You don't know Jacks! I found the S25 wrist pin clips, but the wire diameter of yours should be 0.034" if you checked them.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
I wouldn't touch it. Never shine old pieces, ruins their value plus it looks better old.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well my nosiness got me in trouble yesterday as I tried to look at the recoil spring on my PP405. Removed the metal cover/cup that fits over the spring and now I can't replace it as the spring expanded out to the side. Probably have to remove spring and start over. Question: seems to me I have to wind spring and insert it into the cup and then place it in the recoil. Placing the spring in the recoil and then replacing the cup/cover would seem to end up where I am now. Anyone have any experience with the process?
Got a picture?
Just did the recoil on a Remy Logmaster. Big nasty spring. Wind in the 'cup' and then engage the pulley. Wind it around and catch the anchor end. Blotch!
Dang, lost track of what page that was on.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
I wasn't going to clean the whole thing, just the green spots on it. Definitely don't want to clean up old stuff like that, ruins the patina.
Well my nosiness got me in trouble yesterday as I tried to look at the recoil spring on my PP405. Removed the metal cover/cup that fits over the spring and now I can't replace it as the spring expanded out to the side. Probably have to remove spring and start over. Question: seems to me I have to wind spring and insert it into the cup and then place it in the recoil. Placing the spring in the recoil and then replacing the cup/cover would seem to end up where I am now. Anyone have any experience with the process?
Here is one method. Another is to make a ring of finishing nails in a board. Make the ID of the circle a little smaller than the cup in the starter so the coiled spring will drop in. I would try to leave the tag end that attaches to the recoil housing out side the nails. You could also drill some large holes in the board so you could get a couple of tie wraps around the wound spring.
Wear safety glasses
Here is one method. Another is to make a ring of finishing nails in a board. Make the ID of the circle a little smaller than the cup in the starter so the coiled spring will drop in. I would try to leave the tag end that attaches to the recoil housing out side the nails. You could also drill some large holes in the board so you could get a couple of tie wraps around the wound spring.
Wear safety glasses
I picked up an unusual Canadian Craftsman 3400 today. Really dirty and the paint is kind of suffering. The saw is probably in the best mechanical condition of any 3400 I have.
The piston has no signs of any chrome loss and there isn't a mark on what I can see of the cylinder. It has a Poulan supplied rim system with almost no wear on the rim, 20" Oregon "Direct Drive" hard nose bar, chain brake and thankfully, a decent Oregon chain. Not sure which model. Full chisel with bumpers, LPX I think.
The saw also has a 4000 type air filter setup on it which is what attracted me to the saw. I think I have too many 3400's now but, I do like the odd balls.
It's also the first saw I've picked up that had mud dauber wasp nests in it. I think it's been sitting for a long time.
The first Poulan I've found in a good long time that wasn't over priced.
The piston has no signs of any chrome loss and there isn't a mark on what I can see of the cylinder. It has a Poulan supplied rim system with almost no wear on the rim, 20" Oregon "Direct Drive" hard nose bar, chain brake and thankfully, a decent Oregon chain. Not sure which model. Full chisel with bumpers, LPX I think.
The saw also has a 4000 type air filter setup on it which is what attracted me to the saw. I think I have too many 3400's now but, I do like the odd balls.
It's also the first saw I've picked up that had mud dauber wasp nests in it. I think it's been sitting for a long time.
The first Poulan I've found in a good long time that wasn't over priced.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Great vid. Here is the picture of what I'm dealing with. The metal cover fits over the spring and down the sides of the spring. I think I have to compress the spring, put it in the cover and then fit both pieces into the recoil. The IPL doesn't show the cover but I'm sure it's original.
Attachments
Like this one? If you are careful, you may be able to lift it out coiled and pull the outer end to shrink the coil down and then wrap the end you pulled out. Hang on tight..
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Any pics Tim? Congrats on the score.
I'll get some pics tomorrow. On the bright side, I rolled the saw cake from the clutch cover up in the newspaper I pulled it onto and fired it into the fire. It burned impressively for 3 or 4 minutes.
By the way, what's your first name?
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Nate, I should put that somewhere!
Thanks Nate.
You can click on your user name top of screen upper right, click on signature and type it in.
You can click on your user name top of screen upper right, click on signature and type it in.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Nice Tim! Looks to be in pretty good shape! That chain brake looks interesting.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Ever seen a Skil version? This one is on CL.
Ever seen a Skil version? This one is on CL.
I have one of those. Mine has just about enough paint on the saw case that you can cover it with a quarter. The rest is OK. I think they forgot the wash cycle on the paint line.
They are. The trip pressure can be adjusted on these via a screw above the chain tension screw. The brakes aren't really common but they aren't rare up here. They do make a noticeable weight difference though.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Very cool!
blk05crew
I like 'em green
What determines whether a carb needs just a teardown and cleaning versus a complete carb kit? Obviously if some of the parts are worn out they need to be replaced, but will a good cleaning work
most of the time?
most of the time?
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