of this: you remove a bar nut and screw the fiberglass rod onto the stud with a coupling nut.

I like yours better, because it is home made, and because it doesn't mess up chain tension when you remove it.

Philbert

There are commercial 'instant on/off' ones. They use a magnet. I don't like anything that mounts ahead of the dogs though.

Harry K

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I have seen a commercially available version of this: you remove a bar nut and screw the fiberglass rod onto the stud with a coupling nut.

I like yours better, because it is home made, and because it doesn't mess up chain tension when you remove it.

Philbert

I had one. They aren't fiberglass rods, they're plastic. Mine lasted about 15 minutes in the field before I bumped the rod on something and broke it off even with the bar nut.

I now have a Mingo. Works great on 10"+ straight trunks, not so well on branchy stuff. I don't worry about adjusting at crotches, if one or two pieces are hard to split because of where the crotch ends up, just noodle them.

Ian

 

[Philbert]

I have seen a commercially available version of this: you remove a bar nut and screw the fiberglass rod onto the stud with a coupling nut.

Quick Stix Firewood Guide Set

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200320749_200320749

Philbert