Been working on saws for 34 years and I never heard of this. Where did you get this info??????????My understanding is that during break in it is not great to have no back pressure at all when seating the rings.
Been working on saws for 34 years and I never heard of this. Where did you get this info??????????My understanding is that during break in it is not great to have no back pressure at all when seating the rings.
Honestly I thought I read it on here. Spent some time on here quietly researching when I started building my 046 some years ago. It did not make total sense to me at the time either because I bet most of the pressure the rings feel is on the compression stroke not when the spent gasses are leaving, but when it’s all leaving and the exaughst port window is open whatever pressure in the muffler is probably equal to what is on the rings at that time. Me not being a life long chainsaw nut I figured better safe than sorry and I made those plates. Knowing myself I probably did read it in more than one place if I put the effort into making those covers.Been working on saws for 34 years and I never heard of this. Where did you get this info??????????
Ohh I am. I had no use when building it, I just wanted it. $10 tag sale find. Had no idea what it was when I got it. Now I use it to cut stumps low before grinding them, something I do part time.Enjoy you saw.
yes,if the clutch spacer isn;t in placed and torqued it will leak !Keep in mind with the 1128 series saws you must have the clutch assembled and torqued to be able to pressure and vac test.
I was wondering the same exact thing. Didn’t make sense to me either. Hopefully they will explain.That I didn't know. At the same token, how can you check that seal for a leak if the clutch and all are in the way. Also how can those affect that test, when there is a snap ring on the crank, to keep the worm gear from contacting the seal???
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your gauge will leak down ,& if all other spots are good with the bubbleThat I didn't know. At the same token, how can you check that seal for a leak if the clutch and all are in the way. Also how can those affect that test, when there is a snap ring on the crank, to keep the worm gear from contacting the seal???
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Thanks guy. This had me wondering too.ssm1699 I think these guys have the 044 mixed up with the 046. The 044 has a sleeve that needs to be on and tightened down before the test. I don't think the 046 does. People are so anxious to help they sometimes get mixed up. Mike
You know. I’m not sure. But I’ve been using the metal tape for sheetmetal ductwork recently. Untested as of yet, I just started using it this winter but I figure it’s as good or better as the right stuff.Ok, so got the new clutch seal put in and it passes p&v tests. Got the oil pump, clutch and sprocket on. Just working on other thin HF s with it, til the new tank comes in. How important is the foil tape under the muffler on these saws??? I know that it seemed pretty important on the 660, but this saw looks like it has never had it. I have the foil that I can put on it, just being curious.
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My clone build is a famrtec. My threaded rod did have a solid bubble in the middle that stopped it. To answer your question mine sticks out the back about one thread. No more. I dropped some blue loctite on it from the outside on the back as well as covering the threads before install. I just didn’t want mine coming out with the air filter someday.How far does the stud stick out of the flange, that the air filter and cover mount to? The flange that I got is a farmertec flange, so the stud isn't mounted to it and it doesn't stop or bottom out when I put it in. So I was going to put some blue loctite on it and put it in at the length it should be. I can't test fint anything, as I don't have my tank or filter or anything needed to mount all that stuff. Just looking to work on little things, while I continue to wait for my tank and covers to come in.
Also, on another note, thinking of painting my recoil starter black and dyeing the orange plastics, black. I know that everyone uses rit dye for the plastics. What does everyone use for the recoil assembly, if they paint it? The parts I am wanting to change colors of, are AM parts. That is the only reason I am thinking of doing it.
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PS mine was for sure “flashy” as it appears it is a MIM I wouldn’t call them burrs. I cleaned it up with a dremel then a brass wire wheel. If you have plenty of time I would consider doing the same. I tried to change mine as little as possible and just clean it up, I figure it’s shaped just like that for a reason.My clone build is a famrtec. My threaded rod did have a solid bubble in the middle that stopped it. To answer your question mine sticks out the back about one thread. No more. I dropped some blue loctite on it from the outside on the back as well as covering the threads before install. I just didn’t want mine coming out with the air filter someday.
I know the flange is aluminum but I would consider using red loctite if yours doesn’t stop in the middle on its own, your probably never going to take it out, nor want it coming out.
Make it look how you want to I say. I did on my old girl, my genuine 046 with AM top end. Mostly just blasted the aluminum case and covers leaving a little white, then cleared em. Figured it wouldn’t scratch up so bad, look old, but be new.
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