Ms 241c Picco b & c issues

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Everett Phillipston

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image.jpg image.jpg Just picked up a 241c (mtronic hardly used, $100!) here with a drum that says 1143/00 A PICCO Z6. The PO had a 16” 3005 mount .325 bar on it but had no chain. He threw a bunch of 325 chains in but none of them work with this 6 tooth Picco spur. Is it because it’s a 375? These 325 chains definitely do not line up right

And no it’s not stolen.
 

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How about this, my piston stop tool (stihl) doesn’t fit it the plug hole...diameter is smaller than the tool. I’m not a fan of stuffing **** down the cylinder...other tricks to stop the motor from turning so I can get this clutch off?
 
How about this, my piston stop tool (stihl) doesn’t fit it the plug hole...diameter is smaller than the tool. I’m not a fan of stuffing **** down the cylinder...other tricks to stop the motor from turning so I can get this clutch off?

Soft nylon rope provides a safe piston stop. I would never use one of the screw in kind. I have a loop of 1/4" nylon rope with a knot. The loop of rope goes into the spark plug hole (knot stays out) with the PISTON JUST ABOVE THE UPPER EDGE OF THE EXHAUST PORT. This way no loose ends of rope are in the cylinder and nothing gets pinched between piston and exhaust port.
 
251 clutch.jpg
I’m trying to take the clutch off. It’s threaded.
Why do you need to remove the clutch? The rim drive kit pictured in post 7 above can be swapped for a spur drum. There is a 6 tooth spur 3/8 picco, .325 7 tooth spur, the mini spline kit shown above and an Oregon rim drive kit that uses the small splined rims as opposed to the mini spline Stihl ones. All can be switched back and forth without removing the clutch. Not sure how the service manual says to take it off if you really want to. There is probably a stop that fits in the spark plug hole. I put a screen shot of the 251 service manual, pretty sure it has a tiny plug thread.
 
My preferred clutch removal tool kids an impact gun. Usually cordless has plenty of oomph. Just leave the plug in and turn the clutch (the correct direction) against the compression. Works great.
 
This poor bastahd PO even took this thing to a dealer and they didn’t even catch on...I took one look at it and I was like...this ain’t right
What about that bar? Is a 3005 intended to work on the 241? In my experience the 3005 is the consumer saw bar mount and the 3003 is for pro saws.
 
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Why do you need to remove the clutch? The rim drive kit pictured in post 7 above can be swapped for a spur drum. There is a 6 tooth spur 3/8 picco, .325 7 tooth spur, the mini spline kit shown above and an Oregon rim drive kit that uses the small splined rims as opposed to the mini spline Stihl ones. All can be switched back and forth without removing the clutch. Not sure how the service manual says to take it off if you really want to. There is probably a stop that fits in the spark plug hole. I put a screen shot of the 251 service manual, pretty sure it has a tiny plug thread.
I want to clean this thing and there’s crud up behind the clutch. I like to be thorough with a new saw and see what I can see
 
How about this, my piston stop tool (stihl) doesn’t fit it the plug hole...diameter is smaller than the tool. I’m not a fan of stuffing **** down the cylinder...other tricks to stop the motor from turning so I can get this clutch off?
Have you tried pulling the muffler off and inserting a wood or plastic block into the exhaust port over the cylinder? I found this to be a much easier & very effective way on my MS 290.
 
Rope down the spark plug hole. I've never had a problem doing it that way. Just watch that you don't catch it in a port. You get a bit of give with the rope, so it feels weird with a wrench, but it works. I don't like using impact wrenches on cranks, unless I have no choice. Some multi cylinder 2 stroke cranks can be knocked out of time, so it's a habit I've not gotten into. Bearing mfgs say that impacts can brinell the rod bearings/races as well. Unlikely I'm sure, but again, it's something I try not to do. A few times, I've had flywheels stuck so tightly, that I had to impact the puller, but this was on large 3 cylinder PWC engines.

As for bar/chains...that saw was designed to run 3/8P chain. Don't ruin it with .325. 63PS will make it cut like a hot knife. Since you already have the 6T spur, you could just run that for now, on a new bar/chain. I run a 16" Stihl E Light bar with 63PS 55DL chain.
 

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