MS461R Chain Tension Issues

[treesmith]

It's RS full chisel, the cutter points in those pictures don't look sharp enough, is the 2 in 1 the right file size for your chain?

Practice sharpening until you get the used chain looking exactly (or close enough to) the new chain. Chain should be snug when sharpening or it'll tilt and change your angles

 

[farmer steve]

i don't have the 2-1 sharpener (yet) but am wondering about taking the rakers down everytime you sharpen. i only file the rakers every 3-5 sharpenings by hand. the oiler adjustment screws don't have much of a turn from min to max.

 

[Glockem45]

It's RS full chisel, the cutter points in those pictures don't look sharp enough, is the 2 in 1 the right file size for your chain?

Practice sharpening until you get the used chain looking exactly (or close enough to) the new chain. Chain should be snug when sharpening or it'll tilt and change your angles

Funny you mention this, my chain always seems to be rocking while sharpening even though I already set the tension. Kinda hard to keep the sharpener square while sharpening. Yes the 2-1 sharpener is the 3/8" version for my 3/8" chain, right?

 

[farmer steve]

Yes I move the chain during final tensioning, then lock the two nuts. Yes it is a Stihl 84 link Yellow chain. I only have one chain that it came with. The chain is quite grabby, and no the saw needs me to work it into the cut then it rocks, but it seems to get stuck in the wood easily and the saw bogs down and stops in the cut. I use the Stihl 2-1 sharpener that handles the rakers as well.

As for oiling properly, who knows. A tank of gas is used and the bar oil is about 80% empty. But I swear I never see oil on my logs or anywhere else.

I seem to wrestle the saw into and during the cut, yet I get stuck quite often. No the bar is not losing paint and looks in great shape.

that sounds about right for oil usage. possibly try another chain.

 

[HarleyT]

What does the bottom end of the chain look like, and the sprocket where it meets the chain?
In general, if you can "see" the point of the RS chain, then it is dull. RS chain is sensitive, and likes to be as
"sharp" as your underwear!!

 

[treesmith]

Funny you mention this, my chain always seems to be rocking while sharpening even though I already set the tension. Kinda hard to keep the sharpener square while sharpening. Yes the 2-1 sharpener is the 3/8" version for my 3/8" chain, right?

As far as I know the filing angle of 0°/90° is relative to the top plate of the cutter, therefore if your chain leans over too much and you file horizontally then it's not at the 0°/90°. I tend to file slightly downward to allow for it but just be aware

 

[clemsonfor]

Yea post some pics of your chain.

Guys this is a brand new saw. The sprocket can't be worn out. And even if the chain was less than optimal sharpening I believe he said it did it since army was first run. He says about every second cut he has to retighten the chain. Even if this was a bad sharpening job after a few times he tightened the hot chain it would not stretch any more I wouldnt think...or not so much as to warent a retighten. From his description its like it loosens up not all stretch.

To me it sounds like the bar is not getting sanwhiched in the mount or something and allowed to vibrate backwards or something.

And I did not read his posts too close. We know each other and have been texting about this issue so there may be information that I am referencing that was not mentioned here.

 

[clemsonfor]

It's RS full chisel, the cutter points in those pictures don't look sharp enough, is the 2 in 1 the right file size for your chain?

Practice sharpening until you get the used chain looking exactly (or close enough to) the new chain. Chain should be snug when sharpening or it'll tilt and change your angles

I noticed this too. The point does not look pointy enough. Like it still needs a few strokes. And looking at the top plate you can tell the chain was dull in the cut before sharpening. Like pretty dull.

 

[Glockem45]

Yea post some pics of your chain.

I posted pics on page 1

 

[clemsonfor]

I posted pics on page 1

That was a post from last night when the site didnt take my post. I never edited it. Haha

 

[clemsonfor]

One of the views from homelite410 will keep that chain rock solid and take all that tilting and moving out that your talking about.

 

[Glockem45]

One of the views from homelite410 will keep that chain rock solid and take all that tilting and moving out that your talking about.

I don't know what this post means? "One of the Views from Homelite410" ?

 

[Glockem45]

What does the bottom end of the chain look like, and the sprocket where it meets the chain?
In general, if you can "see" the point of the RS chain, then it is dull. RS chain is sensitive, and likes to be as
"sharp" as your underwear!!

Sharp as my underwear ? Look at my pictures again, and I bet you will see my old underwear in the background ready to become shop rags....

 

[clemsonfor]

I don't know what this post means? "One of the Views from Homelite410" ?

Vices, Stupid auto correct!! And homelite410 is a member here. He has a cnc machine and makes a chain sharpening vice that grips your chain and allows you to sharpen off the saw and not let the chain move.

 

[HarleyT]

"Auto Correct" used to be a member here...



Nice rags....

Seriously, in general, if you can "see" the sharp edge, or point on a chain, then it is dull. If your chain is getting as loose as you say, what does the bottom end look like, and the sprocket?

 

[Foragefarmer]

In the overhead photo your left and right angles are dissimilar. This is common and due to handedness and something you have to constantly account for when hand filing. This can cause grabbiness. Is the cut tracking dead straight in the wood or is it hooking?

Hey; @clemsonfor, I see your auto correct is rubbish here as well.

 

[Glockem45]

In the overhead photo your left and right angles are dissimilar. This is common and due to handedness and something you have to constantly account for when hand filing. This can cause grabbiness. Is the cut tracking dead straight in the wood or is it hooking?

Hey; @clemsonfor, I see your auto correct is rubbish here as well.

Yes, I see what you are seeing in the overhead pic. It seems to cut straight, and I haven't noticed the cut walking out or hooking as you call it. I guess I have a lot to learn about sharpening a chain.

Can all of this lead to my tension issues? Also, when I say the chain gets loose after say 10-15 rounds of Noodling, I will start on the 16th round, and the chain will grab and stop, and then the chain is hanging off of the bar, meaning the entire chain is hanging out of the bar at the bottom center of the bar. This even occurs right after I set the tension on the chain. Crazy.

 

[HarleyT]

A common cause for chains needing adjustment often is a problem on the bottom side, and the sprocket. Which
is why I requested a pic or two in that area as well.....

 

[Foragefarmer]

It could... Mostly because it increases stress on the chain and heat due to friction increases.

If it is getting loose that fast you need to look at the tensioner. I know it is a newer saw but it sounds like something is slipping in the tensioner.

 

[HarleyT]

Tensioners are not designed to hold the bar tight in use, just hold it tight while tightening the bar nuts.......