splitpost
Nothing but 32:1
What was wrong with the oem cylinder, maybe look at putting it back on with a meteor piston
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Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk
What was wrong with the oem cylinder, maybe look at putting it back on with a meteor piston
Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk
Ran over it with a Bobcat. Smashed it.
When the cylinder got smashed did it damage the cases in any way where the cylinder bolts down on? You have posted that there was an air leak at the cylinder base with the AM one bolted on.
Meteor pistons are ok, the rings were good quality but some now are too hardened, the wrist pin too heavy and the circlips too soft. Better to use an OEM wrist pin and circlips in the Meteor piston.
OEM is the best way to go on the cylinder. Maybe find a used one?which would mean waiting about an hour for the local Stihl guy to figure out how to order what I need and then paying 3 prices. OEM is now last choice for me for that reason.
That is horrendous, way out of tolerance. You should be under .030" WITH a gasket.Ok guys I checked the squish. It wouldn’t even smash the solder. Took the gasket off and rechecked. I don’t have a digital caliper but it looks like around .040-.050 range. That is with zero gasket. Compression is now 118.
That will do it everytimeRan over it with a Bobcat. Smashed it.
Not that I can tell.
which would mean waiting about an hour for the local Stihl guy to figure out how to order what I need and then paying 3 prices. OEM is now last choice for me for that reason.
I am just wondering why the saw has an airleak at the crankcase to cylinder mount even with a gasket in between. I have mounted untold numbers of them with just a few thous smear of sealant and never had an airleak there.
5mm is about .020in. Wouldn't want less than that. But great newsUPDATE!! I re-examined the original cylinder. Turns out that just one of the cooling fins was broken and the muffler was smashed so bad that I had to cut it off. Other than that it looked ok. I installed and checked squish. Looks like about .5mm. I am getting a digital caliper tomorrow and will measure again. Compression was 150 and the best of all...no leaks at the base. I could only find one of the original rings so I will have to wait until my Caber rings come in before I fire her up. If they refund my money on the AF cylinder kit then all of this headache will actually end up saving me money as I will be using all original parts except for rings.
UPDATE!! I re-examined the original cylinder. Turns out that just one of the cooling fins was broken and the muffler was smashed so bad that I had to cut it off. Other than that it looked ok. I installed and checked squish. Looks like about .5mm. I am getting a digital caliper tomorrow and will measure again. Compression was 150 and the best of all...no leaks at the base. I could only find one of the original rings so I will have to wait until my Caber rings come in before I fire her up. If they refund my money on the AF cylinder kit then all of this headache will actually end up saving me money as I will be using all original parts except for rings.
Great news. Throw that thing together. I only install one ring anyway.
I've tested with both one and two rings. There is almost no affect on compression and it frees up several hundred RPMs due to less friction. It's for the same reason that I don't care for Caber F-Cast rings. They're MUCH stiffer.Really? I was wondering about that since it had 150 psi of compression with just the one ring. Do you put the one ring in the top slot or bottom, or does it matter?
Fixed it5mm is about .20in.
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