Ms 250 seams to run a little hot

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

merc_man

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Messages
1,557
Reaction score
1,650
Location
ontario
Just picked up a stihl ms 250. Went over it this am cleaned it sharpened chain blew out all saw dust i could checked piston cylinder all good.

Took it out to bush to try and after 5-10 mins of running it seems to get hot. When i let off throttle ot would stall sometimes and a little smoke came out around cylinder cover. Let it cool and run a few mins and hot again so **** ot down and used other saw. Any idea why its so hot.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
 
I wonder about the exhause. It seems to be quite restricted i thought. Was gonna try opening it up and retuning it.

Also never seen a carb limiter with a roll pin to stop. Do i juat pull roll pin?

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
 
Check the spark arrestor screen. And are you also running 89+ octane gas. I bought mine in October and the dealer told me, he would rather see me run super unleaded with ethanol and Sthil Ultra HP oil. Than running regular unleaded non ethanol because the lower octane causes the engine to run hotter. Low octane gas also will void warranty. Per the manual . So I found non ethanol 89 and use Sthil Ultra HP. At a 50:1 mix. No overheating here. Also factory carb adjustment is 1\4 for the low adjustment. 3\4 for the high. Try these suggestions and see if it helps. And a Stihl RS .325 Chain will make them cut like a Raped wildcat. Also let it idel for at least 15 seconds before shutdown to expell the excess heat.
 
Turn out the high side so it 4 strokes out of the cut and cleans up in the cut. it will run cooler and make better power. 87 shouldn't hurt that saw lean tuning on the high side will make it run hot and your low side sounds like it is to rich.
those saws cut faster with 3/8lp chain anyway been there done that.
 
I run high test gas from canadian tire or petro, its supposed to be ethnol free. I wanna tune high side richer but thers a roll pin the stops it from turning. Im guessing just pull the roll pin out? It has 325 chisle chain on it and seems to work quite well with it.
And yes i let anything with a motor idle down. It drives my wife nuts when i drive cause i will park then let truck idle for min. Or so. Lol

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
 
How far out from full clockwise to counter clockwise are you turning before it hits the stop. And don't try and pull the pins. If you pull to hard with the needles adjusted out you may bend them, or bugger the threads in the carb. I've heard of persons nipping them off with cutters. Or cutting them off with a Dreamel tool, gas removed of course. Run 89+ gas my dealer is a Gold Wrench dealer and has been in business since the 1970's. The advise he gave me is solid as stone.
 
How far out from full clockwise to counter clockwise are you turning before it hits the stop. And don't try and pull the pins. If you pull to hard with the needles adjusted out you may bend them, or bugger the threads in the carb. I've heard of persons nipping them off with cutters. Or cutting them off with a Dreamel tool, gas removed of course. Run 89+ gas my dealer is a Gold Wrench dealer and has been in business since the 1970's. The advise he gave me is solid as stone.
It only turns about half a turn each way till it hit the little roll pin beside to high speed jet.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
 
drill out the roll pin.
ya i will try gwtting it out mabe tomorrow if i have time. Then once i gwt it out i can open the muffler up and retune.

I figured it would just pull out but if you guys think not will try to cut it with dremmel.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
 
or go to the stihl dealer and pick up a walbro wt 215 i think they are 30$ and fully adjustable.
 
Many saws came out running lean and on the hot side from the factory I believe to meet emissions. Need to richen that fuel mixture highly likely and the muffler mod is a big improvement. Make sure your muffler is tight and not leaking as that will cause heat problems even more so.
 
I just had overheating issues with a 028AV which overheated and seized. Instead of guessing if it was going to overheat again I took my 3M infrared thermometer and while the saw was into a full bar cut in a green pine log I checked the jug temp and it started heating fast and was going towards 400 when I backed out of the cut to let it cool down, some other saws (Homelites) were maxing at 380 and not getting to 380 as rapidly as the 028. I backed out the H jet 1/2 turn (was setting at 1 1/4 and went to 1 3/4 and could tell the saw was 4 cycling little bit when throttled, put it too the log full bar cut with a super aggressive chain and the engine loaded heavy. The saw when first started cutting momentarily gurgled for about 2 seconds, but still had good power and went into the cut good when loaded and the temp rose slower and maxed out around 360-380 taking the temp readings on the piston jug. I was by myself and would remove the saw from the cut and quickly take the temp. It would be easier to have a helper monitor the piston jug temp while a operator was running the saw.
The infrared thermometer allowed me to instantly monitor the temp and not overheat the saw while testing and proved the saws issue was that it was running too lean and not just guessing and hoping for the best.
I've had the 3M thermometer for several years and I use it for testing automotive engines, block temps, cylinder exhaust temps to find weak cylinders, bearing temps, air conditioning temps, temperatures of electrical connections in breaker boxs. Instant read. Cost about $60 when new.
 
I just had overheating issues with a 028AV which overheated and seized. Instead of guessing if it was going to overheat again I took my 3M infrared thermometer and while the saw was into a full bar cut in a green pine log I checked the jug temp and it started heating fast and was going towards 400 when I backed out of the cut to let it cool down, some other saws (Homelites) were maxing at 380 and not getting to 380 as rapidly as the 028. I backed out the H jet 1/2 turn (was setting at 1 1/4 and went to 1 3/4 and could tell the saw was 4 cycling little bit when throttled, put it too the log full bar cut with a super aggressive chain and the engine loaded heavy. The saw when first started cutting momentarily gurgled for about 2 seconds, but still had good power and went into the cut good when loaded and the temp rose slower and maxed out around 360-380 taking the temp readings on the piston jug. I was by myself and would remove the saw from the cut and quickly take the temp. It would be easier to have a helper monitor the piston jug temp while a operator was running the saw.
The infrared thermometer allowed me to instantly monitor the temp and not overheat the saw while testing and proved the saws issue was that it was running too lean and not just guessing and hoping for the best.
I've had the 3M thermometer for several years and I use it for testing automotive engines, block temps, cylinder exhaust temps to find weak cylinders, bearing temps, air conditioning temps, temperatures of electrical connections in breaker boxs. Instant read. Cost about $60 when new.
Thats a good idea. I got one on sail for 20 reg 100. Think i will take it with me and check. But will open exhaust first and rerune.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
 
But this saw floods easily. Have you tried cleaning the carb. Screw that . Get some seafoam pour a cap full or 1 1\2 in the empty tank . Then a slight splash of Stihl Ultra HP oil. Then fill it with mix. Or better Motomix. Clean the spark arrestor screen before you start then after. This may clean any carbon build up that saw had seen using cheap a!! Gas or oil.
 
Post Script it will most likely throw off some smoke doing this. Make sure to add that Ultra HP oil. As a saftey catch. A little heavy with it won't hurt in that splash. This oil helped clean my Poulan Pros up and they run like new.
 
What do you mean by a roll pin? take a snap I can not find a ,250 carb with a roll pin, red plastic limiters yes but no pin from what I can see.
 
What do you mean by a roll pin? take a snap I can not find a ,250 carb with a roll pin, red plastic limiters yes but no pin from what I can see.
Will take a pic in am.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
 
What do you mean by a roll pin? take a snap I can not find a ,250 carb with a roll pin, red plastic limiters yes but no pin from what I can see.
367483f56ab41340cf94e49d5bd35cff.jpg

What do you mean by a roll pin? take a snap I can not find a ,250 carb with a roll pin, red plastic limiters yes but no pin from what I can see.


Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
 
14990fb0c6f6be9aa7b9e82dd02d7f43.jpg

Heres the role pin. Juat pulled it out now i can tune it.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Back
Top