need help deciding on outdoor boiler

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FARMINGMICH

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hello new to forum,trying to decide between a central boiler 6048 and a heatmasters mf10000e, any opinions thoughts pros cons, thanks
 
thats the way ive been leading just got a good friend/dealer really pushing the heatmasters, but they also want $9995 for the heatmasters MF10000e and i can get the central boiler right now for $8300, and that price could get better, do you think theses stoves are both comparable in size, i no the central boiler holds alot more watter
 
What state do you live in? The EPA and many states are regulating OWBs now, and you may want to get an EPA one, depending. Also the CB 6048 Classic is a huge boiler, and will crank out a lot of heat. One problem with Heatmaster is that they use SS. I would avoid that in a boiler... expensive, they get brittle, SS holds too much heat (and expands). You want thick mild steel in an OWB.

I had a CB 4036 that I installed and ran for years and loved it. The controller went out, but they are cheap to replace from the supplier. They are simple, easy to plumb and use. I plumbed it to a hydronic floor heater loop Hx and hot water heater Hx and we had plenty of heat all winter. They like to eat a lot of wood, but you only need to split wood to a size that you can lift.
 
i live in Michigan, i no the EPA standards are in the works but still a little while out thats why i want to get a classic now while i can still buy them
 
If those are your choices, its actually hard. Ive always liked and preffered Central but their warranty support has gone south and so has their quality of steel. I know of 4 HM's and 2 are the 10000e. their customer support and warranty right now are about the best or very good tosay the least. One customer did have a hole erroded thru the top near chimney and he had a new tank out there within 5 days. covered no questions, just verified his water tests. This unit has been used 24/7/365 for 27 months at an industrial building plus heating a house/office. pictures revealed what appeared to be something dripping onto the tank and eating the tank.
I will say Stainless doesnt have a good track record for those who dont know how to run or lack of monitoring the system.
Back to the most important part of an OWB purchase, your dealer and the qualifications of the installer. The majority of installed systems are done wrong, very wrong. and there are plenty of horror stories on the net about once they get your check, thats the last time you'll speak to them. Make sure your dealer and installer have a minimum of 10 years with OWB's, licensed in boilers, not just a plumber(cuz most suk), and have carried the brand for a while. Central is pretty safe cuz they've been around for so long.
There are still rules for OWB's in Michigan, its a matter of wether your township enforces or even knows about them. Cities like Marquete will laugh you out the door, after they tear your permit application up in front of you( kidding but not really). Lets say if you follow the code it will add to the job cost. Some areas are minimum of 150' away from house, so thats almost $8000 in Logstor pipe alone. ( by the way dont fall for the foil bubble wrap crap unless you like heating the dirt). Chimney height 6' higher than any peak within 300'. Just cover your butt....

Good Luck
 
thanks for the info, yea my township its easy to get a permit if needed even, more then half my neighbors have them allready
 
If your neighbors have OWB'S talk to them and see what they like about the brands they have . I have a Central boiler 5036 and i'm happy so far ( 3rd year ).My neighbor has a natures comfort and I thought the Centrals seemed a little better after I looked at both .
 
I have the 10000E and have zero problems. I have had it running all year except for 2 weeks when we left for vacation. I really asked a lot of questions before i bought one and think I made a great choice. Not saying the others are bad just that I love mine. I have called Heatmaster a couple times over different things just to make sure I am doing things right. They answer right away and make sure I understand before I am done( my installer did ok with some things but I have learned to ask you guys to make sure).
 
i live in Michigan, i no the EPA standards are in the works but still a little while out thats why i want to get a classic now while i can still buy them

The EPA just released their proposal for residential wood heating. You may want to read through the hydronic heater section:

http://www2.epa.gov/sites/productio...roposed_requirements_for_hydronic_heaters.pdf

In MI, IA, MN, and WI you should be OK buying a CB Classic. While the EPA may not insist that any existing stoves be replaced, there are states that are requiring that now. CA and OR have state or regional laws requiring the removal of any non-EPA or state DEQ approved wood heaters if a home is sold. OR is also proposing an outright ban on all existing non-EPA wood stoves and boilers. OWBs and pre/non-EPA wood stoves are currently not legal to sell in Oregon or Washington now. Also New England, PA, NY require all OWBs to be EPA approved. Other states have smoke limits, like NJ which is no more than 3 minutes of visible smoke per 30 minute period.
 
10 grand is alot of money. I'd like to see a vote of how many OWB's are 10yr old , running good and happy owners with no serious problems and $$ upkeep. Then at 15 and 20 yrs.
Thats a big chunk of savings or a loan and you have to buy $18-$25 per foot underground lines and install. For a 10 gauge simple tank and a box design. Most dont make it 15yrs and alot of the latest ones arent making it 6yrs without seriously expensive problems. They can save alot of money but you might have to buy another. This EPA crap has killed the car biz, energy star my butt appliance market and wood stoves getting it too. cost more to fix, more difficult to fix and changing designs sometimes makes parts hard to get.
If your not against the idea look at the indoor wood boilers, worst case you put it outside with a shed or non permanent structure to protect it. But with a Tarm , Vigas type, your buying an appliance that lasts for 25-40 years. Heck the Tarms are so well built and efficient they sell for 2 grand for a 20-25yr old model. I havent seen one that didnt sell quick. Just saying, do plenty of research its a big investment.
 
Being from Michigan, you might want to look into Ridgewood Stove (http://ridgewoodstove.net/). Located in Hersey, MI, they have a 2 different models available. I have the 6000 model and I am happy with it so far. It does everything I want it to do, keeps the house toasty, dhw hot, and easily gets 12 hour burns. I could get longer burns if I loaded it up more, I just fill it up with what I think it'll burn in 12ish hours. The best part was that the stove and entire install was under $6,500. Worth a thought anyways.
 
Take this for what its worth...

I dont own a OWB, but have seen a few, operated a couple. My full time job is operating a 2400 hp HRSG Boiler. Been a licensed boiler operator for 7 yrs now....anyways, The biggest problem i see with all OWB is that their designs are vastly inefficient. They can be improved greatly! Water treatment is the most important thing when it comes to making a boiler last. Proper water treatment also plays a big role in boiler efficiency.

My opinion, central boiler, seems like they will be around for a long time... I dont like forced draft on any wood heat appliance.
 
Being from Michigan, you might want to look into Ridgewood Stove (http://ridgewoodstove.net/). Located in Hersey, MI, they have a 2 different models available. I have the 6000 model and I am happy with it so far. It does everything I want it to do, keeps the house toasty, dhw hot, and easily gets 12 hour burns. I could get longer burns if I loaded it up more, I just fill it up with what I think it'll burn in 12ish hours. The best part was that the stove and entire install was under $6,500. Worth a thought anyways.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/owb-overheated.247477/

The only thing that will make a CB over heat is if the damper solenoid sticks (Happened to me once in 8 years), or some fool left the door opened (happened once, she won't do that again), you can pack as much wood as you want in it and it won't overheat.
 
-Lotta good points have been made here.
-Yup, stainless is not good boiler material. Ever seen a 10 year old stainless boiler? I have...in the scrap pile.
-Most OWBs are complete crap efficiency! Something to be said for the IWBs though, lotta old ones out there just pluggin away, efficiency can be much better on 'em, especially if you have water storage, they're cheaper, you can load 'em in your skivies...etc etc etc
-Proper water treatment is #1 thing you can do to prolong the life of the system
-Don't cheap out on the underground lines!
-Forced draft is just not the best set up unless it is on a gassifier unit.
-Just my 2 ¢...
 
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/owb-overheated.247477/

The only thing that will make a CB over heat is if the damper solenoid sticks (Happened to me once in 8 years), or some fool left the door opened (happened once, she won't do that again), you can pack as much wood as you want in it and it won't overheat.

That issue was resolved by flipping the interior draft/clean out door upside down. Was probably supposed to be that way when they installed it, but either way, no issues since I flipped that plate over. I wouldn't let that stop me from buying another Ridgewood.
 
thanks for all the info guys ive just made a deposit on a 6048, im now just trying to find the best deal and trying to figure out when the best rebate will be from CB, kind of a crap shoot threres a $600 instant rebate right now
 
I think you will be happy with your choice . They are very well made.Glad to have mine right now with temps at -5 and wind chill at -20
 

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