My 562xp story

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Has anyone else noticed the contradiction in the 562XP manual (it's in the 550XP manual as well)? Y'all did read your manuals, right? :msp_ohmy:

Yet we're instructed to run full out for 3-5 minutes every time we use the saw. And now a dealer is telling a customer to do a full throttle run for 3-5 minutes so the carb can "re-learn". I wonder what dealers and Husqvarna will say when someone brings in a new grenaded AT saw? :msp_confused:

As far as the run in, well all mine get run hard from the start. 10 hours!!! thats funny right there. Saws get warmed up, then they are on the peg until out of fuel or shut off. CJ
 
Zero problems with my 562xp other than the chain brake band sticking to clutch once and awhile when removing bar cover.
I've had the same problem with mine, and the 550XP as well. I thought it was me, so I'm glad to see somebody else is as incompetent as I am! ;)
 
What size of tree are u cutting to run WOT for 5 minutes ????:confused:


Also, I make sure to run Premium NON-Eethanol gas, I also add Seafoam.


Zero problems with my 562xp other than the chain brake band sticking to clutch once and awhile when removing bar cover.

Cut 5 cords so far.....BEAST of a saw for the weight...

Seafoam has alcohol in it btw.
 
Seafoam has alcohol in it btw.

I only add 40 ml per gallon Ethanol gas is usually 10 % alcohol. A gallon has 4.5 liters so 40mils per 4500 mils gas is nothing to worry about. Less than1 % with 40ml per gallon.
Seafoam contains isopropyl alcohol and not ethanol. Big difference between the two, and the amount in SeaFoam is miniscule.

From Wikipedia:
Isopropyl alcohol is a major ingredient in "gas dryer" fuel additives. In significant quantities, water is a problem in fuel tanks, as it separates from the gasoline, and can freeze in the supply lines at cold temperatures. It does not remove water from gasoline; rather, the alcohol solubilizes water in gasoline. Once soluble, water does not pose the same risk as insoluble water as it will no longer accumulate in the supply lines and freeze. Isopropyl alcohol is often sold in aerosol cans as a windshield de-icer. Isopropyl alcohol is also used to remove brake fluid traces from hydraulic braking systems, so that the brake fluid (usually DOT 3, DOT 4 or mineral oil) does not contaminate the brake pads, which would result in poor braking
 
Seafoam contains isopropyl alcohol and not ethanol. Big difference between the two, and the amount in SeaFoam is miniscule.

From Wikipedia:

Ethanol is ethyl alcohol...and is VERY similar to isopropyl alcohol.

List of Common and Chemical Names for Alcohols and Ethanol.

I have been running seafoam in my premium non-ethanol gas for years in snowmachines, ice-augers, 2 stroke outboards and haven't blown an engine yet.

But I would NEVER add any alcohol based additive to 10% ethanol gas and use it in a 2-stroke engine....I actually will NOT use 10% ethanol gas in anything except my car or truck and even then I try NOT too.

Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada
 
I'm not a chemist and bow to your superior knowledge on the subject. Just wasn't sure why you would want to add any alcohol back into the mix.
 
Ethanol is ethyl alcohol...and is VERY similar to isopropyl alcohol.

List of Common and Chemical Names for Alcohols and Ethanol.

I have been running seafoam in my premium non-ethanol gas for years in snowmachines, ice-augers, 2 stroke outboards and haven't blown an engine yet.

But I would NEVER add any alcohol based additive to 10% ethanol gas and use it in a 2-stroke engine....I actually will NOT use 10% ethanol gas in anything except my car or truck and even then I try NOT too.

Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada

For most of us in here E10 is the only option and i have never had a issue with it, but my saws pay my bills so its not sitting around waiting to cut cookies. IMO the ethanol is overhyped
I'm sure all the engineers designing new OPE take ethanol into equasion and the new stuff is more tolarant to ethanol than older equipment.
 
For most of us in here E10 is the only option and i have never had a issue with it, but my saws pay my bills so its not sitting around waiting to cut cookies. IMO the ethanol is overhyped
I'm sure all the engineers designing new OPE take ethanol into equasion and the new stuff is more tolarant to ethanol than older equipment.

The newer equipment is more tolerant, but they still recommend no stronger than E10 (last I looked). And they and the car companies all sent missives to the gooberment kvetching in advance over the switch to e15. I know I ain't gonna argue with hundreds of professional engine designers and builders, they know alky fuel can be a problem.

Here is what happens, anyone "your" local gas station with e10 might be fine, someone else has a station where it really isn't e10, it might be up to e20 (this has happened and some members here with testers have found that), or they have gotten rainwater into the tanks, etc. Completely random crapshoot, that is why the results people report about vary in the extremes from zero problems, to "this last jug killed my stuff"!!

Basically, you can't say there are no problems running alky contaminated fuel, small engine dealers all over the nation have stacks of OPE where it is obvious the crap fuel contributed to or was the main cause of, the breakage. I get a lot of junker saws with.. looks melted, dissolved fuel lines. Not cracked and worn out, dissolved to a gloppy mess. I can't explain that other than the previous owner had rank fuel.

If you run your equipment most every day, get it from a gas dealer that has a fast big turnover, tanks in good shape, etc, swell, some people don't run gallons a day and get their fuel from the station that might experience supply problems. Just so much of a variable. Not all pump gas comes out equal. Also a professional small engine user would be expected to take better care of their equipment plus be more "in tune" to running issues and correct them pronto. Joe casual user might run one gallon a summer, who knows.

I know I have been recommending that small users use the canned premix as cheap insurance for good running and not kill their equipment.
 
So I'm having issues with a 2 week old 550xp. Was it doing anything like this?

I'd do the 3-5 minute fix, but I can't get it to stop dying in the cut.

It ran like an absolute champ for 2 days, then all of the sudden started doing this BS.

[video=youtube;hvSlheXZ-Yc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvSlheXZ-Yc[/video]
 
So I'm having issues with a 2 week old 550xp. Was it doing anything like this?

I'd do the 3-5 minute fix, but I can't get it to stop dying in the cut.

It ran like an absolute champ for 2 days, then all of the sudden started doing this BS.

[video=youtube;hvSlheXZ-Yc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvSlheXZ-Yc[/video]

Mine was acting very similar to that, yes. But only when I first started it, it ran a little better after it had ran for a while. A lot of times, I would have to let it idle, and just slightly blip the throttle for a while to get it to finally start reving. If you tried to rev it normally, it would immediately die. I should have mentioned in my first post, that when I bought the saw, I bought 3 cans of the husky pre-mix to extend the warranty. It ran great on the pre-mix gas, but when I switched to the me-mix gas (91; no ethanol), it started all the problems. But even after switching back to the husky gas, problems remained. After reading the other members comments here, sounds like a better option for you to get the dealer to reset the fuel settings with the diagnostic tool. Since the other members posts, I contacted my dealer again, and asked about the diagnostic tool. Apparently, he doesn't have the tool/software yet. So I think that's probably why he gave me the advise he did. I really think resetting the autotune with the tool is a better route. Then it would run good enough for you to do the tuning run. Just my .02 worth
 
I'd probably drop the boom on my backhoe from 14' and watch the gray and orange fly everywhere. (Done this to other pieces of equipment that won't perform)

This is why all my AT/MTronics I send out to the best tuners and let them work their magic on them. Haven't had a problem yet. And if you are lucky enough to have a Dealer like Spike60 that knows these saws inside out that will do also.
 
Mine was acting very similar to that, yes. But only when I first started it, it ran a little better after it had ran for a while. A lot of times, I would have to let it idle, and just slightly blip the throttle for a while to get it to finally start reving. If you tried to rev it normally, it would immediately die. I should have mentioned in my first post, that when I bought the saw, I bought 3 cans of the husky pre-mix to extend the warranty. It ran great on the pre-mix gas, but when I switched to the me-mix gas (91; no ethanol), it started all the problems. But even after switching back to the husky gas, problems remained. After reading the other members comments here, sounds like a better option for you to get the dealer to reset the fuel settings with the diagnostic tool. Since the other members posts, I contacted my dealer again, and asked about the diagnostic tool. Apparently, he doesn't have the tool/software yet. So I think that's probably why he gave me the advise he did. I really think resetting the autotune with the tool is a better route. Then it would run good enough for you to do the tuning run. Just my .02 worth

Husky (or stihl) should not allow any dealer to sell one of these new sort of saws without having the tools and training needed to service them. If they don't what's the point then, might as well buy off the internet or from a box store. The entire "buy it from the dealer" meme is for SERVICE.
 
I know I have been recommending that small users use the canned premix as cheap insurance for good running and not kill their equipment.
Exactly what I decided to do when a sprung for the 562 and 550 (plus the ability to extend the warranty out to 4 years). Spending more on saws in the past month than I have in the last 35 years, I wanted to at least give the new toys a fighting chance since they don't get used on a regular basis.
 
Exactly what I decided to do when a sprung for the 562 and 550 (plus the ability to extend the warranty out to 4 years). Spending more on saws in the past month than I have in the last 35 years, I wanted to at least give the new toys a fighting chance since they don't get used on a regular basis.

It's good fuel for sure. They would sell a lot more of it if they got real on the prices though. or sold one gallon, 2, 5 gallon jugs of it, with a deep discount over what they charge now by the quart..although I admit the quart cans are perfect for pouring into the saw or carrying in a jacket pocket.

I can get no E fuel locally, 93 octane, for four and small change a gallong. ya, more than 87 el cheapo ethanol contaminated, but..I'll pay it.....

If I didn't have that option, I don't know. I'd drive to a marina and fill like 5, 5 gallon jugs or see how to get avgas or something. Or maybe, being on a farm, see if I could get a quantity delivered of offroad/no E/recreational fuel. No idea on what a minimum quantity would be though. 55 gallon drum maybe? Don't know, never tried. We have bulk off road farm diesel, but no bulk gas tank here.
 
My 550 is great when it runs correctly. I'm having similar issues though. Couple that with it being a PITA to hot start, I came very close to pitching out of the bucket about 60' just to see if Autotune could make it fly. Why should we have to accept a saw with quirks and eccentricities. When you pull a saw out, it should work, period. If my 11 year old 395xp with more hours on it than I can count will hot start first pull and be ready to work immediately, why can't this new POS? Even my old Echo CS-300 that I bought in high school starts and runs more reliably. The only good thing I have to say about the saw is it is more fuel-efficient.
 
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