New to milling

[wooderson15]

Hey Guys and gals,
I have been using the site as a reading resource for quite some time now and figured I might as well join. Just starting into milling lumber, we've got about 14 acres of land and lots of wind falls. I've currently got too much firewood so I figured the next best (and more fun thing) to do would be to pick up a chainsaw mill and start playing around. Just picked up a Granberg Mark IV 36" mill........my Husqvarna 346 XP didn't quite cut it......which may or may not have been intentional, so I've got a 390XP on the way. Looking forward to learning how the whole milling thing works out and sharing some of my work.
Cheers,
Chris

 

[rarefish383]

Welcome Chris. Some basics you already read about. Sharp chain, elevate one end, sharp chain, use guide rails on every cut, sharp chain.Even with everything set up right, it's still work, don't get discouraged, and did I mention, keep your chains sharp.

 

[wooderson15]

Thanks!
The only thing I really don't have yet is a good rail set up. For now I will probably use some 8' 2X4 on end with level end plates. I debated picking up the easy rails from granberg but they seemed a bit pricey.

 

[babybart]

I just found an old aluminum ladder at a yard sale, use it for every cut. It makes the start and finish transition smoother.

 

[wooderson15]

Thanks,
I'll try and find something at a garage or yard sale.
I am waiting on a brand new saw, I am wondering if you guys recommend breaking it on off of a mill first before I start using it for milling? I've got a 29" red oak to mill up but plan on using it for a kitchen table at our hunting camp so I want it to turn out good if I can.

 

[buttercup]

 

[djones]

Welcome to the land of crazy millers. I would run a few tanks of fuel through the new saw before putting it on a mill. I would also find an old straight ladder about 14ft to use as a guide. I have rigged up 2 one inch angle iron bars as the attaching points for the ladder onto the log for my first cuts. I have drilled holes in the angle irons at different spacing on the side that attaches to the log and I screw a couple of 3" sheetrock screws parallel with the grain. This keeps the ladder from twisting. A wedge somewhere in the middle may be used to take any drooping out of the ladder. Your saw and mill have enough weight to cause a bow in the ladder if you don't keep an eye on it. This is only for the first cut, thereafter the log itself is all you need. It's hard to attach a ladder with screws through a rung and cut 1" planks without nicking the saw on a screw. Been there, done that. A winch also helps pull the saw through the wood with less strain.. Make sure to take pics and let us see your progress. Good luck.

 

[wooderson15]

Buttercup, your set up is where I am at for my rails. I have a nice straight 2X8 that I have played around with just using my 346XP with a 20" bar on some smaller logs. My new milling rig just showed up in the mail today. I ran one tank of fuel through it chunking up some firewood and will run a few more through it before I start milling just to break it in. Quite a step up in power saws for me going from the 346 to the 390XP. Will post up some pics once I start milling with it and and hope to get some feedback, good and the bad on what my set up looks like.

 

[Trever]

Thanks!
The only thing I really don't have yet is a good rail set up. For now I will probably use some 8' 2X4 on end with level end plates. I debated picking up the easy rails from granberg but they seemed a bit pricey.

I used 2" tube that was scrap and scrap 3/16" plates. Cut the plate slots at the same time to match them. They work pretty well so far. This idea was from the Lure of the North YouTube page. Welcome to the site and milling; you'll constantly be upgrading/ modifying your setup and mill!!

 

[kimosawboy]

You might want to look into to Unistrut/ slotted channel for rails... Cheap and can get it up to 20' pc.

 

[djg james]

You might want to look into to Unistrut/ slotted channel for rails... Cheap and can get it up to 20' pc.

Looks like that's what he's using (without the slots).

 

[Trever]

Looks like that's what he's using (without the slots).

Yep, I am using the solid uni strut. Check a local scrap steel yard if you have any near by. Our scrap is around .35 a pound here in Athens TN.

 

[Trever]

My mill (GB Lumbermill) uses the 1 5/8" solid uni strut for rails. Makes it nice when I want to extend the length. GB no longer makes the mills.

 

[wooderson15]

Trevor, what are the dimensions on your plates? My neighbour has some 1/4" X 4" plate stock and can cut it to whatever length I need. He also has some 1-1/2" square steel tube. Im hoping it would be stiff enough over a 10' span which is all I want.

 

[Trever]

All of it should work fine. 16" should work for a mill 36" or so. I would space a little wider for longer mills. On longer mills you will need to weight the opposite end down from the powerhead. It will try to rise on you while you cut. I might get some longer plates to help with this. Also, I will trim some of the bottom edge off. My plates are a little to tall. 4" sounds pretty good. You could always use 2x material screwed to the plate(s) for taller height of needed depending on log taper. I hope this helps.

 

[buttercup]

Buttercup, your set up is where I am at for my rails. I have a nice straight 2X8 that I have played around with just using my 346XP with a 20" bar on some smaller logs. My new milling rig just showed up in the mail today. I ran one tank of fuel through it chunking up some firewood and will run a few more through it before I start milling just to break it in. Quite a step up in power saws for me going from the 346 to the 390XP. Will post up some pics once I start milling with it and and hope to get some feedback, good and the bad on what my set up looks like.

View attachment 827449View attachment 827450

That's awesome! Wouldn't want to wear out that nice 346 on milling, your new gem should be perfect for the job - nice bar too.