New guy, have a burned up MS180

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Thank you all for the help.

Ordered a clutch and bearing from Huztl on the way. Will report back when I get it back together.
 
Finally tore into this thing. Wife and I had a baby, shop was a disaster, but after getting nothing done for a year or so, I've finally gotten the shop cleaned out where I can work, and in the process, found this saw again.


I ordered a replacement case and clutch from Huztl, which was pretty straightforward and the saw went back together on the new case without much trouble. The tag from the repair estimate on it said 2015, so looks like it's been sitting for 4-5 years. I took the carb apart, soaked it in Berryman's, blew out all the orifices, and put it back together. The gaskets were pretty dried out looking, and I needed a new fuel line too, so I ordered a tune-up kit off of ebay that consisted of a replacement oil pump, oil line, fuel line, air filter, and carb, figuring I could use the fuel line and the rest would be spares.



Got it together early this morning. Wouldn't fire off. Shot of starter fluid, and it fired off till the fluid burned off. Took carb back off, everything inside the carb still looked dry (no fuel). Blew a shot of air into the fuel line to make sure it was clear, and fuel came back out from the pressure in the tank, so put carb back on. Same thing. Took carb back off, tried the ebay carb. At this point the saw fired off and ran, but was idled WAY up, and when I hit the throttle it bogged down. Took ebay carb back off, took gaskets and diaphram out of that one, put them in the original Zama/Stihl carb. Nothing. Not even a burp. Took the stuff back off, put it back on the ebay carb, and reinstalled. Nothing. So at this point I have two carbs, and neither of them will even get this saw to burp at me. It will fire off on starter fluid, so it's a fuel delivery problem. The small jet in the body of the carb is clear.



I also had the exact same problem on Dad's old Homelite XL. I messed with it for a bit, and then put it back up when I got my 346XP and haven't brought it back out to try again on it, but it pretty much did the same thing as this MS180.

I work on ATV's and old Jeeps all the time, so I'm pretty comfy working on carbs, but these tiny things are like working on a wristwatch. Any suggestions?
 
Hopefully you can figure out the lack of fuel issue.

I also use starter fluid (carburetor cleaner fluid works just as well) when starting engine which has been unused for long period, but I only do it on 4 - stroke engines since they have some lubrication, at least for the bearings.

I try to avoid using this method on a 2 - stroke engines since there is no lubrication at all if done that way.

This may not be a big concern with your MS180, however a small amount of 2- stroke oil & gasoline mixture in a spray pump bottle would take care of that issue.
Yes, I am aware of the fire danger and do it outside in either case!

Cheers!
 
Didnt look at the IPL, bit it sounds like you mean the intake boot from the carb to the cylinder is split. If so, it will suck air and it wont run. Need to replace that.
 
Well it's not the actual boot. There's a little plastic ring that sits in the boot right in the middle on the carb side. That little plastic ring split. The actual rubber manifold itself looks fine.

It's the white ring in the middle of the boot in the pic.
 

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That little ring is there to help keep the rubber from puckering and moving, etc..

But shouldn't be something that would cause my no-start issues, right?

I just ordered one along with a carb kit. Have the OEM carb soaking in Berrymans again. Will put new innards in it and see if that changes anything.

Any other suggestions on this thing? Probably already put too much time into it given that it's a 180, but thus far I have about $40 in it including that spacer and a carb kit I just ordered.
 
Maybe you haven’t gotten the impulse line aligned with the cylinder.

be really careful to put that manifold on correctly, align the impulse line (which is inside the manifold) up with the impulse opening and slip it all together, very easy to misalign. It and it won’t send impulses to the fuel pump side of the carby.

jeep just a friendly warning, learn from my mistake, don’t go too far in with cash on these small saws. You’ll end up spending loads and it may still not work. The OEM parts are very expensive (I won’t touch Chinese parts after they let me down so many times) and using China parts will cause you more problems. You’ll chase your tail!
 
Here are the throttle parts involved, the ring you are talking about is white.

View attachment 793087

Yep, that's it. I have gotten dang good at taking the carb on and off, lol.

When I moved the manifold from the OEM case to the Huztl case, that ring broke when I tried to pull it out of the manifold. I stuck it in there with the crack in it. Surely that couldn't be my problem.

What really has thrown me for a loop is that the saw ran with the ebay carb on it, but I took it back off because it wasn't running right (which didn't surprise me with an aftermarket carb), but then when I put it back on I got nothing.
 
You are not using that green paper gasket, are you?

Initially I did, but then I took it out because when I took the saw apart there wasn't one in there.

Maybe you haven’t gotten the impulse line aligned with the cylinder.

be really careful to put that manifold on correctly, align the impulse line (which is inside the manifold) up with the impulse opening and slip it all together, very easy to misalign. It and it won’t send impulses to the fuel pump side of the carby.

Now that is a very good possibility. Is there a pic of what you're referring to? I just put the manifold in there. Didn't do anything as far as lining it up.
 
Ah, so that tiny hole on the manifold side of the carb needs to line up with the hole the intake manifold (apparently where the little tab with a hole in it is on that sleeve I mentioned)?
 
Maybe you haven’t gotten the impulse line aligned with the cylinder.

be really careful to put that manifold on correctly, align the impulse line (which is inside the manifold) up with the impulse opening and slip it all together, very easy to misalign. It and it won’t send impulses to the fuel pump side of the carby.

jeep just a friendly warning, learn from my mistake, don’t go too far in with cash on these small saws. You’ll end up spending loads and it may still not work. The OEM parts are very expensive (I won’t touch Chinese parts after they let me down so many times) and using China parts will cause you more problems. You’ll chase your tail!

Oh, I'm the king of spending twice what something is worth getting it going again. My OCD will worry me on minor details that get pricey, and I always end up with more in these things than they're worth.

That said, that's how I learn to tinker on them. Lord knows it's easier now than it was before the interwebs and forums like this. I rebuilt my first Honda Foreman motor down to the crank with help from guys on an ATV forum. Now I've got about a dozen "project" ATV's in the back of the lot. LOL
 
Thanks for the help guys. Yall have given me some stuff to check.

I'll look it over in the morning before work and report back with what I find.
 

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