notch?

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Ahhh yer all nuts anyways... except for Brian, he's the only sane one here;)

Gypo, now why would I be mad at you?:confused:
 
i have personaly had some great fun felling 80 ft douglas firs with some of my logger mates and i have learned a lot from them..i have worked with a lot of arborists and very few had the levels of skills with a saw like a full time logger..like wise ive known loggers who get scared climbing a few steps into there truck :D
 
Man has this thread morphed, a day ago you all were fighting, and today, John's boradcasting Canadian logger tunes. I got a fix for this leaning tree problem, I have assessed all of the possibilities, cuttting it down, pulling it down, climbing it and cutting it up, and I have come to this conclusion: Get a D8 Cat out there and push the sonofab1tch down. Its loud, big, and has lots of power - why not?


Hey John, who sings that song? I like that tune.:cool:
 
barber chairing

In my feild houses cars fences mrs Smith, are not the problem. If my tree goes the wrong way , im vapor and I would of killed my ground crew. my suggestion would be to make your release cut 2 inches BELOW and 2 inches more for every 2 foot that the tree is round. aim your face cut(scarf) in the direction you want it to fall. Your scarf should be 35 degrees for soft wood and 45 degrees for hard would any thing bigger than about 5 feet round make it 37.
your rope is set high but solid and is getting pulled in the direction of fall. Your release cut needs to start - depending on how much side ways movment you need, un even holding wood is a great tool, theary being the thickest part of the holding wood will break last. MOST IMPORTANTLY dont use a winch only.the winch can pull it allright but once the tree lets go so does the winch's tension. if you had the oppertunity (space) use the truck to pull and keep driving, maintaining direction and reduceing the chance of "rolling" back the way of its lean.Cutting BELOW your scarf can greatly reduce the chances or barber chairing on trees that are pulled (or pushed by excervatiors)you simply have more wood to cut through most trees will chair at the half way point, cutting below - your 3/4 through. The tree will still fall OH and for Gods sake be carefull out there . Kind regards Derek
 
cutting below notch

Hi Mike, We get a tree here called stringy bark,very straight grain. Because we have to pull a lot away from power lines , even putting in a small notch in cutting above it they just split..
Next time your near a foggy bahtroom draw a picture of a very leaning tree with a small notch and realease cut above it you will see where it is going to spilt about half way. Mostley because of the weight at the top. Now draw one cutting below,notice how much more wood you had to cut,past 1\2 past the danger point.
It works for me.......P.s a plunge or bore cut 6 in above notch, can also help but ive had saws jam in "stringys" theres that much tension in them, And thats not nesseseraly being towed. I hope someone eles comments on this tip. Stay safe .........Derek
 
Oz is surely a strange place-They have computers and the internet but can only draw in foggy W.C.s.:p
Derek, low backcuts do have to be cut further in order to release-That is because the must split out instead of folding wood fibers. However, since they can only work via splitting they don't preclude splitting. Read that twice. You may be able to drop a lot of trees witthout a barberchair using low back cuts but when you get to a tree that just wants to pop you aren't safe. On heavy leaners borecut to a normal hinge then sever the back strap-that is the safest method.:angel:
 
Derek, What is the rainfall in your area? Do you have a wet and contrasting dry season? I noticed the brown ground between the trees and limited understory growth.
 
Cutting Below notch

G'day folks,
Stumper, I told you we are "a bit rough in the bush",I use the mirror after a shower straight after work. As I spend 8-10 hours a day in trees swaying around,it takes a while to stop swaying and get my land legs back. The small space doesen't let me fall to far...Very hard to forget my day. While its freash in my head i try to animate events I could of done differently or better.
When it comes to tring to explain somthing to others on the crew. I use a small magnetic drawing board!!! Hows that for :low teck".Weather here now is mid winter.massive frosts every day sure takes the color out of everything. Temp range last 8 months
has been 43 degeres c down to -12 c


You explained it a lot better than i did, can I blame my poor typing skills???
 
Are we talking about free-grain wood?
That is no growth rings... I heard years ago it breaks much easier than our temperate climate woods... Can rip a portion of the stump out of the ground etc..
 
some is carrot like, others hold on to the last.it wouldnt be much diffrent murph,mountain ash here slabs up when falling big danger.species that you do ''up there'' grow diffrent ''down here''most is unmillable which is a shame.poley eucs are a bit scarey up top
 
chairing at height

Three times ive had stringey barks chair on me while at height.
The problem with useing bore cut is that the branch is generaly to small. How do the pros handel this situation??? regards Derek
 
i would cut good saftey cuts so the holding wood is a small square shape and use a bigger saw than a 20t.a good question for graeme,he always climbs with a 46.a guy that works with me uses a 365 as his smallest climbing saw.small saws can put you too close to the action IMO
 

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