Looks slow and I wonder how well it matches the cutter length on each side. Unless it centers perfectly on the bar, that chain won't be cutting straight, which is the problem I've had with every file jig I've tried.
It's pretty hard to beat Husqvarna's roller guide sharpeners IMO. Cheap, simple, and with a little practice they're nearly as accurate as a file jig. Plus they have a plate to file depth gauges, and it gets them at the right angle. I can sharpen a chain in the field in a couple minutes. Then every 3-5 hand sharpenings, it gets trued up on my grinder, which is a $100 chinese knockoff of Oregon's grinder. $130 for a bar-mounted contraption with no adjustments? Pfffft!
Don't knock it you haven't tried it. :msp_tongue:
Now, I have absolutely nothing to do with this Co., but Have been quite satisfied with the product and support. I really think this sharpener is worth a try.
I can sharpen by hand, but as I matured, (read that as got old), I switched to the roller guide you spoke of. I thought it did a bang up job. In fact I never found it necessary to true up the chain on my grinder. I really didn't like like using the grinder, with the exception of rocked chains. I now, after using the Timberline, think the Husky guide does a mediocre job. It allows the saw to cut just...OK. The Timberline probably gets as close to a factory edge as reasonably possible.
As others have stated, take a chain that you think is sharpened quite good with the roller guide, and put the Timberline sharpener on it. I, too, could not believe how different the teeth were from each other. Really opened my eyes.
As far as the cutter length from side to side, It does a fine job. I'm still measuring a tooth here and there, just to ogle what a good job
"I" have done.:msp_ohmy:
I have run up on some minor problems, and most of these problems are with the length, and the file hitting the "flapper" that the tooth is backed up to. Seem not all chains are built the same, even though they might look it. Not hard to work around...and once you figure out a way that works, all the teeth on that side are uniform.
As far as raker depth is concerned, you can still use any gauge you want. I still use a gauge. but do to the uniformity of the teeth, I think that a grinder could be set up and easily do the job.
As far as speed is concerned, once a chain has been sharpened with the Timberline, the sharpening is quite fast. I sit down and day dream or listen to the radio. I know that I can sharpen a chain in less time than using the guide. I have moderate arthritis in my hands. Enough for them to be crooked, and painful. With the Timberline, I find it much easier to sharpen. I have put a larger ball on the handle, and this also adds to the ease of use for me.
I should add that I use mostly 20" chains, and don't believe I have ever sharpened by hand in a couple of minutes.
You mentioned the price...Yeah, it's not cheap. And, keep in mind that I still think in 1950-1960 prices. (Gasoline for a quarter a gal.) So I didn't purchase this gadget without some research, and gut feelings. "You pays you money, and you takes your chances." This one, is a win for me.
