my experience with stihl

[Fish]

This must be another one of those mindless threads that just goes on and on and on and on....................................................................

Naw, it has not deteriorated to the point that you guys just post smilies....

 

[old-cat]

hahahaha..................................:wink2::msp_w00t::hmm3grin2orange:

 

[PainAndMurphy]

may I just point out.....

..that there is still no detail about the gauge of the 1st / bad chain??

we already got it that the bar was/is .050


how'bout the chain's?? pleeease??


oh -
and yea, I DID HAVE and WITNESS trouble caused by over-tightening the master/connecting link of a dealer who was in a rush. that's irresponsible, I know, but the person is still a good person. It's not always related.


just saying.

Jo.

 

[Fish]

If the original chain was a .058 ga. installed on a .050 ga. bar, well, it would not have been!!!!

I have worked in the business for a long time, and this is not the case.

If there was any problem with the original chain, it would likely have been that the drive link tang got bent when/if they cut an extra loop for the guy off of a roll.

And whoever put it on the saw decided to try to run it out.

Which is exactly why I requested a pic of the chain off of the saw at the area of the green drive link, so we could see if the drive link was bent there, or elsewhere,
but no one bothered to do that.

I am getting too old I guess to keep chasing these threads around the barn 5 times trying to help folks.

Tired of helping folks for nothing to show for it, I guess.....

But, with all of the "evidence" thrown up in this thread so far, if he has run through 3/4 of a gallon of bar oil, then the saw/chain was likely fine when he took it
home, and he just wants to start whining now.

But if he could put up the pics I requested, and show me the chain at the green tiestrap area, I may be on his side. But if not, I will have to side against him.

The chain punch and spinner setup that dealers employ are quite crude, and I only use the punch after grinding most of the rivet head off first, because I have been
in the business for a real long time, and I abhor making loops off of a reel when I am busy as hell, and bending a drive link tang is easy to do when punching out loops.

Just tired of it, I guess.

 

[moody]

Fish :agree2: people either don't want help or just enjoy complaining. I agreed with a couple parts of the thread, but it was obvious that the thread wasn't cut and dry.

 

[turnkey4099]

I doubt very seriously that you just happened to have a chain that was assembled with just enough defective parts out of the thousands that are dumped into the assembly bins to make your chain not work properly. I can't even begin to imagine what the odds of that happening could be. It is far more likely (Occam's Razor) that you hit something or continued to cut with a dull chain. And to top it off you ended up with a defective bar as well????? Me thinks not.

I'm not here to beat you up, but to make you do a little introspection into the genesis of your troubles. Stick around; there is a wealth of knowledge to be had here. All it takes is a little time and some thick skin.

I bought 2 loops seveeral years ago. Out of the box, one would not run on the bar. Close checking found a section of 5 or 6 drivelinks in a row that were over guage. It does happen. Seller shipped another loop and didn't even ask for the defectiveone back.

Harry K

 

[Fish]

I bought 2 loops seveeral years ago. Out of the box, one would not run on the bar. Close checking found a section of 5 or 6 drivelinks in a row that were over guage. It does happen. Seller shipped another loop and didn't even ask for the defectiveone back.

Harry K

Well they should, I have gotten loops with half of the chain going in the wrong direction, they were usually looped at the dist., not the factory.

 

[showrguy]

Well they should, I have gotten loops with half of the chain going in the wrong direction, they were usually looped at the dist., not the factory.

that's so you can change direction in the middle of a cut without moving your feet, or turning the saw upside down........... totally ingenious, i tell ya !!!

 

[Fish]

Fish :agree2: people either don't want help or just enjoy complaining. I agreed with a couple parts of the thread, but it was obvious that the thread wasn't cut and dry.

Definitely not cut and dry, but showing the pics I requested may have made it so.

Not only could we see if there was damage at the loop link area, and also see the gauge of the chain, but we don't have that consideration, so it is just a lot of blind flapping about.

Yeah, I agree about folks liking to complain. But bringing the case here, the case should be at least be clear, which it has not been.

No matter Stihl or who, if the lynch mob here is to be whipped up, what is wrong with having correct info?

 

[malk315]

I have learned a TON from AS and I SURE APPRECIATE guys like you (Fish) who have tons of experience posting good information.

A year ago I couldn't sharpen a chain for anything... always had my brother do it for me. Used to struggle with a battery powered grinder that was a pain -- taking an hour to sharpen a chain futzing with the electric grinder. Last time my bro and I were out on a job he was amazed how fast the 372 was going through oak after I had touched the chain up before going out -- 10 minutes with a file. I owe all of my sharpening skills from info on AS picking the right guide, watching the right videos, seeing the right pictures etc., getting the rakers right, all from guys who live in the woods. I'm excited my chain teeth are almost ground to the discard point -- I used to buy new chains way earlier, but now I know I have ground all of that metal off doing a good filing job before each outing and it's always a rush dropping the bar in for that first cut after sharpening to see how it came out... and smiling for ear to ear when big chips are flying everywhere.

I also got a lot of great info on saw selection and I know I made the right choice buying the 372XP last year... would probably have ended up with a 357XP or smaller saw and would have been disappointed if I didn't research on AS.

So a big THANK YOU for sharing all of the useful info on here! I SURE APPRECIATE IT.

-Eric a.k.a malk315

 

[Philbert]

Update today,

I cut down a 10" box elder tree today that was leaning over my shed and neighbors fence. The new chain on the saw cut so well it far exceeded my expectations almost like that chain SHOULD HAVE came on that saw when I bought it.

Glad that you got it working like it should.

Philbert

 

[spike60]

C'mon Spike, I bet you smoked a few Stihl chains before you bought your first husky, didn't ya....oke::hmm3grin2orange:

And I've been pissed at Stihl ever since! How was I to know there was a horseshoe in that old tree? It's Stihl's fault, and all of their dealers are no good. :msp_biggrin:

 

[SawTroll]

If the original chain was a .058 ga. installed on a .050 ga. bar, well, it would not have been!!!! .....

That is hard to do even on a close to wore out bar, and certainly not possible on a new one.

 

[Fish]

That is hard to do even on a close to wore out bar, and certainly not possible on a new one.

Yeah, my point!!!!

 

[turnkey4099]

C'mon Spike, I bet you smoked a few Stihl chains before you bought your first husky, didn't ya....oke::hmm3grin2orange:

I sure smoked a few chains of various brands at the beginning...BUT was willing to admit it. I didn't try to blame the dealers

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

that's so you can change direction in the middle of a cut without moving your feet, or turning the saw upside down........... totally ingenious, i tell ya !!!

And you don't have to pay attention to which way the chain goes on!!

Harry K