2000ssm6
Stihl User
If you can't find a 440 and don't like the 441, the 460 is the next best choice, but all of these are winners.
Spend an hour or so to open up the muffler on the 372 and it is a completely different saw, loads more torque and all but impossible to stop with a 20" b&c.
I just don't care for the Husky style powerband. Not enough low end grunt for my taste. It's the main reason I don't like the 361 also.
Maybe in 10" pine.
I can stall out my ported 660 in 6" hardwood if I push hard enough.
I just don't care for the Husky style powerband. Not enough low end grunt for my taste. It's the main reason I don't like the 361 also.
So with the help of of some recent 361 vs. 440 debate threads,I decided to go with the 440.
However, the 441 @ 14.5 lbs. is on the Sthil web site but no 440. So they have already discontinued it except for remaining dealer inventory?
Now the question every one is tired of...I'm considering the 372 (70 cc) or go maybe just going back to "a sure thing" ..the 361 @(59 cc).
Although I'm finding it hard to get my hands around the notion that a 59 cc and a 70 cc saw can be compared?? (Not trying to hash up the debate just talking numbers). My only reference is my 290 @ 56.5cc..which if it wasn't in pieces waiting for a new p/C would still be the one saw....am I catching that CAD thing?
Anyway, what about the the 390? Is it a pain to work on as it's not a pro saw? I'm not logging but end up bucking/felling some pretty fat old oaks on my property(much of 15 -20+ inches diameter) & most of the free wood I get from friends is mature, pretty beefy hard wood ( i love free wood!).
I'm sending out this thread and then have to sign off ..so I'll check on REPS Sunday.
Thanks for your opinions in advance.
I don't consider a saw with a powerband like the 372 has to be the best at anything. I can't imagine using one with a long bar. Most people seem to agree that it's good for a 20" bar in hardwood and not much more.
Have you ran a run-in 441 against a stock 372? You'd be surprised.
390? pass... I'd buy a 361 over the 390 anyday, even if it runs $100 more.
....
Tweeking the Makita sounds like a great Idea ($$$) but I'm just now working on my first saw (the 290) so i'm hoping to get a good strong stock saw that'll be easy to maintain and keep running well. Maybe do a mod sometime down the line.
Spend an hour or so to open up the muffler on the 372 and it is a completely different saw, loads more torque and all but impossible to stop with a 20" b&c.
Maybe in 10" pine.
I can stall out my ported 660 in 6" hardwood if I push hard enough.
I just don't care for the Husky style powerband. Not enough low end grunt for my taste. It's the main reason I don't like the 361 also.
Maybe you should teach yourself how to run one of the many saws (several brands) with that "power-band" as they are real fun to cut with. If you can stall a ported 660 (definitely not one of those saws) in 6" wood it might be the guy behind the saws having problems, not the saws themselves! Almost sounds to me like you cut with the intention of stalling a saw, no wonder you don't like high speed saws.
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS440.html
When I found my MS440 at a sale, I came home looking for info on it on the Stihl website, and found that it was no longer there... so I went to the 441 page, and substituted 440 for 441 in the url... voila!
All I did was respond to your above claim. I know how to run a saw for best cutting speed. I also know that certain conditions like tough, twisted grain require more torque. I cut wood like ash, hard maple, oak, hickory, locust and hedge almost exclusively and they all require a good bit of grunt to get through.
My saws are ported for fun. Not because I need the power.
Yah, as I recall that the 460 does suck down gas like a V8 with twin carbs. That and the vibes are the two biggest "complaints" I had after running it. However, its cuts fast and furious. Big trees go over pretty quick with it, and bucking is a breeze. :greenchainsaw:
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