More chipper stuff, Bandit 250XP disc refresh

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tree MDS
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View attachment 227539View attachment 227540View attachment 227541

First pic is the weld before grinding. Ended up using a grinder and carbide burr on a die grinder to finish.

Looks good man!!

I dropped mine off at the dealer yesterday to have the disk and slot in the lower slide box welded up. The mechanic seemed like a flake, but hopefully it comes out alright. I'm thinking I should have just went with a good welder. Oh well, I'm sure it'll be better than it was. Time to get this #### done and get back to workie!!
 
swyman

swyman

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One remaining issue

View attachment 227557

I also found this while working onit. This pic is taken from the top of where the knives and anvil meet. The worn piece in the pic is a square bar welded horizontal above the anvil. This should be where my small sticks pass through. Chipper does a very nice chip job but when I put in a lot of small twigs, some get through and I believe this to be the cause. Would have to pull the wheel to fix so maybe next winter! I don't think you will be able to see this without the chute base being off.
 
BlackOakTreeServ

BlackOakTreeServ

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Fine job swyman, looks like you got it filled in and ground down flush, should be back to normal, no balance problem, heck all that wear would start to cause a balance problem, you just got it back to normal.
 
2treeornot2tree

2treeornot2tree

Dont cry, just do it
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I was changing my chipper knifes today, and i was wrong about it not wearing. Mine is worn, but not nearly to the bolts. It has 2600 hrs on it. Here some pics.

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husabud

husabud

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The more I look at these pics, the more I see the flaw. You have a huge mass turning at extreme velocity thus chipping a solid object against a plane that is perpendicular to th knife. WTF is that all about? Wouldn't it make sense to have the area where the wheel meets the chip at a somewhat equal angle if not just close?
Now that I think of it I haven't looked this closely at my wheel in a couple months. The time has come.
 
swyman

swyman

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Alopa is right guys, just take off the top chute so you can lay a flat bead and weld stringers till it builds up past the original flat. It will take a 6" grinding wheel minimum. I don't think a 4 1/2" will get ya in deep enough. Your wire welder will do the trick to, just crank the heat and lay beads. May not wear as well but will still take along time to wear down. C'mon Spicoli, I know your dad has an ultimate set of tools, you can fix it!
 
tree MDS
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That has a nasty little hook don't it. You going to weld it?

Notice how the bolts are already exposed on the morbarks. That's what my dealer was was saying when I said I was concerned about the ones that are part exposed on mine (looks just like yours did). I think they're gonna just do like you did.. the mechanic only said two or three hours @ 75 an hour, so not too bad on that part.
 
swyman

swyman

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Notice how the bolts are already exposed on the morbarks. That's what my dealer was was saying when I said I was concerned about the ones that are part exposed on mine (looks just like yours did). I think they're gonna just do like you did.. the mechanic only said two or three hours @ 75 an hour, so not too bad on that part.

I don't think the exposed nuts hurt a thing. Nothing appears to hit them or the treads would be messed up. Good deal on the repair!
 
Eq Broker
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My biggest concern would be that the knife is losing support and could break creating more damage. We all know what happens when metal goes through a machine. The same thing happens to anvils as the wood chips will erode the disc and the anvil. Anvils should be changed or flipped around 500-600 hours. Isn't it amazing how wood erodes steel.
 
swyman

swyman

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My biggest concern would be that the knife is losing support and could break creating more damage. We all know what happens when metal goes through a machine. The same thing happens to anvils as the wood chips will erode the disc and the anvil. Anvils should be changed or flipped around 500-600 hours. Isn't it amazing how wood erodes steel.

I'm amazed what water does to rock! Nature is the ultimate force.
 

CUCV

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I've filled in the worn pockets on two of my chippers, they both ran smoother after the pockets were put back to there original state. Thought it might be worth having it balanced but didn't feel it was worth the $500. I used a 6", 7" and electric die grinder to get the corners cleaned up after welding.
 
swyman

swyman

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i've filled in the worn pockets on two of my chippers, they both ran smoother after the pockets were put back to there original state. Thought it might be worth having it balanced but didn't feel it was worth the $500. I used a 6", 7" and electric die grinder to get the corners cleaned up after welding.

x2
 
woody harding

woody harding

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Hello I am a brand new member and have this same worn cutter wheel problem with my 99 250 bandit its been clogging up and material gets jammed in the outer blades. I tried to run a search in the archives of this site ..I must be doing something wrong as most any search (250 bandit }
comes up with no results. It my thinking that the badly worn cutter wheel is causing the clogging problem. I have good sharp blades and a tight set clearance with the anvil. The anvil has the right edge but it is worn so that its time for a new one as it cannot be adjusted in anymore being to short after many re- serfacings. The worn area is just as the other member describe..that is its getting close the the cutter blade bolts.
 

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