New Echo cs-590 won't start
- Thread starter Leastbay
- Start date
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No , not the L screw . The screw that controls the opening position of the butterfly . That’s 2 3/8 in from the point it just starts to open the butterfly .
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
I wonder what was wrong with the first one.
Junk in the carb, probably.
That’s pretty unusual, I think. CliffR mentioned he had one too..
Well it’s nice that your new new saw works!!
It’s a pretty decent saw. You’ll like it.
Junk in the carb, probably.
That’s pretty unusual, I think. CliffR mentioned he had one too..
Well it’s nice that your new new saw works!!
It’s a pretty decent saw. You’ll like it.
Cliff says he has had the saws he has dealt with running lean from factory and this is what I hear about the most happening, the two I have dealt with where running rich from factory and loading up during idle till they stalled.
I say if the saw you just got is running decent run it at that until the rings seat then try adjusting to get the saw to where it is running best. I have noticed that both the saws I dealt with where running around 1K+ under max at WOT from the factory so I set them at around 12,400 until the rings seated then ran them up to 12,900 and haven't had any issue's with the saws.
Also when you try to start the saw cold, pull choke out try three times pulling the rope POP OR NO POP push the choke back in and try starting from there, these saws will flood fast when the choke is pulled, usually I give them two pulls then put the choke back in and they start fine from there if they didn't try to pop on the first or second pull.
I say if the saw you just got is running decent run it at that until the rings seat then try adjusting to get the saw to where it is running best. I have noticed that both the saws I dealt with where running around 1K+ under max at WOT from the factory so I set them at around 12,400 until the rings seated then ran them up to 12,900 and haven't had any issue's with the saws.
Also when you try to start the saw cold, pull choke out try three times pulling the rope POP OR NO POP push the choke back in and try starting from there, these saws will flood fast when the choke is pulled, usually I give them two pulls then put the choke back in and they start fine from there if they didn't try to pop on the first or second pull.
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
D
Deleted member 149229
Guest
Have you noticed an albatross flying around you?
Nope. I didn't touch anything on this saw either. Took it out the box, put tru fuel and that's it. Ran for 5 mins yesterday nothing today. The ignition doesn't have enough power to put a spark through the plug. Only a small amount straight from the wire. Wth.
Possibly pinched a wire when swapping the carb?
"That’s pretty unusual, I think. CliffR mentioned he had one too.."
In the past 25 years or so I've had one Echo product that had a bad coil, and it was a recently purchased (2-3 years old) leaf blower.
All of the CS-590, 600's and 620's we've bought/sold or set-up for customers have been flawless in all areas to date.
I did have a little trouble with my own 600P recently after purchasing it, may have been some trash in the carb as it would idle a little "quirky" and nearly stall if you left it sit for a minute or two idling after making a cut while you moved limbs and such. Took the carb apart and cleaned it out, cleaned the fuel tank, never had any issues with it since. My 600P is an "oddball" unit, early serial number and the IPL shows a different P/C and coil than is used on the CS-590's or 620's.
I'm getting close to doing some testing between my 590, 600 and 620PW, just waiting for some cooler weather to move it, been WAY too hot here for any of that sort of thing but cooler weather shouldn't be too far off.
As far as removing the limiter caps, modifying them and putting them back in place I started taking a sharp scribe and very gently prying them off the screws instead of engaging them with a sharp drywall screw and pulling them. If you don't mind the extra effort it doesn't leave any evidence they were tampered with and doesn't move them from the original orientation. Not really a big deal but just in case there would be a warranty issue the new owner could take it to a dealer and they would be able to see any evidence of tampering.
I'll also mention here that the CS-590's continue to show up WAY too lean to be ran right out of the box, but the 620's aren't really that far off. Not sure why this happens unless the 620 platform is more efficient and meeting EPA guidelines without being set so lean. The last CS-620PW I set-up happened to be my own, and it was just about spot-on right out of the box. I had to fatten up the "L" screw about 1/8 turn and the "H" screw is pretty much where Echo had it. In contrast the last CS-590 I did wouldn't even run at the factory settings until fully warmed up and heat soaked, and even then it was WAY too lean on both the "L" and "H" screws for my liking. I can see why we see a decent amount of "smoked" P/C's with the CS-590's and seldom (if ever) see a CS-620 show up on Ebay (CL or anywhere else) "for parts" due to lean seize or other issues related to running too lean.......Cliff
In the past 25 years or so I've had one Echo product that had a bad coil, and it was a recently purchased (2-3 years old) leaf blower.
All of the CS-590, 600's and 620's we've bought/sold or set-up for customers have been flawless in all areas to date.
I did have a little trouble with my own 600P recently after purchasing it, may have been some trash in the carb as it would idle a little "quirky" and nearly stall if you left it sit for a minute or two idling after making a cut while you moved limbs and such. Took the carb apart and cleaned it out, cleaned the fuel tank, never had any issues with it since. My 600P is an "oddball" unit, early serial number and the IPL shows a different P/C and coil than is used on the CS-590's or 620's.
I'm getting close to doing some testing between my 590, 600 and 620PW, just waiting for some cooler weather to move it, been WAY too hot here for any of that sort of thing but cooler weather shouldn't be too far off.
As far as removing the limiter caps, modifying them and putting them back in place I started taking a sharp scribe and very gently prying them off the screws instead of engaging them with a sharp drywall screw and pulling them. If you don't mind the extra effort it doesn't leave any evidence they were tampered with and doesn't move them from the original orientation. Not really a big deal but just in case there would be a warranty issue the new owner could take it to a dealer and they would be able to see any evidence of tampering.
I'll also mention here that the CS-590's continue to show up WAY too lean to be ran right out of the box, but the 620's aren't really that far off. Not sure why this happens unless the 620 platform is more efficient and meeting EPA guidelines without being set so lean. The last CS-620PW I set-up happened to be my own, and it was just about spot-on right out of the box. I had to fatten up the "L" screw about 1/8 turn and the "H" screw is pretty much where Echo had it. In contrast the last CS-590 I did wouldn't even run at the factory settings until fully warmed up and heat soaked, and even then it was WAY too lean on both the "L" and "H" screws for my liking. I can see why we see a decent amount of "smoked" P/C's with the CS-590's and seldom (if ever) see a CS-620 show up on Ebay (CL or anywhere else) "for parts" due to lean seize or other issues related to running too lean.......Cliff
Mystic96
New Member
I have a new CS600P out of box and cannot get this to start, not even sputter. Plug is showing fuel, tried new plug and did the plug against head and dont not see any spark at all. As they dont sell this model any more here in US i really would like to get it running but very disappointed in ECHO. My cs-303T works great out of box. Any advice would be appreciated. I have not done anything to carb.
RED-85-Z51
Addicted to ArboristSite
I worked for a high volume echo dealer for 3 years and set up many hundreds of saws in addition to their other products...never had any issues and only replaced 1 bad coil on a pb250ln blower.
Echo has set pricing for online, dealers and box stores but the only way to get one prepped is thru a dealer...this is why you should use a dealer. Also, 5 year warranty...use it
Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
Echo has set pricing for online, dealers and box stores but the only way to get one prepped is thru a dealer...this is why you should use a dealer. Also, 5 year warranty...use it
Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
Cliff and Ray, I have just run into this with a CS-590 that has quite a few hours on it. I checked the fuel filter (OK) the fuel line (OK), and the strainer in the carb is clear. It ran yesterday and today it ran OK at WOT but would not idle or accelerate without major hesitation. The plug is dry as a bone as if no fuel is getting to the combustion chamber, even though the fuel line was packed wih fuel and under pressure as I removed the carb.
Could be that the carb is bad, but the plastic limiters do not allow adjustment ro permit more fuel intake. I say that the engine is starved for fuel and the carb won't feed it. Before spending 100 bucks for a new carb, I intend to do what Cliff R did -- remove the limiters with an ice pick and try again. I have yet another strategy to try before that, but If both fail, I''ll likely buy a new carb to save this saw. Compression is excellent and all other parts work very well. The owner who gave it to me to save loves it, but his dealer's mechanic gave up. I have yet to give up.
Bingo! I cleaned up the carb and then removed the two red plastic limiters using an ice pick, as Cliff described in post #53. After reassembling, I opened up the hi-speed setscrew an additional 1/2 turn and the low-speed an additional full turn. Then I adjusted the idle speed. This CS-590 Timberwolf runs as it is supposed to with good acceleration and power.
I have also run into this with Echo top-handle saws in the past. It seems as running hours are added to the engine, the carbs start leaning out. Not sure why, but the fix is almost always to enrichen the fuel mixture, and if limiters are there, they have to be removed.
I have also run into this with Echo top-handle saws in the past. It seems as running hours are added to the engine, the carbs start leaning out. Not sure why, but the fix is almost always to enrichen the fuel mixture, and if limiters are there, they have to be removed.
The limiters need to be removed and tuned good before you run it in wood. Steve
That is exactly what I did and reported in Post #57.
I was going to agree with your first post but wanted cliff a chance to chime in
Ive had it happen to a 770 backpack blower after bad gas it wouldn't rev up sent to mechanic and he had to clean and reset the carb settings past stock
Also had it happen to a cheap homelite blower drove my pops crazy trying to get it to run right had to snap the carb adjustment limiter off too
Have also seen some equipment need carb readjusted after break in for maximum performance ymmv
