MS 660 bought off ebay

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TrustintheLord

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My first post here, bear with me?

My Mom bought this (saw which has a MS 660 sticker on it, (either a Hutzl or Farmtec stihl clone job) for me back in May. It was her last large purchase gift for me as she passed away in mid July. The ebay seller was and is horrible on communication, and is a repeat liar. Use caution with someone selling on ebay by the ID of advanv. This guy claims he is a disabled vet. He also claimed to have test run the saw for 30 minutes prior to selling. Yet the gas tank had no gas smell or residue. This was a newly assembled saw.

We got the saw to hopefully cut up a large live oak we had cut down also in May. I was going to use this chainsaw with a chainsaw mill and make some slabs.
Well I have finally got the saw out more and did some test running and cutting. It has a 36 inch bar and chain. One chain is ripping and one is crosscut.
My last test run was on a very large oak 42" diameter crosscut section (with proper chain on) The saw bogged down a lot, even with me rocking the saw and not taking a full bite, then quit. I could not get it to restart, it was a very warm or hot engine. The chain was oiled and not too tight as well.

I also noticed at times the chain was loose on the bar, and other times it was snug. Almost like the crankshaft is bent?

2 days later, (yesterday) I looked the saw over, checked out spark plug, put it back together and got it to fire right up. I ran it at various speeds but not cutting or under load and other than a very low idle, all seemed okay.

Questions:
1 What would make the chain loose, then snug again on the bar without doing any adjusting on the bar? (I tightened down the 2 bar clamping nuts with the end of the bar elevated.)

2 The idle is real slow/low, and when the saw got hot, the engine quit. Is there an adjustment I can do?
 
1 the chain getting hot then cooling down
2 yes you can the screw that adjust the idle but I would look at a YouTube vid on how to adjust a chainsaw carburetor

Also what mix are you using
 
Chain loose, then tight.
Worn out sprocket can contribute. The chain is loose, when it's deep into the sprocket. And tight, when it climbs up on the shoulders.
Nate
 
Check the AM China sprocket is symmetrical, some have been know to machined poorly. Adjust the idle by turning LA screw CW however much is needed, being you have asked this question it may be an idea to get someone to tune your saw, the L speed might need adjustment. I think it needs a proper tune this saw, you kinda wanna get this right if your about to bury a 42"b/c or rip slabs. I would love to see the 'rocking' technique...is that a bit like using a hand saw but with a chainsaw to help it cut? :laugh: Seriously though before you get into trouble, that saw needs tuning and a bit of extra oil.
 
1 the chain getting hot then cooling down
2 yes you can the screw that adjust the idle but I would look at a YouTube vid on how to adjust a chainsaw carburetor

Also what mix are you using

50:1 Fuel:Oil ratio

This is a new saw, so worn out sprocket can be ruled out, although a bad sprocket could be the case so will check that further. Hot chain and bar? I doubt it as I only ran into that log down about 10 inches.

CR888, yes to that rocking motion. I've seen others do that as well with a chainsaw, so scratching my head at why you seem to find that odd....Thanks for the responses all!
 
50:1 Fuel:Oil ratio

This is a new saw, so worn out sprocket can be ruled out, although a bad sprocket could be the case so will check that further. Hot chain and bar? I doubt it as I only ran into that log down about 10 inches.

CR888, yes to that rocking motion. I've seen others do that as well with a chainsaw, so scratching my head at why you seem to find that odd....Thanks for the responses all!
For that saw I would go 40-1 or even better 32-1, chains do stretch when there new and I would also but your Oiler to max flow
 
Questions:
1 What would make the chain loose, then snug again on the bar without doing any adjusting on the bar? (I tightened down the 2 bar clamping nuts with the end of the bar elevated.)

I went thru this earlier this year with a neighbors saw. Asked this forum and got the entire gambit of suggestions that were in contradiction to my description of the saw, the steps I took, etc.

Basically nobody knows, or nobody here knows.

For my neighbor the problem seems to have gone away, or I haven't heard anything since spending an hour with it trying different chains, bars, saw being hot or cold, and the saw being new. The funniest suggestion was that in removing the chains 6 or more times, I must have each time mounted the chain backwards. Great Help, Thanks! :rolleyes:
 
I would second the recommendation that you get with someone who knows saw tuning and have them work with you on getting that saw set up right. I would also second running a greater oil ratio such as 40:1 or even 32:1 on a chinese saw. Big oak trees can stress your new saw to the max. And a little milling will quickly destroy a saw that was potentially tuned too lean.
 
What neck of the Earth are you in? We've loads of friendly folks here on AS that are more than willing to help a man out.
Down in Mississippi, near Raleigh.

(USA of course.)

Meanwhile my brand new Husqvarna Rancher 460 arrived with 24 in bar n chain, last night.
 
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