New Stihl MS250 - Chain dulls too quickly

[RVC]

Good evening all who may read this. Recently hurricane Irma came through my part of Florida and left a lot of fallen oak in my yard. I purchased a new MS250 and love it. I dulled the first two chains (18 inch) very quickly through my own ignorance by not monitoring the chain oil reservoir. The chains ran dry resulting in sparks off the bottom of the blade, dull chains and a discolored blade. Now with the oil reservoir full the 3rd chain still dulled quickly - like after maybe 15 minutes of use.

All chains I have used were new 18" Stihl 26RM3 (3689 005 0063). The only thing I can think of causing the quick dulling is the bottom of the blade has been damaged in some way which causes further damage to the chain. I do not let the chain come into contact with sand or anything else except oak.

If anyone could point me to a way to keeping the chain sharper, longer I would appreciate it. These thing aren't cheap!

Thanks.

RVC

 

[moondoggie]

Good evening all who may read this. Recently hurricane Irma came through my part of Florida and left a lot of fallen oak in my yard. I purchased a new MS250 and love it. I dulled the first two chains (18 inch) very quickly through my own ignorance by not monitoring the chain oil reservoir. The chains ran dry resulting in sparks off the bottom of the blade, dull chains and a discolored blade. Now with the oil reservoir full the 3rd chain still dulled quickly - like after maybe 15 minutes of use.

All chains I have used were new 18" Stihl 26RM3 (3689 005 0063). The only thing I can think of causing the quick dulling is the bottom of the blade has been damaged in some way which causes further damage to the chain. I do not let the chain come into contact with sand or anything else except oak.

If anyone could point me to a way to keeping the chain sharper, longer I would appreciate it. These thing aren't cheap!

Thanks.

RVC

Don't hit the dirt ever ever ever with the chain.

 

[Rick Hammer]

If your saw is dull,i would bet that it is because you are getting it into some silt possibly?Many times if your cutting where there was flood waters,there is a good possibility that the tree bark gets silt,or very fine particles into the wood bark that you might not even be aware of.Take a look at your chain,the tooth and look and see if it is dull,also see if it has been chipped, or if it is dull.You can tell just by looking at it whether it was rock or fine silt .Even if you hit something ,take a file and clean them up.you shouldn't have to go through chain that fast and unless your really hitting rock or nails you should get quite a few sharpenings per chain.,and that does not seem to be what has happened.

 

[paco_06]

You don't need to replace a chain just because it's dull. Get a 5/32 file and sharpen it. Every 2-3 sharpening , take one pass off the cleaners just in front of the tooth with a flat bastard file. Hopefully you didn't hurt the bar running it dry. Try flipping it over and see if that helps.

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[Rick Hammer]

You don't need to replace a chain just because it's dull. Get a 5/32 file and sharpen it. Every 2-3 sharpening , take one pass off the cleaners just in front of the tooth with a flat bastard file. Hopefully you didn't hurt the bar running it dry. Try flipping it over and see if that helps.

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[Rick Hammer]

It seems that his rakers should be pretty good for being brand new chain,but ,your right a couple swipes with the flat file as long as it is not safety chain on that little 18 inch bar.He has to quit rototilling with that chain lol

 

[BC WetCoast]

You can't dull the chain running it out of oil. The oil only affects the part where the chain touches the bar and not where the teeth do the cutting. As noted above, you've been cutting dirt, either debris in the bark of the tree or burying the nose in the ground.

There are lots of vids around how to file a chain. To get the best results as a newby, use a vise and wear your reading glasses if you need them.

If you are cutting logs sittting on the ground, pay attention to where the tip of the bar is (always knowing where your tip is, is good advice for all young guys).

 

[ray benson]

26rm use a 3/16" file. Any metal in the wood? Sand or dirt in the bark ?

 

[RVC]

Thank you all for the input. I have given my best shot at keeping the chain out of the sand but perhaps I slipped a time or two. In any event it looks like now I need to learn how to file the chain which will be my next learning project.

RVC

 

[Stihl 041S]

26rm use a 3/16" file. Any metal in the wood? Sand or dirt in the bark ?

I've done cleanup down there and Ray is right.

Sand everywhere. And a ton in the bark.

Chipper better than chisel for that stuff.

 

[Little Al]

Learn how to or get your chains sharpened Flip your bar every 2 or so sharpenings & try to the best you can to keep the chain out of the dirt I think from your post you are using a semi chisel chain but if not the next you buy get a semi chisel better for dirty wood but even they won't cut sand/dirt.

 

[RVC]

Not sure what a chipper or a chisel is. I assume this refers to a type of chain. My 520 is only a month old so the chain type is what ever came with it. Bought if from Rural King here in Central Florida. I don't know what dirty wood is. Looks pretty clean to me especially with all the rain that came with the hurricane, but what do I know. Thanks.

RVC

 

[capetrees]

Just had a friend in the same situation.
Keep in mind, the chain may be still sharp but if you've run the bar without oil for some time you may have worn the bar to the point that it's begun to flair out along the edges, the chain is now thinner and won't cut a wide enough kerf in the wood for the bar to follow.
Keep the chain slack enough on the bar that the lower guides on the chain stay in the bar but have enough free play to slide along the bar freely by hand. (when the saw is OFF!) Keep your holes in the bar clear of debris so the oil can flow to the bar. They're located toward the back of the bar, back toward the sprocket. Every hole on the bar is there for a reason.
Keep the saw out of the dirt. Anything other that wood dulls a chain very fast.

 

[jefflovstrom]

You could use a carbide impregnated chain.
Jeff

 

[blades]

silca /dirt + excessive wind= sandblast cabinet on gaint scale- bark is imprgenated with it, simple rain will not wash away.

 

[Little Al]

Not sure what a chipper or a chisel is. I assume this refers to a type of chain. My 520 is only a month old so the chain type is what ever came with it. Bought if from Rural King here in Central Florida. I don't know what dirty wood is. Looks pretty clean to me especially with all the rain that came with the hurricane, but what do I know. Thanks.

RVC

Oregon do /or did a small booklet describing the type & styles of their chain range safety through to square ground if you can pick up one & have a read it will become a lot more understandable for you

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Just had a friend in the same situation.
Keep in mind, the chain may be still sharp but if you've run the bar without oil for some time you may have worn the bar to the point that it's begun to flair out along the edges, the chain is now thinner and won't cut a wide enough kerf in the wood for the bar to follow.
Keep the chain slack enough on the bar that the lower guides on the chain stay in the bar but have enough free play to slide along the bar freely by hand. (when the saw is OFF!) Keep your holes in the bar clear of debris so the oil can flow to the bar. They're located toward the back of the bar, back toward the sprocket. Every hole on the bar is there for a reason.
Keep the saw out of the dirt. Anything other that wood dulls a chain very fast.

Just to add. Bar starts to curl over on edges and slows your cut way down, as stated chain not cutting wide enough kerf (groove) bar gouges into wood. You need to dress your bar, if you do not have the dressing tool, use a flat file, clean up edges and file rails flat. Sand is a chain killer.