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fields_mj

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I've been trying to get an 038 Mag up and running for a couple of weeks now. I ran into a problem tonight, and I need some help deciding if this thing is worth fixing or not.

Up until now it's been mostly cleaning, adjusting the carb, new starter rope and such. There were concerns early on about some marks on the piston and jug, but that's been resolved. Had a bunch of junk in the bottom of the carb that kept it from running on the low end, but that cleaned up okay and now it's ideling pretty good. Well, I got it running half way decent yesterday, but the starter rope didn't want to stay in. I pulled the cover off, and put another turn or two on the coil spring, but it didn't help. Started the saw again this evening, and broke the brand new starter rope. I had splurged and bought one of the elasto-start handles for it, and man was that rope skiny. I wasn't sure why that happened, so I looked everything over when I pulled the cover back off. I didn't notice anything screeming "Hey, look here, I'm brokend!!!" so I tied another knot in the rope, and put it all back together. It was cold mind you, and I wanted to get my gloves back on. Well, started the saw, and backed the idle speed down a little too far and the saw died. Bumped the idle speed back up half a turn, and gave the pull rope, and it came out in my hand. Broken again. So I brought everything back inside and started tearing it all down. Pulled the cover off and found that this time the Pawl had busted in half. That was odd, because it didn't look too bad before. I looked at the pully that holds the starter rope and noticed that it had some wear on teh inside like maybe the washer was missing (but it wasn't). The pully has a lip on the outside, and the inner radius of that lip had quite a bit of wear on it. It looks like the fly wheel has been rubbing on the pully and that's why the rope doesn't stay in.

At this point I started looking real hard at the fly wheel. It is missing one fin, and a small part of another, and it looks like its been that way for a long time. The outer radius of the fly wheel looks pretty rough. One corner of the ignition module has been bent where the fly wheel came in contact with it at some point. I started turning the fly wheel over by hand, and noticed that it has a fair amount of play in it. At this point I started to feel sick to my stomach, and wanted to hurt something real bad.... I pulled the sprocket off and put a wrench on both sides so that I could get the nut off the fly wheel. At this point the nut is off, but the fly wheel is stuck on the crank shaft, and I'm letting some penetraiting oil (PB Blaster) soak in. Maybe I can get it off there tomorrow some time. There's no play in the side of the crankshaft with the sprocket, but the side with the fly wheel looks to have what I would consider to be a fair amount (maybe 1/32").

At this point I'm thinking that the bearing behind the fly wheel is worn out. If so, is this worth replacing or should I consider the saw junk? Is there anything else that could be causing this?

Thanks,
Mark
 
Your flywheel side bearing sounds shot and of course the seal also. You will have to split the case to change the bearings and seals at least . No guarantee the crank would be useable or that the case is not hogged out if the bearing seized to the crank.
Pioneerguy600
 
The 038 is a great saw and worth fixing in my opinion. As for your flywhel removal there is a stihl tool that threads into the flywheel for removal.

The oem starter cord on my 038 is quite thick. From what you are saying it sounds like some starter parts are worn or broke. Mine does not have the elasto start handle.

With some patience and help from this forum you should be able to get things right with your 038.

Hang in there, it's worth fixing.
 
That bearing is probably what causing you recoil starter problems... If it has that much slop in it consider yourself lucky that the starter broke. It had to be leaking air at the bearing and would have siezed the saw if you had run it much.

Those 038s are great saws, and they will flat get the job done. I'd say yes, it's worth fixing * if * you can do the work yourself, if you have a shop do it, then I'd say no - it would probably cost you more than the saw is worth...
just my $.02
 
Hi Fields,

Consider taking all the components off the saw. Use a coffee can or a plastic bag for each area. Carb, related bolts and linkage in one bag, clutch and related in another etc.

Then when you have it all cleaned up and separated, take the crankcase to the local Stihl dealer and ask them to replace the bearings and the seals for you.

If your able, you can remove the crankshaft and just take the two halves of the case to the shop. Should save you a couple more bucks in labor over having them split the case, but only do this if you feel comfortable with it. Pick up a new set of piston rings and a gasket set for reassembly.

Finish off the job with a new clutch spring, new fuel and pulse hoses, new set of carb diaphragms and you should have a real nice new saw when your done.
 
Thanks for the quick feedback! I can do a lot of the teardown myself. I'm not sure about splitting the case though. I don't have a decent Stihl service dealer in the area, but I do have a couple of shops around that do realy good work on saws. They hate Stihl saws because its so darn hard to get the parts, but they are a TON better than any Stihl shop around these parts, and a LOT cheaper on the hour too.

I stumbled across the flywheel removal tool on line. I wondered if that was the case. I'll measure the threads on the fly wheel and turn my own tool down on a lathe.

At this point I'm just frustrated about the whole thing. I didn't spend a fortune on the saw, but I spent enough that I should have been able to run the saw for a few years with only minor repairs. I spent the money because I really needed to be able to use the saw now. Between a baby in the house, an extreemly leaky roof, and a room that is gutted to the dirt floor waiting on me to replace termite damaged sill plates, I really wasn't wanting another project.... :( Oh well, I'll quit my whining now.

The good news is that it looks like the cost for the parts isn't much. With the kind of help that folks are willing to give on here, I'm pretty sure that I can do the bulk of the work myself. I'm not looking forward to having them open up the case though. The way my luck has gone this year, they will find something else wrong.... Sorry, starting to whine again.

Looks like I be starting a lot of new threads asking questions about how to tear down an 038 :)

Thanks guys!
Mark
 
Take off the tank, clean up the crankcase, and ship it to me.. leave the cylinder, clutch and FW on. I'll split it and replace the bearings/seals for you... just pay for the parts.


BTW... the FW threads are metric.


PM me if you're interested.
 
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Take off the tank, clean up the crankcase, and ship it to me.. leave the cylinder, clutch and FW on. I'll split it and replace the bearings/seals for you... just pay for the parts.


BTW... the FW threads are metric.


PM me if you're interested.

WOW!! thats good stuff right there
 
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