ms440 with a 8 pin and a 25 inch bar

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I would think, if it would work fine with an 8 pin sprocket in 25 inch wood, it would come with an 8 pin from the factory. Having said that, I recently put an 8 pin on my muffler modded 2171, just to see how it goes. I only made a couple cuts so far, because I'm trying to get other things done before the snow flies. My feeling is, it will help in softer and smaller diameter wood, but it will be better with the 7 pin in the big, hard stuff unless you baby it in the cut. Obviously, you lose torque, but you have to remember, the energy from the engine is still all there. You've just traded some torque for some speed. Work=force X distance, so you haven't actually changed the HP. There are guys on here that think a 24" bar is too much for 70cc's, then there are guys that will run full comp,.404, square ground chain on a 33" bar, with an 8 pin sprocket, on a 95cc saw (I know, I bought one set up like that). We have to find, and then accept reality.
 
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It depends on how much you want to be able lean on it or run aggressive chain.
 
I have tried a 8 on a 460 up here. On smaller stuff it is workable. Won't pull it good with a loaded bar. The 440 doesn't have the same torque as a 460, I would say that it would not work well. The 440's like to wind up pretty good, a 7T sprocket is perfect for that saw.
 
The only time I run an 8 on my 460 is when it wears the 18" bar. Firewood MONSTER :D
 
There is a trade-off between torque and chain speed. It will work if you feather it, but it will bog easier. You could run that setup with full skip, which would be good for noodling rounds (easiest way to cut wood). Less cutters, less torque required in the cut to keep them moving. I usually use an 8 pin on 20 inch and less on a 70cc saw, and with a 16 on a 60cc saw with full comp loops. They cut faster that way when thinning smaller trees in a stand or topping felled trees. Bucking semi-dry hardwood like oak or madrone I will use a 7 pin with most bars on a bigger saw though. It all depends on what and how you are cutting.
 
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I use an 8 pin with 25" on a Mastermind 660, don't think I'd want less power for that combo in Aussie wood, it really struggled with 8t 36" when I changed bar and forgot to put the 7t back on
 
8 pin on my 046 with a 25" bar works great in pine and Doug fir around here. I put the 7 pin on when running the 32" bar though.
 
I run an 8 pin with a 20" bar on my 460. When I put a 24" bar on, I go to a 7 pin. Stihl RMC chain on both bars.
 
On the trees in the PNW, using full skip square, it should be fine. Louisiana? Dunno.
Nah I tried I tried it on my 441 and a 20" bar and it would get hung up in the knots of the softest firs. Went back to a 7 pin and it is unstoppable.
 
Nah I tried I tried it on my 441 and a 20" bar and it would get hung up in the knots of the softest firs. Went back to a 7 pin and it is unstoppable.
Yeah, but that's a 441, never run one that felt as strong as a 44. I've run 8 tooth sprockets on 044/440s with 28" bars a lot. Have to keep your square ground chain sharp, can't run your rakers lower than .025. On the upside, you can just let the saw eat through the wood with very little pressure and let the chainspeed stay high. That setup can run fast... if you are conservative with your raker height and how hard you push the saw and if you are in softwoods. The 7 tooth is more forgiving for sure.

Should also be said that I very rarely run stock saws, so my view may be slanted a tad.
 

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