Need help with MS 170

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Usually these are homeowners that run these saws. They let it idle and run for short periods. It doesn't run long enough to burn the carbon off the screen.

I did a muffler mod to it so there isn't any screen on it . . . and it wasn't clogged anyhow.

You need to go through the fuel system,

I'm planning on it. thanks . .
 
I ordered a carb for a MS 250 yesterday from the local Shears dealer. Should be in today. It said it was a Walboro 215 carb. I didn't find any problems with the fuel line last night.
 
Ok so I put the new wt 215 carb on last night . . . the saw still doesn't run! It runs fine when dripping fuel into the carb manually so I know its a fuel problem. I took the tank off again and the hose outside the tank seems fine, the little green plug vent in the top of the tank is releasing fuel when you splash the tank around so i think that's good. I took the filter off the inside of the tank hose and tried running the saw like that. No difference. It starts on full choke/throttle but then shuts off right away.

I think I'll try getting a new tank or at least the hose/filter.
 
So I put a new fuel line, tank vent and cap on it and it still didn't make a difference. Kicks over on full choke/throttle and when I go up one click to partial choke/full throttle it runs for about 2 seconds and shuts off. I gave up and took it to the dealer . . . that was almost a month ago, lol . . . any guesses?? I have $85 into the saw so far and now that I took it into the dealer it will be $40 minimum for them to take a look at it. I should've just bought a new one for $180!!!

I never let anything beat me but this saw is a different kind of animal all together!
 
Just out of curiosity, did you inform the dealer that the saw doesn't have the correct carb installed? If you didn't you might end up paying for a new correct carb anyway if he calls you to say he had to replace that due to it being incorrect....
 
Just out of curiosity, did you inform the dealer that the saw doesn't have the correct carb installed? If you didn't you might end up paying for a new correct carb anyway if he calls you to say he had to replace that due to it being incorrect....

Yes I told them . . .

The MS170 is a piece of crap. Don't waste your time or your money on it.

Starting to think that . . .


Is this an easy swap out? The carb on mine is my biggest gripe. Great lil saw, crappy carb.

Easy swap out yes but it doesn't work apparently . . . they just called me and said the intake doesn't match up at all with that carb and it will not work with that saw . . . so now I have to drop off the old carb for them to put back on and try.

I thought the one guy on here said it was a good swap out which is why I wasted the money on one! They told me not to listen to any of the jokers on the forums . . .
 
Yes I told them . . .



Starting to think that . . .




Easy swap out yes but it doesn't work apparently . . . they just called me and said the intake doesn't match up at all with that carb and it will not work with that saw . . . so now I have to drop off the old carb for them to put back on and try.

I thought the one guy on here said it was a good swap out which is why I wasted the money on one! They told me not to listen to any of the jokers on the forums . . .

I'm pretty sure that some of the "jokers" on these forums could teach your saw mechanic a thing or two.
It sounds to me like your dealer doesn't have a good idea of what he's doing.
 
Easy swap out yes but it doesn't work apparently . . . they just called me and said the intake doesn't match up at all with that carb and it will not work with that saw . . . so now I have to drop off the old carb for them to put back on and try.

I thought the one guy on here said it was a good swap out which is why I wasted the money on one! They told me not to listen to any of the jokers on the forums . . .

Interesting. Thank you for sharing, and sorry to hear about your woes. IMO, the intake port on the jug shouldn't have to match perfectly with the outlet side of the carb. That's what the intake boot is for. So long as there are no restrictions to prevent the mix from flowing from the carb into the cylinder, it should be ok. Nothing but OEM is good enough for some shops, though. My shop, as good as the guys are, would throw a tissy fit if I took a saw in with the wrong carb. They don't even like muffler mods. There's a big difference between the theoretical world and the world we live in. The shop guys sometimes reside in the theoretical world. In other words, their heads are too far in the clouds to see what is actually happening.

As for the jokers on the forums, I can see their point to an extent. You certainly have to wade the BS, the know-nothings, and the belittlers. But there are some good guys in here with good know how & experience. If you spend enough time with your saws to understand what folks are saying, then it's easy to see the idiots in the crowd, even if said idiots talk like they are expert. But again, there are actual experts in here, too. It's up to you to figure out who's who and which advise is worthy. Everybody that offered advise to you was trying to help you save some time and money. Jokers or not, they wanted the best for you. As for your shop techs, anybody giving advise to otherwise customers in order to save them money, is taking business away from the shop. Tough to keep a job as a chainsaw tech if the saw owners can work on their own stuff. So step outside a moment to put everything in perspective. A broken saw is frustrating, but holding anxiety toward folks that wanted to help does nobody any good, especially on a saw that isn't worth but $200 brand new. Good luck with your saw.
 
Impulse or possible air leak in the case maybe. Nobody's said the obvious pressure test and compression check. And no offense to you or your dealer but I've seen many cases and witnessed several Stihl dealer's who couldn't fix a sandwich. The people he's calling jokers are more knowledgeable than most dealers of any brand I've seen.
 
I'm pretty sure that some of the "jokers" on these forums could teach your saw mechanic a thing or two.
It sounds to me like your dealer doesn't have a good idea of what he's doing.

I agree . . .

Interesting. Thank you for sharing, and sorry to hear about your woes. IMO, the intake port on the jug shouldn't have to match perfectly with the outlet side of the carb. That's what the intake boot is for. So long as there are no restrictions to prevent the mix from flowing from the carb into the cylinder, it should be ok. Nothing but OEM is good enough for some shops, though. My shop, as good as the guys are, would throw a tissy fit if I took a saw in with the wrong carb. They don't even like muffler mods. There's a big difference between the theoretical world and the world we live in. The shop guys sometimes reside in the theoretical world. In other words, their heads are too far in the clouds to see what is actually happening.

As for the jokers on the forums, I can see their point to an extent. You certainly have to wade the BS, the know-nothings, and the belittlers. But there are some good guys in here with good know how & experience. If you spend enough time with your saws to understand what folks are saying, then it's easy to see the idiots in the crowd, even if said idiots talk like they are expert. But again, there are actual experts in here, too. It's up to you to figure out who's who and which advise is worthy. Everybody that offered advise to you was trying to help you save some time and money. Jokers or not, they wanted the best for you. As for your shop techs, anybody giving advise to otherwise customers in order to save them money, is taking business away from the shop. Tough to keep a job as a chainsaw tech if the saw owners can work on their own stuff. So step outside a moment to put everything in perspective. A broken saw is frustrating, but holding anxiety toward folks that wanted to help does nobody any good, especially on a saw that isn't worth but $200 brand new. Good luck with your saw.

That came out wrong . . . I didn't meant that in a derogatory way . . . I was just passing on what they said . . . they asked why I had put that carb on and I said I had heard about it on a forum.

I think I am just going to go pick the saw up and work on it some more myself . . . I definitely appreciate the help and comments on here otherwise I wouldn't ask.
 
I agree . . .



That came out wrong . . . I didn't meant that in a derogatory way . . . I was just passing on what they said . . . they asked why I had put that carb on and I said I had heard about it on a forum.

I think I am just going to go pick the saw up and work on it some more myself . . . I definitely appreciate the help and comments on here otherwise I wouldn't ask.

Good deal :rock:
 
Impulse or possible air leak in the case maybe. Nobody's said the obvious pressure test and compression check. And no offense to you or your dealer but I've seen many cases and witnessed several Stihl dealer's who couldn't fix a sandwich. The people he's calling jokers are more knowledgeable than most dealers of any brand I've seen.

Well since I switched everything over to new/used case that is a good possibility. I just wish I could find it . . . and I agree, they are the jokers for sure . . . I just wish I could figure out why it won't stay running. I don't need the saw . . . it just bugged me and I wanted to find out what the problem was. Apparently they couldn't figure out what it was so they are blaming the different carb.
 
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