.......normal three shoe clutch, three spring, with a central spider. Some with bonding, some just metal. Here's the cutoff saw version.
Neat little gearbox attachment for chainsaw
- Thread starter win67
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Damn, I thought mine was heavy. That gearbox looks like a sumbitch to balance, but I'll bet it will work very well 250 years from now!
Good to know, but I should have said, is it inboard or outboard?
In other words, if I were to buy one, could I use it with my drilling attachment?
The clutch is outboard.
Guido Salvage
Supreme Saw Whoreder
I recently sold this hedge trimmer attachment for a Stihl 015.
Nice! They have a nice one of those hedge trimmer like that complete at the McKinney, TX (Blue Mountain Distribution) on one of the salesman's file cabinet.
I've been looking for one of these for years now. The rarest cutoff saw, 9" wheel powered by an 020avp.Saw one TS200 on ebay a while back and missed it.
These electric ones are pretty cool.
^^^^Neat! I've never seen one of those before! I hate it when a really rare item gets away on eBay and you don't see another one for sale, at any price, for another 2 years or so.
When I either have a true need for one, or more money to spend of machinery collecting (or both), I want to get the new concrete-cutting bar/chain/clutch cover that Stihl now offers for the MS461, and put them on an 046. It would be pretty neat to be able to cut both wood and ceramics with the same powerhead assembly.
When I either have a true need for one, or more money to spend of machinery collecting (or both), I want to get the new concrete-cutting bar/chain/clutch cover that Stihl now offers for the MS461, and put them on an 046. It would be pretty neat to be able to cut both wood and ceramics with the same powerhead assembly.
Good evening! Thought I'd share my latest chainsaw gadget, that I'm looking forward to using for maple sugaring in a few weeks. I like this kind because, unlike most others I've seen before, it doesn't use a toothless chain to drive it. It fits right over the rim drive splines on the clutch drum. I've only seen one of these once before and it was years ago, so when I saw this on eBay I snatched it up right quick. The seller had it attached to a newish MS261, and I got the package for what would have been a good deal for just the saw. I have a nice 026 that I'll be using with this, so the 261 is being sold after I get it back to chainsaw configuration (more on that later). As there are NO markings of any kind on the gearbox, I'd love to know more about it if anyone has any knowledge. It appears to have been made in a very small run, maybe in a factory machine shop. It appears that the pattern for the casting either didn't come out as expected, or the sand mold was worked on freehand a little bit.
3/4" chuck
Look carefully, and you can see the crappy sand casting work done. The case is aluminum.
Chainsaw side. The kadingus toward the fixed vise jaw fits over the clutch drum splines. It appears to have been made very crudely with a milling machine, rather than broached or investment cast, again indicating that this was likely made in a very small run.
Attached to saw
Method of attachment to saw. Notice the broken bar stud.
Oil tank on the 261. Apparently this saw was purchased new specifically for use with this gearbox, and had never had oil in the tank. I was afraid the oil pump would be burned up, but it oiled as well as I've ever seen a Stihl oil.
I'm thinking of giving the eBay seller some crap, because he waited 18 days after receiving payment to ship the saw, and although it was advertised as "good" condition, it had a broken bar stud, missing clutch pilot bearing, missing bucking spike (or whatever it's called), and the part of the cover that the master control lever slides in is broken and bent such that it prevents the lever from moving freely. When the parts get in I'll test run it and then hopefully sell it. I may eventually buy a 2nd 026 and remove the oiler and brake, and make it a dedicated drill engine. We'll see. In the meantime, it will go on my current 026 and be used to start the engine on my welder, which was made in 1956 and has no starting system whatsoever, not even a rope start. Just a big nut on the crank stub. That way, I'll be able to start the welder in places where I can't plug in my 5/8" electric drill.
Years ago - like around 1970 - I lived very close to one of the largest maple syrup producers in the US (at that time).
They used Homelite saws to drill the holes. The saws had a custom machined adaptor that fit right on the output shaft of the saw - in place of the clutch. The other end of the adaptor accepted a standard Jacobs chuck and there was a hole of the appropriate size in the clutch cover to allow the cover to be in place. This setup required reverse "left hand" drill bits because of the reverse rotation of the output shaft.
The bit turned all the time - so looking back now - it guess it was a pretty dangerous way of doing things... but they had thousands of trees to tap and this setup was better than anything they had tried up to that time.
It was so popular that they actually sold the adaptors to other syrup producers around the country.
They used Homelite saws to drill the holes. The saws had a custom machined adaptor that fit right on the output shaft of the saw - in place of the clutch. The other end of the adaptor accepted a standard Jacobs chuck and there was a hole of the appropriate size in the clutch cover to allow the cover to be in place. This setup required reverse "left hand" drill bits because of the reverse rotation of the output shaft.
The bit turned all the time - so looking back now - it guess it was a pretty dangerous way of doing things... but they had thousands of trees to tap and this setup was better than anything they had tried up to that time.
It was so popular that they actually sold the adaptors to other syrup producers around the country.
jra1100
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't tap all that many trees, but I'd love to find one of those at a reasonable price. Cool factor alone would be out of this world.
