Newbie, with a bunch of old Husky L65's

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Rx7man

Cattle Rubbing Post
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Well, I've been lurking around here a while, read all 18 pages of the porting thread by Pepsifreak, and got a lot of information from it, so I decided to tackle one of my old Husky L65's.. They're just about 40 years old, I have 2 runners and a parts saw, and know of another parts saw my neighbor has. The parts saw wasn't running worth a darn, which is why it started getting robbed of parts, so i figured I might as well have some fun with the jug and piston. Both our running saws have 24" bars.
I'm not a newcomer to porting, I've done a lot of it from Cummins Diesels to (of course) Rx7's, and especially in the rotary engines the power gains are AWESOME. My last one with Weber carbs started to really wake up around 5500 RPM and was immensely fun on dirt roads :)

I measured the squish first, with no gasket it was a .022", on one machine, and about -.010" on another (wouldn't turn over), luckily for me that was the parts crankcase so I didn't worry about it.
I hogged out the exhaust port a fair bit in width, probably was able to get 5mm extra, didn't mess with the port timing at all, and haven't port matched the muffler yet. Transfer port runners I port matched to the crankcase and cleaned up pretty nicely, then ran a little strip of emery cloth through them. Intake port I got rid of the stud bosses that really protruded into the intake runner, and widened them a fair bit, the ring never comes into the intake port so I wasn't too concerned there, and I blended it all in nicely with the intake. I ordered 2 new piston rings (while I can still get them!), one for each saw, but since it'll be a week or two before I see them, I couldn't resist putting it back together and firing it up. The ring on the parts saw had nearly .080" end gap, and the one that I had apart had about .050" end gap.. I'm certain that's FAR too much.. The cylinder of the parts saw also had a little score mark, but not bad, that's the one I tested my porting skills on, and that's the one I put on, saving the other jug for the next porting attempt, it's in mint condition, and so is the piston (maybe a little much ring clearance for the anally retentive).

So I fired it up and I certainly notice an increase in power, It was rated at 3.8hp, I figure it was down to 3.5 from the worn ring (that's still in there), but i think I'm probably back to 'new' or better. I took the saw apart that had the least compression of the 2 runners, and the more worn one definitely revs much better (probably +2000 rpm). Once the new rings are in and I don't have .050" end gap, I think those saws will be restored to their former glory and then some.. Makes me actually look forward to cutting firewood again. I was thinking of getting a new saw, but perhaps these will do for another 40 years :) Once I get onto a real internet connection, I'll try and upload some picture.. they ain't pretty saws anymore though.
 
Sounds like you are enjoying the old Husky's Will be good to hear how the rings do for them.
 
Welcome! I love my old huskies. Be careful with the oil pumps. They have plastic parts that break and can only sometimes be found used. Lots of L77 parts swap out with the L65 saws.
 
Oh yeah... don't ever toss an old air filter in the trash. You can't get them and may have to fabricate a new cover to make them work.
 
Well, I did the second saw too and sharpened the chains up.. the second saw also had .050" ring gap... Anyone know what the spec on it is? I'd guess about .004-.008?? One of the saws (can't remember which one now) was bought on the week of my birth, August 1978 and cut all our firewood for 25 years, when we got the second saw. One is made in Yugoslavia, one in sweden, seems that only one of them NEEDS the cylinder base gasket... the two runners didn't need it and ran like raped apes with the porting.. my stall RPM rose I'd guess about 500 RPM, they sound a lot different now. The second saw I ground out the first baffle so it had a couple big holes in it, but left the outlet as is... They're about the quietest saw around, and it's something I like about them.

I don't throw anything away!! still have the right hand cover that's hardly got anything left on it.. because its still better than none.. I've found the recoil spools tend to crack up, making the rope double up and jam.. Had one coil go bad on me, neither of the two running saws have the kill switch on them anymore, I just choke them to kill, and just before it dies I release the choke.. they start right back up. On one of the saws the air filter was letting a whole lot of dust in (maybe that's ONE reason for the large end gap?).. I split the two halves of it and put glue between it, but it seems like it still lets dust in.. I inspected it really close and the mesh seems to be fine.. can't figure out where else it would come in. I figured I might as well get two sets of rings at $16 each.. it doesn't seem like anything else ever needs to be done to these saws.. they still have the original points in them and they're fine. One thing that always seems to break (probably on any saw) is the air filter cover.. good luck finding a good one of those.. The never seem to fit right and that's probably half the reason they keep disintegrating. We did put a new sprocket hub on one saw, the other will come up soon, but it's still working for now.

I was thinking of getting another saw, perhaps a 555 or something like a 562? XP.. I'll just watch craigslist for them to come up.. there was a husky 44 for $125 and a 61 for $200, both running and in decent shape (better than mine that is). There's a NEW 550XP for $625, but that's getting pricy,.. especially if I'm going to have to put another bar on it.
 
Well, you wanted to see some pictures? OK., got them uploaded

the two runners


Ported jug next to unported

The saw that wasn't running well enough to use anymore had about .100" of ring gap!!.. It's surprising it ran long enough to wear that much.. Rings should be in this week sometime, The saws already run better with the porting, I can't wait to see what they'll run like with proper compression. For a fairly small bodied saw they seem to work good.

They ain't pretty, but they're paid for! The red one is a yugoslavian one. I don't think there's any significant difference between them, the jugs and pistons are Mahle anyhow, which are the parts tat take the worst abuse.
 
YAY, rings came in, installed them, then I found an old tillotson carb on a shelf that had a considerably bigger bore (I think it came from a big old homelite), but didn't have either covers, and the wrong shaft layout, so I fiddled a while and got it set up.

WOW does that saw scream now! stall RPM went up probably 1000 RPM from before I did any work to it, and freespeed probably went up 3000. I have the rakers set pretty aggressive and it powers it just fine in fir and pine... I was ripcutting a block of firewood and it was throwing chips like a beaver, crosscutting the same piece (about 14") was no trouble either...

As for the muffler, I put a couple big holes in the first baffle and left the rest alone.. I didn't want the saw to start sounding like a Stihl!

The second saw I'm having some trouble with, I think I may have plugged the crankcase pilot port with some sealant,... seems to have an intermittent fuel supply, and I tried the carb from the other saw that I know was running perfectly but it had exactly the same problem.. I might try swapping plugs before I fight with it any more (easiest fix first right?)
 
Oh, and concerning air filters? One saw was always sucking sawdust into the carb, I couldn't figure out from where, I sealed the seams of the air cleaner to be sure, no luck, no holes in the mesh.. finally I found the culprit. On the carb, on the lower bolt hole, there was a smidge less shoulder for the air cleaner to sit on... Put a carb on that had a better shoulder and it stays clean now.
 
Oh yeah... don't ever toss an old air filter in the trash. You can't get them and may have to fabricate a new cover to make them work.

Yup, the reason why the old devil gets shelved. Broken cover and missing air filter.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1414534923.701974.jpg

This one pumped 160 out of the box from the evilbay seller. Cleaned the strainer for the oil pump and installed a new rim drive system.
 
you should be able to fandangle an air cleaner from a K&N catalog somehow i'd think. It looks to be in good shape though otherwise
 
Braaaap!!, tested it out on a real log, about a 24" fir buttpiece.. sure cut through it nicely, no bogging, no pushing.. 24" bar wasn't long enough to quite get clear through it, and my mental stopwatch says it was about 15-20 seconds per cut.. Wanted to video it but can't find the memory card for my camera:chainsaw:
 
Oh, and concerning air filters? One saw was always sucking sawdust into the carb, I couldn't figure out from where, I sealed the seams of the air cleaner to be sure, no luck, no holes in the mesh.. finally I found the culprit. On the carb, on the lower bolt hole, there was a smidge less shoulder for the air cleaner to sit on... Put a carb on that had a better shoulder and it stays clean now.

Cool! I have an L65 with the same problem, sucking in dust with no visible holes in the air cleaner. All my spare L65 carbs need rebuilding before use, I'm wondering if I can make a very thin gasket to go between the filter and the carb that will keep the dust out and make up for a poor fit.
 
Cool! I have an L65 with the same problem, sucking in dust with no visible holes in the air cleaner. All my spare L65 carbs need rebuilding before use, I'm wondering if I can make a very thin gasket to go between the filter and the carb that will keep the dust out and make up for a poor fit.

Why not try some 3M weatherstrip adheasive? You old timers remember the yellow snot and now it comes in black.

I use it to patch holes in air filter mesh and flocking.
 
I find windshield urethane works really nice.. it doesn't get eaten by fuel. I'd try putting a dab on it, , then a piece of saran wrap or wax paper, then the air filter (lightly).. let it cure, then remove (or just cut holes) in the film and tighten it up.

Take a good look at the bosses around the studs.. that's where mine was leaking (I'll try posting a pic)
 
Here's a picture of two carbs, the one on the left has a bigger boss around the ear for the stud, the one on the right has a notch in it, that is where mine leaked... Also you can see how little of the air filter sits on the carb from the indentation.

 

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Chuckwood, Is your saw one of the Tomos/yugoslavian saws? Ours with the sealing problem was.
 

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