New SpeedPro Kinetic Log Splitter from TSC...

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csmith

csmith

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what next

I was splitting with my speedpro yesterday . noticed the rack was making a grinding noise. took the splitter apart and found the cam bolt bent. the cam stop was also bent.has anyone else had this happen?
 
sunfish

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I was splitting with my speedpro yesterday . noticed the rack was making a grinding noise. took the splitter apart and found the cam bolt bent. the cam stop was also bent.has anyone else had this happen?

This thread is full of bent and broken parts. Best thing you can do is slow the machine down with a smaller drive pulley. Then start replacing parts with higher quality parts. This is if you can't get your money back.
 
Dozer Man

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This thread is full of bent and broken parts. Best thing you can do is slow the machine down with a smaller drive pulley. Then start replacing parts with higher quality parts. This is if you can't get your money back.


At the very least, slow the throttle down to where you are running slightly faster than the engagement rpm!! I believe that is somewhere between 2200-2700 rpm. Until someone changes the drive pulley size, or installs a jackshaft, this is the only option you have to slow these things down. Or...run it wfo and see how long before it self-destructs.

Oh yeah, and don't forget to lubricate.
 
csmith

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At the very least, slow the throttle down to where you are running slightly faster than the engagement rpm!! I believe that is somewhere between 2200-2700 rpm. Until someone changes the drive pulley size, or installs a jackshaft, this is the only option you have to slow these things down. Or...run it wfo and see how long before it self-destructs.

Oh yeah, and don't forget to lubricate.

engine rpm was 2500, clutch lubricated,rack greased
 
jtmcclain

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Speedpro's rebuild kit included a new cam, cam bolt, and rack, along with grease for the rack. I think they are aware of the bolts bending but there is not much they can do about it besides give you a new bolt. The cam stop on mine bent also. It is a spot welded in rod. You can beat it out with a hammer. A 3/8" bolt is a direct replacement.

It looks to me like the double pulley on the speedpro clutch is cast as one piece, so I am going to take it in to work and try to turn it down to make a shaft that I can mount smaller pulleys to. It's worth a shot.
 
Dozer Man

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waiting to see what speeco is going to do . if they want to produce a quality product they will fix this .if they want to walk away i will get a refund .

They are going to keep giving warranty parts till the warranty runs out, which I believe is a year from the retrofit. Parts for future use, or the lack of, was a big scare for me. I didn't buy this machine as a 2 to 4 year project! I bought it to split wood until the motor was worn out and then put a new motor on it and keep splitting. Granted, I knew there would be maintanance items, just not these kind of issues.

From what I've heard from reading this thread, and talking to speeco, they want to be in the kinetic splitter business. On the other hand, TSC does not. TSC is washing there hands of this machine to the point that they have givin a full refund and are still giving a full refund even after a year. Maybe someday another retailer will market a speeco kinetic splitter. Bet it won't be called SpeedPro. So my guess is they already have there walking shoes on for this one.

Hope there check clears... LOL
 
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csmith

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Speedpro's rebuild kit included a new cam, cam bolt, and rack, along with grease for the rack. I think they are aware of the bolts bending but there is not much they can do about it besides give you a new bolt. The cam stop on mine bent also. It is a spot welded in rod. You can beat it out with a hammer. A 3/8" bolt is a direct replacement.

It looks to me like the double pulley on the speedpro clutch is cast as one piece, so I am going to take it in to work and try to turn it down to make a shaft that I can mount smaller pulleys to. It's worth a shot.

if it is solid why not turn down to a smaller pulley?
 
TFPace

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CS,

if it is solid why not turn down to a smaller pulley?
The isn't enough material to do that in my opinion. I will take one apart and post some photos. There just may be enough material the remove the existing pulley and use an off the shelf (OTS) 1.75" or 2.00" pulley and bore the OTS pulley the fit the clutch and weld back in place along with set screws.
 
jtmcclain

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CS,


The isn't enough material to do that in my opinion. I will take one apart and post some photos. There just may be enough material the remove the existing pulley and use an off the shelf (OTS) 1.75" or 2.00" pulley and bore the OTS pulley the fit the clutch and weld back in place along with set screws.

I have to agree after taking the clutch off the motor. May have to go with a jackshaft design.
 
vinced

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I don't have one of these splitters, but have been reading about the problems with them. I too think the flywheel shafts are running to fast. Here is an idea. Could you turn down the clutch pulley where the belt rides? This would make the belt ride down lower in the pulley. I would think if you have enough room to turn the pulley down to a shaft and mount a different pulley, you'd have enough room to turn down the belt surface. Could someone post a picture of this clutch pulley??
 
schaaed1

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Thanks Sunfish & Kiwi !!!

Talk about a major flaw. It amazes me that this size difference wasn't caught when this machine was "reverse engineered in China or where-ever it was done.

Might not have been caught in China .... but we had big discussions on this flaw and tried to point it out to the Speeco reps (I even think someone called the engineering dept). This was all before Speeco decided that the racks were the issue and not the speed ... heck just a guess but that was probably around page 10-15 of this thread.
 
TFPace

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I don't have one of these splitters, but have been reading about the problems with them. I too think the flywheel shafts are running to fast. Here is an idea. Could you turn down the clutch pulley where the belt rides? This would make the belt ride down lower in the pulley. I would think if you have enough room to turn the pulley down to a shaft and mount a different pulley, you'd have enough room to turn down the belt surface. Could someone post a picture of this clutch pulley??

Vince,

I'll try to snap some pictures tomorrow. The problem with your idea, albeit an excellent one , is that the 2-vee pulley that is part of clutch assembly bearing housing. If this make any since. To turn a small drive pulley would in my opinion compromise the integrity of the clutch. The clutch that Speeco used is quite different than the USA clutches I am familiar with.

Look for some pictures tomorrow.

Tom
 
vinced

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Vince,

I'll try to snap some pictures tomorrow. The problem with your idea, albeit an excellent one , is that the 2-vee pulley that is part of clutch assembly bearing housing. If this make any since. To turn a small drive pulley would in my opinion compromise the integrity of the clutch. The clutch that Speeco used is quite different than the USA clutches I am familiar with.

Look for some pictures tomorrow.

Tom

If the clutch has the part where the pulley rides on on the OD of the clutch drum, then I can see why you can't turn them down. I would bet SuperSpliter is using a chain sprocket clutch drum and turning it down for a pulley.
 
car guy

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speed problem

i called dr order there clutch part # 29462 bolted on no problems. engine speed at 2800 rpms pinion gear 261 rpms total cycle time 2 sec. only thing is if jams you have to manually disengage handle clutch will slip
 

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