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I got 7 years out of the original bearing on mine, just replace it the other day. It was froze up, but the splitter still worked
pretty good. I just have the lowly J model though and have only split 70-80 cords.
 
PB Blaster makes some good silicone and Teflon based lubricants you may want to try over WD-40 or, there is a very good firearm lube I use called CLP Breakfree. Wonder if those might give you better performance. Interesting that 1 little bearing is that poorly designed.

I have the graphite and teflon versions of the PB blaster. The hard part is getting it into the bearing.

Paul called me back today and suggested drilling the 1/4" bolt so I can either grease the follower or shoot lube right into the center of the follower. I di ask if he had any experience with the stainless version of the follower and he didn't, but said he may look into it.

I have a couple new ones on the way but will probably change it out for bearings.
 
What if you modified it to use blocks of PTFE to slide on as apposed to bearings that will fail.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
I think it would work better and if you lubed the sliding surfaces with graphite even better.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
The difficult part, not that it will be all that difficult, will be attaching it to the holder.

@Sandhill Crane I think the best bet would be flat stock. And you don't need to source it, go buy one of those white plastic cutting boards, thats UHMWPE.

ETA: I just noticed your dimensions.... I'm wondering if it wont wear through where the bolt goes through.
 
I tried to cut a piece of snowmobile track slider rail down thinking it would glide along the beam. I put it in there, and while it would go out just fine, it did not want to return. That tension spring puts a lot of downforce on that bearing.
 
How many cords a year you do with your Speeco? So far this year my SS has had over 20cords put though it and will get anothe 20-30cords before the summer is over! Besides the return spring and that one bearing I haven't had any other problems.

Won't start after sitting out in the winter without help. Can't move them around without a truck or utility vehicle easily. Burn 2 or 3 times the fuel per cord. I can go on, this is just my observation since my purchase. I will concede that there are pieces and sizes of logs that I don't take/use anymore, or set aside for the outdoor wood burner, but I'm getting older and don't want to #$%^&* with that type of wood either.


I am just a firewood hack who views cutting firewood as a harmless pastime to get through Winter in this God forsaken climate. Gives me something to do in the Winter and is pretty good exercise. I do 20 - 28 Cord/year. On track to do more this year though. The B & S on the Speeco almost always starts on the first pull but it resides in a heated garage. The only problem is the valve started leaking the first year. I complained and was sent a new valve however it is sitting in a box. I also bought a seal kit for it and thought the price was too much. So I went down to the local hydraulic shop and they made me 3 more complete kits for under $5. I put one in and it runs fine to this day. I have had it 4 years.

Note pics are a couple weeks old, there is 3 full cord split on the end right now and room for one more on the pallets now in place.

Here is a little journey of my Winters:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/places-to-cut-wood.229574/

OH PICS, everyone loves pics. This is what I am working on right now.

11rc9ed.jpg


The last two are a new site I am moving to, but haven't gotten around to it yet, I have exclusive rights to this place.

mj7sli.jpg


mbiw4m.jpg


9jnez5.jpg


1z2hbi8.jpg


2wh2r0n.jpg
 
I am just a firewood hack who views cutting firewood as a harmless pastime to get through Winter

I think that's how most of us that sell wood started out!
One winter we have a little more wood than we needed so we sell a cord or two. After we sold the first cord or two we think, well that was not bad and split a little extra the following year. Next thing you know you need to fill at least one of these every weekend during the off season
IMG_0500_zpsl2e7idon.jpg

So you can fill these
IMG_6505_zpshzxss184.jpg

but you do get to take a break and wrap these on the days you take off from splitting :cry:
IMG_0585_zpsphidfew9.jpg


Word to the wise-don't ever sell that first cord of wood! If you do, there will be days it will have you thinking :wtf: did I get myself into:crazy2:
 
Impressive Mijdirtyjeep,

I have thought about different more efficient splitters. But then you need much more equipment. Since I am almost always by myself, it would not be cost effective.

I get some pretty good exercise though too.
 
No grease fittings and the followers that come on the SS are all unsealed.

I pulled the smaller one yesterday and let it soak in PB blaster because it was locked up. It worked for a while but eventually seized up altogether.

The only one I'm having an issue with is the 7/8 that sits under the rack keeping upward pressure on the head on of the rack, which would normally equated to the push block on a hydraulic splitter.
PB blaster is a penetrant not a lubricant. The same argument can be made about WD40. I don't care what the bottle says, don't use it on roller bearings as a lube you will cut the bearing life short. Probably not that big of a deal as it sounds like the bearing was toast before you applied the PB anyways.
 
PB Blaster makes some good silicone and Teflon based lubricants you may want to try over WD-40 or, there is a very good firearm lube I use called CLP Breakfree. Wonder if those might give you better performance. Interesting that 1 little bearing is that poorly designed.

The bearing itself isn't a poor design but it's application -- not so good!
 
PB Blaster makes some good silicone and Teflon based lubricants you may want to try over WD-40 or, there is a very good firearm lube I use called CLP Breakfree. Wonder if those might give you better performance. Interesting that 1 little bearing is that poorly designed.

What is more interesting to me is that Super Split refuses to address the problem and replace the poorly designed bearing with one better designed for the application for which it is being used. They must have bought a couple thousand and are waiting until they are gone.

I wonder if Split Second customers are having the same issue.
 
What is more interesting to me is that Super Split refuses to address the problem and replace the poorly designed bearing with one better designed for the application for which it is being used. They must have bought a couple thousand and are waiting until they are gone.

I wonder if Split Second customers are having the same issue.

Seeing the Split Second looks like it uses a Cam follower bearing just like the SS I would guess with time it is going to fail just like the SS.

I am wondering about the DR RapidFire, as it uses a single (looks to be 1" O.D.) roller bearing instead of a cam follower on the top of the rack.

The DR is where I go the idea of using a roller bearing. I was looking over one at TS and thought I would give it a shot.

If you pause this video at the 4sec mark it shows the single roller bearing.
 
What is more interesting to me is that Super Split refuses to address the problem and replace the poorly designed bearing with one better designed for the application for which it is being used. They must have bought a couple thousand and are waiting until they are gone.

I wonder if Split Second customers are having the same issue.
This is not a common issue, but the bearing is considered a wear item and will need replacing at some point
 
Hydraulic splitters are pretty hands free maintenance wise. Put gas in them, change the engine oil once or twice a year, throw a tarp over them till the next time you need it.

That's just not my experience with a kinetic splitter. Once you get your head around the general fidgetting with them, your good to go.

The bearing, cam roller, whatever...needs constant attention, cleaned, lubbed, taken off and unfroze, etc. Only takes a minute or five, then back splitting.
 

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