2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
One more
[video=youtube_share;VNtBMCjdtUM]http://youtu.be/VNtBMCjdtUM[/video]
[video=youtube_share;VNtBMCjdtUM]http://youtu.be/VNtBMCjdtUM[/video]
Modding the new MS201T - The truth inside
- Thread starter blsnelling
- Start date
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gage52
ArboristSite Member
sorry, im confused on the limiter part. once I drill out the rod what exactly do I suppose to remove? just unscrew the whole thing and remove it completely? please excuse my ignorance. thanks
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Go back to page 1 and look at post #4 1st pic you can see the little hole where the rods was and the limiter that you pull out is stuck on the screw. Then look at the next pic it shows after the limiter is removed
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
If you're worried about messing it up just send it to him to do, he did mine and it screams mine was $50+shipping for everything he did in the video: muff mod,timing advance,and limiter removed.
Not sure if its still $50 PM him for info.
The ONLY you need to remove is the little rod that you drilled out. That simply allows a greater adjustment range for the needle. The saw would not run if you were to remove the needle. It will have to be adjusted after the mods are done. Yes, the price is still $50. I'm actually doing one this afternoon, and did a couple others recently.
Jlhotstick3
ArboristSite Operative
201 muffler mod
Hey brad I saw the work you did on the 201, and I'd live to say great job!! I was also wondering if you would mod my saw if I shipped it to you? Thanks
Hey brad I saw the work you did on the 201, and I'd live to say great job!! I was also wondering if you would mod my saw if I shipped it to you? Thanks
jmester
ArboristSite Operative
limiter cap removal
There is an indentation on the cap that if you line it up with the piece you drilled out. The cap you slide out of there. With out any drilling. Great job on the saw. I did some of the same as you with great results. Thanks. Also did you remove the spark screen and put the screw back in. Or leave it in.
There is an indentation on the cap that if you line it up with the piece you drilled out. The cap you slide out of there. With out any drilling. Great job on the saw. I did some of the same as you with great results. Thanks. Also did you remove the spark screen and put the screw back in. Or leave it in.
Of course, this meant the limiter must be removed on the carb. Theres a rod that must be drilled out that prevents you from pulling out the metal limiter. It was very easy to drill out, with no damage to the carb at all.
Hmmm, looks like a MS261 in there.
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Leave the screen out
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
If you dont remove the pin, how do you adjust your high screw up? I may be wrong, but if you remove the plug, how do you stick a screw driver in there to adjust it.
I drilled mine out, and replaced the part so i could still use a screw driver.
jmester
ArboristSite Operative
limiter cap
You can just pull the cap and leave it off. Or Make your adjustments and reinstall. When you remove the pin or the cap you end up with the same results. Just another way. Maybe easier then drilling . Once the cap is removed you can use a small Allen wrench to adjust the screw. Hope that helps or clarifies.
You can just pull the cap and leave it off. Or Make your adjustments and reinstall. When you remove the pin or the cap you end up with the same results. Just another way. Maybe easier then drilling . Once the cap is removed you can use a small Allen wrench to adjust the screw. Hope that helps or clarifies.
Ms201
With the alloy sleeve removed from the H needle you need a 2mm allen wrench to make adjustments. It is a royal pain to find your way into the 2mm recess in the needle to adjust. If you remove the alloy sleeve, then push the pin out from the inside, you can re-instal the alloy sleeve so that you have the funnel shaped sleeve to guide you into the slot for easy screwdriver use. It is even easier to simply drill out the pin after which you have nothing to re-instal. I think you have accomplished what you wanted & have the alloy sleeve in place for the easiest way to have unlimited adjustment. If my memory is correct, I used a 3/32in cobalt drill bit to remove the pin. It was a very quick & easy job which took all of 1 minute.
With the alloy sleeve removed from the H needle you need a 2mm allen wrench to make adjustments. It is a royal pain to find your way into the 2mm recess in the needle to adjust. If you remove the alloy sleeve, then push the pin out from the inside, you can re-instal the alloy sleeve so that you have the funnel shaped sleeve to guide you into the slot for easy screwdriver use. It is even easier to simply drill out the pin after which you have nothing to re-instal. I think you have accomplished what you wanted & have the alloy sleeve in place for the easiest way to have unlimited adjustment. If my memory is correct, I used a 3/32in cobalt drill bit to remove the pin. It was a very quick & easy job which took all of 1 minute.
jmester
ArboristSite Operative
201 t
You are right in is easier to adjust carb. By drilling out the pin and putting the cap back on. Was just saying another way to do it that's all. Was thinking of the guys who might not want to drill it.
You are right in is easier to adjust carb. By drilling out the pin and putting the cap back on. Was just saying another way to do it that's all. Was thinking of the guys who might not want to drill it.
jmester
ArboristSite Operative
201
Stihl say 14,000 max high speed, I got 13,100 before the rev limiter kicked in. Do I need to go any higher than that. It seems to run well there.
Stihl say 14,000 max high speed, I got 13,100 before the rev limiter kicked in. Do I need to go any higher than that. It seems to run well there.
Anyone have an idea on how many additional turns the adjustment has post limiter removal?
eric_ssi
ArboristSite Lurker
MS201T Customer Appreciation Mod
Just 'tuned up' a customer's saw. I hope he likes it now.
Just 'tuned up' a customer's saw. I hope he likes it now.
Ms201
For tuning follow the advice of Joe Kidd in posts 91 & 93. On my saw the limiter kicks in at 13,300, & it is way too rich at that setting. With proper tuning in the wood my saw is bouncing off of the limiter with no load. I can only guess that the no load RPM would be in the neighborhood of 14,000-14,500 if the coil was unlimited. At 13,300 it is heavily 4-stroking in the wood & well below peak power.
For tuning follow the advice of Joe Kidd in posts 91 & 93. On my saw the limiter kicks in at 13,300, & it is way too rich at that setting. With proper tuning in the wood my saw is bouncing off of the limiter with no load. I can only guess that the no load RPM would be in the neighborhood of 14,000-14,500 if the coil was unlimited. At 13,300 it is heavily 4-stroking in the wood & well below peak power.
sir fig
New Member
201T Carb limiter
All you have to do is drill out the limiting pin in the carb body. The pin just rides in a groove in the limit cap. If you leave the limit cap on the jet needle it will keep tension on the needle and will not vibrate loose. You can then use a screwdriver for adjusting. Has anyone tried drilling the muffler at an angle so you will not have to cut the grill on the side of the saw??
Bill
All you have to do is drill out the limiting pin in the carb body. The pin just rides in a groove in the limit cap. If you leave the limit cap on the jet needle it will keep tension on the needle and will not vibrate loose. You can then use a screwdriver for adjusting. Has anyone tried drilling the muffler at an angle so you will not have to cut the grill on the side of the saw??
Bill
eric_ssi
ArboristSite Lurker
201 H needle
When my customer first reported that his 201's performance was lack-lustre, I drilled-out the limit stop for the H needle, and fattened 'er up a bit. The puck that sits on the needle itself remained in place, and permitted use of the trusty orange slot-screwdriver for adjusting.
Once that puck vanished, I found this Torx T8 screwdriver worked nicely. I marked an arrow on the handle to improve accuracy.
I drilled the muffler as shown by Brad. I don't see how drilling on angle would direct the gases up and over the plastics.
When my customer first reported that his 201's performance was lack-lustre, I drilled-out the limit stop for the H needle, and fattened 'er up a bit. The puck that sits on the needle itself remained in place, and permitted use of the trusty orange slot-screwdriver for adjusting.
Once that puck vanished, I found this Torx T8 screwdriver worked nicely. I marked an arrow on the handle to improve accuracy.
I drilled the muffler as shown by Brad. I don't see how drilling on angle would direct the gases up and over the plastics.
It's sheet metal. That won't work.
porsche965
Addicted to ArboristSite
No one could talk me out of my Snelled 201T, not even for the price of a NOS 200T. Not the way this runs! :msp_smile:
