Yes, this thread is starting to suck.
Need a saw receommendation
- Thread starter jfenwick
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danrclem
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have two pro saws that I use for my cutting wood only for myself. I've never regretted the extra money that I spent on them. They handle better and save me time and make my job easier. I bought a 60cc semi-pro saw first and even though it is a good saw it now sits on a shelf while my other two saws do the work.
Steve2910
ArboristSite Guru
Yes, but it's interesting (to me at least) to watch these discussions go sideways. Here we've gone from a guy asking for opinions on which saw to buy to argument(s) over the weight of a cord of wood & fuel economy of a saw.
Several months ago, somebody posted pics of a huge log they saw on vacation... that one turned into a discussion on smoked fish if I remember correctly.
Bingo!
Cutting firewood is enjoyable for me, but I don't have all the time I'd like for it.
I'm not retired.
I have to do farm work.
I also have a regular job not on the farm.
I need the better anti-vibe tech.
I cut entire trees and make stumps (the 290 lacks grunt to be a decent stumper)
I cut treetops from timber harvests (the 290 is too heavy and slow for long cutting sessions on these)
Some hardwood trees are really big. Sometimes well over 2 foot diameter (290/20" bogs when buried)
Others may have situations that are different and those saws make sense. For instance, one of my brothers just clears limbs from a small backyard with his Craftsman 42cc saw and it's perfect for him. For me, the landowner/homeowner saws don't meet my needs.
TXTreeSurgeon
ArboristSite Operative
I think you should buy a saw that you will still be happy with a year from now... and ten years from now. You don't want to buy a cheap tool and wish you had bought a better one. You want a saw that you will enjoy using and that is easy to work on (nice features like an inboard clutch make a big difference). For that reason, I would only consider a pro saw if you are going to cut enough wood to heat your home. From the size trees that you said you will be cutting, a 50cc saw can handle it all with ease. I would get a MS261 since I like Stihl, but I am sure the 346xp would be excellent as well. (I had to say that to be polite to all of the Husky fans :msp_wink:... get the 261)
In reference to what others have said:
-I don't think two saws are necessary if you own two bars. If you can't get your saw out of a pinch, then your can always take the bar off, put on your extra bar and chain, and cut the pinched bar and chain free. That is a much more affordable plan than owning two saws! If you get a 50cc saw, buy a 16" and a 20" bar, then you will be ready for almost any firewood cutting job.
-I agree that the 362 is a great all-around saw, but I also understand that you have to keep within budget and your family has other needs. My 362 is the best tool that I have ever bought hands down... but I would probably say the same thing if I had a 261 instead. A 50cc pro saw will easily meet your needs and will be super reliable. If you ever want/need a bigger saw, then you can get a 70cc saw to compliment the 50cc.
In reference to what others have said:
-I don't think two saws are necessary if you own two bars. If you can't get your saw out of a pinch, then your can always take the bar off, put on your extra bar and chain, and cut the pinched bar and chain free. That is a much more affordable plan than owning two saws! If you get a 50cc saw, buy a 16" and a 20" bar, then you will be ready for almost any firewood cutting job.
-I agree that the 362 is a great all-around saw, but I also understand that you have to keep within budget and your family has other needs. My 362 is the best tool that I have ever bought hands down... but I would probably say the same thing if I had a 261 instead. A 50cc pro saw will easily meet your needs and will be super reliable. If you ever want/need a bigger saw, then you can get a 70cc saw to compliment the 50cc.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think I need to clarify a few things here so the OP doesn't get a wrong impression. I also own two pro saws (Solo 644, Dolmar 5001). They are great and I got the 644 hardly used for half price and the 5001 new for 2/3 regular price. So for me it was a easy answer. Further I have some small homeowner class saws. The only reason I bought the pro saws was because I got them at a sensational price. I believe that if the dolmar 420 was available at that time it would have been sufficient for all my needs! I am cutting the firewood for myself and my FIL who lives 400km away(all together about ~ 7 chords per year). So when I go there I am in a real rush to cut all his firewood over the weekend. He can not help any more after 2 stroke's and 3 heart attaks.
So now let's get back to the generel critisism expressed by posters here.
1. Only pro saws have a good antivibe => that is simply wrong! All newer semi pro/ farmer models have nowadays modern spring antivib. And there was nothing wrong with the older rubber system. The only real difference you will notice is if you try out a few different brands that some are more stiff than others, but that is purely how good you feel with one compared to another. Just like in cars, US cars are usually softer, european cars usually stiffer, you buy what you prefer. But to really appreciate one over the other you need a lot of experience which the OP simply doesn't have.
2. Only pro saws are fast => they are faster! But only by a few seconds. But there is more to a faster saw than the potential to be faster. I always chuckle when I remember an incident when I was cutting up a large walnut tree. Someone lent me a Stihl 066 (>90cc, 7hp!). I thought great I will zip right through. What an embarresment, the chain was dull, the carb out of tune. I just used it to say one day I have also used a 066 in my life. But for the cutting I switched right back to my Dolmar (50cc, 3.8hp).
What my point is if your saw is in great condition (carb tuned right, sharp chain, etc) don't worry about anything.
3. Pro saws have inboard clutches => Husqvarna has many pro models only with outboard clutches, and that is the reason many believe why they handle so well.
4. Pro saws never bog down when under pressure => not true! Simply check with the board makers with their alasken mills etc. They always have the largest saws, but with too much pressure comes the stand still. Any smaller saw you can bog if you just lean hard enough on it. It is always a mix of certain aspects.
A. How long is the blade? The longer the easier it is to bog.
B. What typ of chain? How is the grind? etc.
5. Only pro saws will last a life time => simply not true! There are enough pro users here who have repeatedly documented that their use of semi pro/ farmer models has exeded any of there expectations. They have had years of use without any major failures. And years of use in a pro setting equates in my book to life long use in a homeowner setting. They are just as easy to rebuild (if you know what you are doing) as pro models.
So I hope to disillusion the OP of some of the myths alive on this site and bring back a certain aspekt of "ratio" here.
Good luck!
7
So now let's get back to the generel critisism expressed by posters here.
1. Only pro saws have a good antivibe => that is simply wrong! All newer semi pro/ farmer models have nowadays modern spring antivib. And there was nothing wrong with the older rubber system. The only real difference you will notice is if you try out a few different brands that some are more stiff than others, but that is purely how good you feel with one compared to another. Just like in cars, US cars are usually softer, european cars usually stiffer, you buy what you prefer. But to really appreciate one over the other you need a lot of experience which the OP simply doesn't have.
2. Only pro saws are fast => they are faster! But only by a few seconds. But there is more to a faster saw than the potential to be faster. I always chuckle when I remember an incident when I was cutting up a large walnut tree. Someone lent me a Stihl 066 (>90cc, 7hp!). I thought great I will zip right through. What an embarresment, the chain was dull, the carb out of tune. I just used it to say one day I have also used a 066 in my life. But for the cutting I switched right back to my Dolmar (50cc, 3.8hp).
What my point is if your saw is in great condition (carb tuned right, sharp chain, etc) don't worry about anything.
3. Pro saws have inboard clutches => Husqvarna has many pro models only with outboard clutches, and that is the reason many believe why they handle so well.
4. Pro saws never bog down when under pressure => not true! Simply check with the board makers with their alasken mills etc. They always have the largest saws, but with too much pressure comes the stand still. Any smaller saw you can bog if you just lean hard enough on it. It is always a mix of certain aspects.
A. How long is the blade? The longer the easier it is to bog.
B. What typ of chain? How is the grind? etc.
5. Only pro saws will last a life time => simply not true! There are enough pro users here who have repeatedly documented that their use of semi pro/ farmer models has exeded any of there expectations. They have had years of use without any major failures. And years of use in a pro setting equates in my book to life long use in a homeowner setting. They are just as easy to rebuild (if you know what you are doing) as pro models.
So I hope to disillusion the OP of some of the myths alive on this site and bring back a certain aspekt of "ratio" here.
Good luck!
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Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
Well; as far as the two bars or two saws, I have both. The two saws add convenience in the field without a doubt.
The two bars definitely can save a saw in a pinch.
The two bars definitely can save a saw in a pinch.
I think 7sleeper has given the OP some EXTREEMLY good advice here. The only thing I would add to any of it is on the inspection of the 026, and that is to have the spark plug removed and take a look at the cylinder wall. You can't see much but if the cylinder is scored, you should be able to notice it. If the current ownder will do it, take the muffler off and do the sme thing through the exaust port. There you can see a bigger area, and you can get a look at the piston as well.
If that 026 checks out, buy it. An 026 with a 16" bar, some .325 x .063 chain, a pair of chaps, some gloves, and a forestry helmet and you are good to go. IF, and I do mean IF you ever decide to get a bigger saw, the 026 still makes for a good small saw, and you will always be glad that you have it. Best of all, it didn't eat your entire budget up, and leaves you some room for purchasing a second saw if you should choose. Use the 026 for a while first though. Maybe go out with your uncle for a few weekends and let him give you some pointers and watch over you while you work on some of his tops.
If you don't get a second saw right away, and you don't have a neighbor near by that will loan you a saw for a few hours to get out of a pinch, then make sure to get an extra bar. The extra bar is not money wasted. The bar is a consumable just like the chains. Over the cource of a few years you will most likely wear out the bar. So you're not really buying an extra bar, you're just buying the next bar before the price goes up
If the saw already has a bar and chain that's longer than 16", use that as your backup and get a new 16" bar for it. The 16" bar will handle 90% of your cutting without having to cut from both sides, and it will make the saw lighter to handle, and let it cut a little faster.
Just my 2 bits,
Mark
If that 026 checks out, buy it. An 026 with a 16" bar, some .325 x .063 chain, a pair of chaps, some gloves, and a forestry helmet and you are good to go. IF, and I do mean IF you ever decide to get a bigger saw, the 026 still makes for a good small saw, and you will always be glad that you have it. Best of all, it didn't eat your entire budget up, and leaves you some room for purchasing a second saw if you should choose. Use the 026 for a while first though. Maybe go out with your uncle for a few weekends and let him give you some pointers and watch over you while you work on some of his tops.
If you don't get a second saw right away, and you don't have a neighbor near by that will loan you a saw for a few hours to get out of a pinch, then make sure to get an extra bar. The extra bar is not money wasted. The bar is a consumable just like the chains. Over the cource of a few years you will most likely wear out the bar. So you're not really buying an extra bar, you're just buying the next bar before the price goes up
If the saw already has a bar and chain that's longer than 16", use that as your backup and get a new 16" bar for it. The 16" bar will handle 90% of your cutting without having to cut from both sides, and it will make the saw lighter to handle, and let it cut a little faster. Just my 2 bits,
Mark
Sorry guys, have been busy this past weekend getting this house ready to sell.
Thanks yet again for all the great advice. We aren't moving into this new place for a couple of months still so I'm in no hurry to buy. Right now I'm still leaning towards the 261, there aren't many big trees on the property and I'm inclined to let those stay and keep busy on the dead falls for the first few years. Maybe even check in with the neighbor and see if I can take his as it doesn't' seem like anyone is cleaning up that bush either.
I'll also be watching for used saws on kijiji, we'll see what comes up. I think any offer I make will be contingent on meeting at a dealership and having the saw looked at there.
You guys have been great, best forum I've posted on for any subject. Both fast and educated responses!
Thanks yet again for all the great advice. We aren't moving into this new place for a couple of months still so I'm in no hurry to buy. Right now I'm still leaning towards the 261, there aren't many big trees on the property and I'm inclined to let those stay and keep busy on the dead falls for the first few years. Maybe even check in with the neighbor and see if I can take his as it doesn't' seem like anyone is cleaning up that bush either.
I'll also be watching for used saws on kijiji, we'll see what comes up. I think any offer I make will be contingent on meeting at a dealership and having the saw looked at there.
You guys have been great, best forum I've posted on for any subject. Both fast and educated responses!
Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
Your a man after my own heart. If you change your mind and get the 460 you'll sure nuff make me cry. :chainsawguy:
SawTroll
Information Collector
The MS290 may be durable to a point, but it surely isn't a nice saw to use.....:msp_sad::msp_rolleyes:
CrappieKeith
Addicted to ArboristSite
....just for fun...think Remington...you can get one with a 20" bar for $199. I think you guys are crazy with Stihl or Husky's!!!
Before you all go crazy on me....I'm really not serious....just poking fun at those well casing guys that use them for flue pipes or you guys that buy a stove and go poking holes and mounting fans all over your house to get heat to move through it.
So if a guy can cut corners...fly by the seat of his pants...Remington's must be a great saw..then again a solid back up...poulan.
Before you all go crazy on me....I'm really not serious....just poking fun at those well casing guys that use them for flue pipes or you guys that buy a stove and go poking holes and mounting fans all over your house to get heat to move through it.
So if a guy can cut corners...fly by the seat of his pants...Remington's must be a great saw..then again a solid back up...poulan.
ford tech
ArboristSite Lurker
I would also suggest the ms 362 w/20 in bar - if you find you need somthing bigger buy a ms 460
Arbonaut
Go Climb It
I like this guy.
BTW, OP-sorry i contributed to the thread spinning out of control. But I guarantee ya you can't beat a Stihl MS261 cutting logging tops for firewood. The Stihl and especially the 026/260/261 and 361-460 crowd has their feet planted solidly in reality around here.
Like this guy too. Good at Mathematics. Stihl MS361 for Treepointer.
*DING* Another Truth Torpedo for Tex Tree. Nobody could say what he just said any better.
Your a man after my own heart. If you change your mind and get the 460 you'll sure nuff make me cry. :chainsawguy:
Don't cry Sagetown. This is a good kid. Were pretty sure he's goin' 261.
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Bailey's has the Makita 6421 on sale right now for $599.
Stihl MS261 50.2cc 20" $579 :bang:
Makita DCS 6421 64cc 20" $599
Stihl MS261 50.2cc 20" $579 :bang:
Makita DCS 6421 64cc 20" $599
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Bailey's has the Makita 6421 on sale right now for $599.
Stihl MS261 50.2cc 20" $579 :bang:
Makita DCS 6421 64cc 20" $599
I would prefer the efco 165 + 18" for $529;99!
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Arbonaut
Go Climb It
He wants to get the thread sideways again.
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Arbonaut
Go Climb It
That's my final saw receo mmendation
[video=youtube;IiIaHBpPvVI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IiIaHBpPvVI&list=PL530886CC58E3C0CD&index=3&feature=plpp_video[/video]
[video=youtube;IiIaHBpPvVI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IiIaHBpPvVI&list=PL530886CC58E3C0CD&index=3&feature=plpp_video[/video]
AIM
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just my opinion on saws. There is no such thing as "THE BEST SAW"... In whatever CC class. There are a handful of great saws in each CC class but no "BEST".... "BEST" is determined in the mind of the user...
