MS280 (with IEM) Newbie Questions

[them0nk]

I've been browsing and searching around a bit and still haven't really found all the answers to questions i've had with this saw...

One of them would be max bar length... i never really thought i'd need more than the 20" bar already on it. In my area the forestry service brought down a HUGE amount of logs from the mountains, they're all pine, cedar, doug firs, etc. Some of them are pretty massive greater than 40" in diameter. I actually pulled off cutting some of the 36-40ish inch ones with my 20" bar (of course i quickly abandoned that idea because apparently i can't really cut perfectly straight all the way around). While i was there a friend of mine (who actually knows nothing about saws, but knows other tree "professionals") said that you can put a bigger bar on saws than whats recommended. To me it somewhat makes sense... of course i'd think the saw could that way but it seems like it would probably bog down more, etc. Is this a bad idea to do?

Which brings me to the next question i had... this "Muffler mod" stuff. I've see some pictures of a MS280 with it done with a brief description and wondered how much of an improvement this would bring, etc. And what the downside to doing one would be... I'm sure voiding the warranty would be one of them, but what other effects? more pollution? Also any tips or better guides on how to do one would be greatly appreciated.

Another question i had was the chain... i'm pretty sure this is going to be the one that people are going to flame me for not finding somewhere on the forum... I have 3 stock chains... I've seen carbide tipped ones, I know stihl themselves have multiple types of chains... but i wondered which kind is best for dry wood -vs- wet wood, hardwoods, etc. The ones i have now are anti-kick back chains, which i read someone's comment about them basically being junk. This is actually what got my thinker going. The kickback aspect of the saw is an inherent risk, and personally when I cut with my saw I know there is enough power to throw it at me... so i make sure to pay attention AT ALL TIMES and not bury the tip into anything, or try to cut too deep into a large tree where it could run itself out of there... --- what i'm basically shooting for here is a type of chain that will basically make a quicker cut, etc. I'd probably only plan on putting this chain on the 20" bar because i think it will eat up more power than the anti-kick chains.

Air filter clogging? i've read on the forums about the ms280 air filter clogging and causing problems - which happened to me... is there a better type of filter out there for them that doesn't clog AS often... cutting dry wood seems to be really hard on my saw... between the air filter clogging and the chain dulling faster it seems... i just wondered if there is a better way...

Winter/Summer switch... from what i read in the manual it's supposed to be only used in LOW temps... what about close to those "low" temps and high elevation (5800 feet) - my saw seemed to run like a champ when i finally decided to switch it to the winter operation after 1/2 a day of cutting( temps were maybe 55-65 F... I just REALLY don't want to mess up my saw... This one has to last for a LONG time...

The most newbie question of all is going to be about the low end (i guess it's called) setting screw... is there a "default" way of adjusting it? my saw REALLY pissed me off this last weekend because it'd either die RIGHT BEFORE i'd go to make a cut, or right when i'd hit the gas... which i think was caused by the air filter... but i adjusted the hell out of that screw throughout the weekend. I still have bruises on my inner quads from starting the saw with the handle between my legs... lol.

Lastly, and here is one that is probably debated all day long on here... my neighbor uses used car oil for his chain oil... is this a totally bad idea? Other than the obvious void your warranty issues... use car oil is free... and seems like a good way to at least re-use something that would just get given to autozone anyways. This guy has a 200ish dollar poulan 16 incher... that he really doesn't care about it seems. I paid (yes really and i know i got jacked on this deal) 550ish with tax on my MS280 (new), and would HATE to fork it up.

To anyone that read this, thank you... you're a trooper... and sorry about being a newbie with questions (i'm a member on a ton of other forums and know how it is to be sitting in your seat reading the same stupid questions over and over...). So don't flame me too much, and i'd greatly appreciate any input about these poderances...

the stihl link for my saw is: http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS280.html for any reference needed

thank you for your time,

the :newbie:

 

[Man of $tihl]

you can use a longer bar. but i would use skip chain instead of full comp. and square ground chain is the fastest cutting chain. but harder to sharpen. muffler mods are better for your saw than a stock muffler. as long as your carb is set right.

 

[Man of $tihl]

and i would not put used oil in my saw. its dirty and is not tacky like bar oil.

 

[Man of $tihl]

to set your carb. turn your L screw in until it is lightly seated. then turn it out 1 full turn. that will get you close.

 

[them0nk]

Thank you for your reply!

I didn't think the used motor oil was a good idea... and it did look thinner than bar oil....

I think i saw a skip chain from stihl as well...

is there a better place to buy bars/chains then from a stihl dealer, etc?

 

[Man of $tihl]

i buy most of my chains from baileys. they have a huge selection and there cheap. even after shipping. there a sponsor on AS.

 

[nate cutter]

Learn to sharpen it will take a while but worth the work. I would stay with the safety chain if you think your saw has too much kick back now. This site is great but don't let them talk you into a big saw to quickly.

 

[them0nk]

my neighbor has tried to talk me into getting a sharpener but i haven't made that plunge yet.

as of yet i haven't had the saw do anything *crazy* on me... i do want to try a none no-kick back chain that will cut quicker... if it starts to get too hard to handle i'll quickly ditch that idea... haha

turn the L screw clockwise or counter clockwise?

does muffler modding kill the spark arrestor? i remember when i got my wood cutting permit they said something about saws without spark arrestors... and i just wondered about that... i'm really interested in (edit) doing a/the muffler mod to my saw to get the most out of it...

 

[them0nk]

Also... can 3/8 chain go on this saw? (require changing sprocket or something?)

i'm looking over some chains on different websites... somewhat confusing because i'm a ::newbie:: but i know the chain i have now is the OILOMATIC® STIHL RAPID™ Micro™ Comfort 3 (RMC3) - does the longer bar need to be an "OILMATIC" bar... or can one from lets say oregon work... i see some that say they're compatible with the MS280... but i'm still a little at a loss here... does *any* .325 / .063 chain work? does the bar and chain have to match for lubing purposes? Ugh i hate being a noob.

for a 20 inch bar: http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+22LPX81&catID=11727 ?

32" bar setup: (lol it actually says 2 things that caught my attention it has a skiptooth chain, and lists it as compatible with the ms280)

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=WBC+32+SS50&catID=11710

what do you guys think of these chains? does anyone have a specific chain they like? --- for now i'm looking for a kick ass chain for the 20 inch bar... the 100 bucks for the 32inch bar and chain will be a later purchase :-/ (i want to also wait till i do the muffler mod before increasing bar size)

oh yeah... there is a really good reason i bought THAT stihl... it was about timing (needed it like NOW) and power to weight for me... i'm a pretty small dude... a whole 165 lbs. carrying around a big old heavy chainsaw just didn't sit right in my head. i wont be going bigger anytime in the near future.

when i was out cutting firewood last weekend i felt trumped by this guy with a stihl MS310 with a Huge bar on it... he was cutting the logs no one was touching. then i looked it up... the ms310 at 59 cc/4.0 bhp at 13 lbs ---- the ms280 is 54.7 cc and 3.6 bhp and 11.7 lbs... to me that isn't that huge of a difference (coming from the guy that barely knows anything about saws). is that little bit of difference going to limit me from rocking that 30 something inch bar he had on his? (i'm sure i wont win any speed cutting comps with it but it'll get the job done right?)

funny thing is... the tree service guy i know TOLD me to get the 310 lol... then i watched them overheat it, and then overheat the 600 dollar top handle stihl when they cut a tree down that was leaning on my house... (30 inch diameter cedar tree...) --- i cut up AT LEAST 8 full logs this last weekend and i couldn't even tell my 280 got hot at all... but i swear it's not running right.

this is what happens when you find a new fav. beer (i hated anything miller... then i tried miller high life...)

 

[Man of $tihl]

turn the L screw clockwise until it is lightly seated. then turn it counter clockwise one full turn. i forgot about you californians and your spark arrestor laws. here, my muffler mod is adding a second port by drilling a nickle sized hole in my muffler then they sell dual port ears and spark arrestor to screw over your new hole. you leave your original hole alone. i dual port all my saws. your supposed to get a 15 to 20% power increase. you have to adjust your H screw though or you will run your saw too lean and melt your piston and cylinder.:bang: i have a stihl 026 pro thats 49cc and a 16 inch bar with 3\8 chain and it pulls it just fine. i dont like the antikick stuff or .325 chain. 3\8 cuts faster.:chainsawguy:

 

[oscar4883]

One thing to remember when choosing a bar is that while a certain size may fit on your saw, due to the mounting pattern, it will not be able to run it well. Take the cc's and divide them by 3. That will get you a close, and very general idea of the bar length you will be able to run well. Cutting conditions, saw modifications, and operator preference all factor in as well. An example being that the 32in. bar on my 660 will fit on my 026, but it will not run it very well to say the least. Most of the Stihl saws share the same mounting pattern.

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

I wouldn't use motor oil. I wouldn't use anything larger than 20" on a 280 at all. I won't even use a 20" on my 310. If you are looking at using a 25" and up for a decent amount of cutting you should consider a 70cc saw.

 

[them0nk]

20" on a 310.... now i'm REALLY confused... i saw THAT saw (310) with at least a 30 inch bar cutting huge rounds... it wasn't going super fast but it got it done... and by Huge i mean mid level to my chest high rounds (LOL of course the guys who cut it abandoned the rounds there because they couldnt get them in the truck hahaha...) ... i'm definitely willing to try a 28-32 inch bar with a skip chain as said by others... it wont go fast but would probably get the job done... i'm not in the forest industry and this is literally just for firewood purposes... i'm not even allowed to cut down trees.

er... there is no adjustment supposedly on the high end for the ms280 - it has IEM (but maybe there is one hidden....)

i really can't find the right stuff i need to change to 3/8 pitch... i think i'm just confused because i think i need 2 parts.... the sprocket and the clutch assembly... then i'd need a .325 sprocket too if i wanted to keep the bar/chains i have as being usable, with less change out...

looking at this:
http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=DSS 260&catID=10721

i get confused because there is husky parts there... i'm guessing i need the Oregon Power Mate Rim & Drum System, the Oregon Pro Spur Sprocket (3/8" x 7) (says husky but i'm only guessing it works cause it's listed ...?), and the bearing at the top... can anyone confirm this?

what is the difference between 7 and 8 teeth? or do i only have the option of one?

do you have a link to that dual port part thing you're talking about?

thank you all for you continuing input about this all!!!! you guys rock!

 

[oscar4883]

An 8 tooth sprocket will get you some more chain speed. Much easier to bog most saws with an 8 also. You do not want an 8 at all. Stick with a 7. If you do convert to 3/8 maybe you can find someone to borrow a 28-32 in set-up from. That way you can run it and see what you think. Running a 18-20 may be quicker in the end. More cuts may have to be made but it would be using the saw with a cutting attachment that it was designed to handle.

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

For 3/8 sprocket setup you want part #1121 007 1041 it is a 3/8-7 rim and sprocket kit from Stihl and then you can get a part# 0000 642 1236 which is a .325-7 rim so you can switch back. The biggest problem you will encounter trying to put that large of a b&c setup on a 280 is the oiler won't put out enough to lube a long bar.

 

[them0nk]

someone pm'd me about the oiler not putting out enough and i asked him the same question i'll ask here... is there a way to increase this?

i have access to a machine shop and personally could probably fabricate a part needed or at least draw it in inventor for the machine shop to make... (was a cnc machinist, manual lathe operator for 3 years before my 2 years long desk job i have now lol...)

i swear i bought the WRONG saw lol... there is all these cool parts (big bore kits, etc) for other saws just not this one /cry... i'll make it work ... i'll make it work... lol

 

[Man of $tihl]

if you dont have an H screw on your carb. you can not do a muffler mod. unless you were to put on a larger carb. and i think thats a little more than you want to get into. i think you need to buy a larger, professional size saw. the ms362 would not be much heavier than the one you already have.

 

[them0nk]

the muffler mod has been done on the ms280... but my fear is what the IEM will do with the extra flow... read what this guy said happened when he did his... http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=58677

"It wanted to run 15k!!! I added some fuel and brought it down to 14.5k, where it was obviously 4 stroking a bit. Made some cuts and the saw cuts great. Runs the exact same, but with more power everywhere. Little sucker screams now."

how did he adjust the rpm without a H adjustment... i PM'd the guy days ago without a response - maybe his 280 doesn't have iem? - or is there another adjustment that limits rpm?

i wonder if making the hole bigger but not as much as he did... would be a little better...

i'm only guessing but the ms362 would have been more money, which is probably why i didn't go with a pro-line saw... i can't find a price anywhere on the net for it :-/

one thing i'm noticing about stihl is the annoyance of no online sales and stuff like that... i'm obviously the type that LIKES to buy stuff online because you normally get a better deal on it. the explanation from stihl about that is they "Require" the distributor to physically show you how to start it, etc. bleh w/e... if someone is going to go drop 600+ dollars on a pro-line saw... they already know what they're doing with it. Not to mention not all homeowners that want a quality saw can take time off to go to a stihl dealer to pick something up like that... and all the places that sell stihl saws near me are closed on weekends...

i can't even find the stihl branded chain i want online but that might be because i'm blind/stupid haha. the "OILOMATIC® STIHL RAPID™ Super Comfort (RSC)"

if i could trade in my ms280 for something better i probably would, but that wont happen... i'm starting to figure out that buying something with IEM was a bad idea... it limits your control... i'm re-figuring out that everything i do, i tinker with to try to make it better and having something that "auto" does anything always turns out bad.

"Automatic bar and chain lube" Bad (for the reason there is no adjustment or tinkerer way to increase it)
"Intelligent Engine Management" Bad

you're definitely right about the ms362 that would have been a kick-ass saw. and i probably couldn't have spent a whole 100 bucks more and got one if i had the money at the time... i think my receipt on the 280 was something like 550-580 with tax... maybe i can sell my 280 for like 300 bucks (pfft yeah right) and put in the rest for a 362 someday.

that 362 even has a higher recommended bar length so i don't doubt a 32" bar would have as much problems as the 280 :-/

my saw already feels cheesy, and i'm not even gonna start cutting with it till tomorrow. Bleh.

 

[MacLaren]

I always wanted one of those 280's. Just never could find one at the time. Do you like how it runs?

 

[Anthony_Va.]

A 280 is a pretty good running saw. I like it alot better than the 290.

The IEM thing, I hear that you can mod the muffler and it will tune itself. Thats pretty much whats it's there for. Kinda like your ECU in your vehicle. Don't hold me to it, but I have read on here about people modding it and running it with no problems.