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stihladdictt

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I recently built a ms 880 all stihl oem parts it is an older 880 so it has the 3 hole ignition and cast iron muffler I was wondering can I run the newer aluminum flywheel instead of the poly also where can I find a 3 hole ignition coil my dealer is telling me they are rare and hard to come by is there a ignition coil I can use that matches I already have the aluminum 880 flywheel also does it have the same timing as the poly or should I purchase a poly flywheel ?
 

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What's the backstory on "building" an MS 880? That's not a common saw to acquire, especially as parts. Professional crews may have a total of one saw in the whole company and they tend to not wear out due to sitting on the shelf whenever it's not absolutely needed. My experience is "everyone hates them." Even the big 660/661 is a monster the new guys want to run Week_1 and avoid starting Week_2. :dizzy:
 
What's the backstory on "building" an MS 880? That's not a common saw to acquire, especially as parts. Professional crews may have a total of one saw in the whole company and they tend to not wear out due to sitting on the shelf whenever it's not absolutely needed. My experience is "everyone hates them." Even the big 660/661 is a monster the new guys want to run Week_1 and avoid starting Week_2. :dizzy:
I live in California and we take down massive trees also I wanted to add it to my collection
 
The poly is more likely the newer one.
You should be able to set the two flywheels on top of each other and see if the magnets are in the same place relative to the key way. And, if there are differences that would affect clearance.
Unfortunately I only have the newer model ms880 flywheel thats aluminum part number 1124 400 1201 I’m wonder if I can use that flywheel instead of purchasing a poly flywheel
 
Unfortunately I only have the newer model ms880 flywheel thats aluminum part number 1124 400 1201 I’m wonder if I can use that flywheel instead of purchasing a poly flywheel
The info is on old threads on here but never hurts to refresh it. Weird thing is I search more accurately for specific topics on this site using Google than I do the site's internal search mechanism, which often gives me a million vaguely related things to the search words I used. The pre-2010 880 had a cast aluminum muffler, not cast iron. The flywheel was poly. Then they switched to a steel muffler and aluminum flywheel. There is definitely different timing of the flywheels, not sure they're compatible even with modification, but maybe. Way easier just to buy the correct 1124 400 1210, there are a million AM flywheels out there for the 088/early 880, and some OEM's on Ebay.
 
What's the backstory on "building" an MS 880? That's not a common saw to acquire, especially as parts. Professional crews may have a total of one saw in the whole company and they tend to not wear out due to sitting on the shelf whenever it's not absolutely needed. My experience is "everyone hates them." Even the big 660/661 is a monster the new guys want to run Week_1 and avoid starting Week_2. :dizzy:
I have 3 x MS 880's ( & 4 MS660's ) I certainly don't hate them and I use one of them almost weekly, you must be breeding wimps in the USA.
 
Are the trees really that big in garlic country? Eucalyptus, maybe? Did you know that all that garlic starts out here in Northern NV? I have nothing to add to your original question but I wish you the best of luck.
 
I have 3 x MS 880's ( & 4 MS660's ) I certainly don't hate them and I use one of them almost weekly, you must be breeding wimps in the USA.
Pretty much, most kids in the U.S. nowadays are as delicate as raspberries. Their idea of "work" is talking on their phone and having to put up with being interrupted by a customer occasionally, whom they fend off while showing their disdain. Physical labor is something that might kill them, from their reactions. When their parents die and the inheritance runs out they're possibly going to find out why their grandparents worked so hard to "get ahead."

Are things any better Down Under?
 
Pretty much, most kids in the U.S. nowadays are as delicate as raspberries. Their idea of "work" is talking on their phone and having to put up with being interrupted by a customer occasionally, whom they fend off while showing their disdain. Physical labor is something that might kill them, from their reactions. When their parents die and the inheritance runs out they're possibly going to find out why their grandparents worked so hard to "get ahead."

Are things any better Down Under?
Well maybe not as bad here as in the US but it is getting that way, younger generation wouldn't know **** from clay and don't appear to want to work hard.
 
The info is on old threads on here but never hurts to refresh it. Weird thing is I search more accurately for specific topics on this site using Google than I do the site's internal search mechanism, which often gives me a million vaguely related things to the search words I used. The pre-2010 880 had a cast aluminum muffler, not cast iron. The flywheel was poly. Then they switched to a steel muffler and aluminum flywheel. There is definitely different timing of the flywheels, not sure they're compatible even with modification, but maybe. Way easier just to buy the correct 1124 400 1210, there are a million AM flywheels out there for the 088/early 880, and some OEM's on Ebay.
My apologies for getting back to you so late I was falling some timber up in Lake Tahoe I have no problem with a Aftermarket flywheel but I can’t seem to find any also nobody has oem flywheels it seems they are quit rare would you be able to add a link if you find anything?
 
My apologies for getting back to you so late I was falling some timber up in Lake Tahoe I have no problem with a Aftermarket flywheel but I can’t seem to find any also nobody has oem flywheels it seems they are quit rare would you be able to add a link if you find anything?
I was a snow bum in the 90’s in Tahoe. Love those mountain forests. OEM’s are rare, will link an AM for you when I have time to look. Here ya go - https://www.sawagain.com/flywheel-fits-stihl-088-ms-880-new-11244001210/
https://www.farmertec.com/Flywheel-...0-088-Chainsaw-OEM-1124-400-1210-p757846.htmlhttps://wagnerschainsaws.com/produc...-ms880-088-chainsaw-oem-1124-400-1210-wagners
 
Has anyone had an issue with the clutch housing cover rocking back and forth before it's tightened down as if it's warped? Mine "pops" into place when pushing down on the lower corner at the rear handle causing the opposite corner by the chain brake to have a 2mm gap from the saw body, then the lower corner "pops" back out closing the opposite gap by the chain brake handle but the machined surface of the cover that sits against the bar is then on an angle with the rear sitting off of the bar. The saw was cleaned to "like new" and there's no change.

Tightening down the rear bar nut nut pulls the clutch cover flat as it pulls the cover against the bar and saw housing. If there's no bar it pulls the edges of the cover flat against the housing, leaving an even gap where the bar would be.

It happens with/without the chain, bar, sprocket, clutch drum, rubber deflector at the back of the housing, and bar tensioner mechanism cover plate (the thin silver one).

The chain catcher pin is in the proper hole and not binding, the C-Clip that holds it is in the right place and I have not tightened the snot out of the clutch housing cover without the chain catcher pin being in the hole. The saw has not been ported or overworked, and always has at least a minute of warm up and cool down time (which is about 30 seconds more than needed for the temperatures it has seen). There's no wear on the inside of the clutch cover housing (not even paint missing). All machined surfaces appear flat (by sight), the bar studs haven't rotated and are the same height (depth-checked via caliper at the dealer).

The dealer is similarly stumped and putting in a call to STIHL.
 
I have 3 x MS 880's ( & 4 MS660's ) I certainly don't hate them and I use one of them almost weekly, you must be breeding wimps in the USA.


Usually the kids use the biggest saw with the longest bar. And, then when their nuts drop they use the proper saws for the job. So, unless you are cutting 8 foot trees every day then you likely have no clue what you are doing.
 
Usually the kids use the biggest saw with the longest bar. And, then when their nuts drop they use the proper saws for the job. So, unless you are cutting 8 foot trees every day then you likely have no clue what you are doing.
You need to get out more it's a big world. In Australia the timber is very hard takes grunt to pull chain efficiently..it's common even for home owners that heat with wood to run 90cc plus saws it's nothing to do with being manly it's picking the best tool for the job at hand.
That whole biggest saw longest bar sitting on the shelf waiting for that one big tree to come along is an American thing don't confuse Aussie's with that silly practice lol
 
Usually the kids use the biggest saw with the longest bar. And, then when their nuts drop they use the proper saws for the job. So, unless you are cutting 8 foot trees every day then you likely have no clue what you are doing.
Not quite the reply I would have expected.

Rooshooter is a very knowledgeable bloke, with many hrs on large saws dealing with large timber, ie 8ft dia and more on a regular basis, so you might want to re think your comment.
 
Not quite the reply I would have expected.

Rooshooter is a very knowledgeable bloke, with many hrs on large saws dealing with large timber, ie 8ft dia and more on a regular basis, so you might want to re think your comment.

My apologies. I generally use the forum factor on what I read on here. Does not always apply.
 

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