NOVA module on the bay

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Another listing for the same product from another seller says it only works on SOME Stihl trimmers and chainsaws... then he says it does NOT work on 031 and 031AV. Fine, but is that the end the list? These people are very vague in their descriptions sometimes.
 
IIRC on some Stihl saws the reversal of the leads ¨Neg to coil instead of Pos works but not sure of which models, also on some models you have to adjust the timing, there were a few threads on this subject before the site went Kapput
 
So it will be a trial and error thing until I find those pages. Thanks for the reply, I will search the site for info on that.
 
Replacing the points with a chip will mess with the timing. The chip usually advances the timing, and often it is too much advance for the motor. Usually you can fix it by opening up the coil gap to retard the spark a few degrees.
 
Here's the module from Oregon http://www.weedeaterman.com/product_p/wemore33053.htm
May or may not be cheaper, if it isn't and your interested, let me know.
I've done several Stihl saws like the 028 without issue. Sure it will work on others that have points, reverse the leads if it doesn't give spark on the first try. Pretty simple to install, finding a place to mount it may be another story. The 028 is still running strong after 4 years with this installed.
 
Here's the module from Oregon http://www.weedeaterman.com/product_p/wemore33053.htm
May or may not be cheaper, if it isn't and your interested, let me know.
I've done several Stihl saws like the 028 without issue. Sure it will work on others that have points, reverse the leads if it doesn't give spark on the first try. Pretty simple to install, finding a place to mount it may be another story. The 028 is still running strong after 4 years with this installed.
I was looking at this part for an ancient early model 011AV that I'm repairing for a friend. Think it was his father's saw. Stens points from the dealer are $46....

If the saw won't spark after I finally get the gasket set and assemble it I may try your ignition for kicks.

Sent from my SCH-R530C using Tapatalk
 
Ambull - what kind of coil gap are we talking here? Widest gap you can get? I guess I didn't realize that would retard the timing.

Watsonr - the one on feebay looks exactly the same but is only 11.00 and free shipping. Still, I have read the ones like that with the Chevron style ribs are known to die early for unknown reasons. Any thoughts on that? 11 bucks is cheap, but not if it's not going to hold up. If I have to replace it again soon under warranty for my customer, I'll have to eat that cost. I'm not sure I like that idea. Again, it's only 11 bucks, but the comeback for no spark a second time will be the issue.
 
I have used several Nova & Nova 2 modules & all are still working good, but I have had 2 of the chevron type die suddenly for no apparent reason, a good tip I got from an electronics guy, was not to pullover/revolve the flywheel magnet part past the coil without it being able to spark across the plug gap/grounded plug ,or with kill switch in the off position.The only saw that I had to adjust the timing on was a Mac 10 10, the others have worked fine, I would assume that it works the same as an electronic coil in sensing the spark timing twix magnets, coil & chip
 
I was looking at this part for an ancient early model 011AV that I'm repairing for a friend. Think it was his father's saw. Stens points from the dealer are $46....

If the saw won't spark after I finally get the gasket set and assemble it I may try your ignition for kicks.

Sent from my SCH-R530C using Tapatalk

Work the contacts over with first a soft and then a hard arkansas stone and oil.

I have taken a couple of the chips out of saws....................................

The coil has to be good to start with and I have yet to find a bad condensor.
 
Al - Thanks I'll take that into consideration. So basically someone said you should revolve the flywheel with the kill switch off? Does the electronic chip get zapped if it can't expel the energy? It's going to ground if the kill switch is off, I would think that would be fine.

R DeLawter - Were your bad ones also the chevron style?
 
The chevron style is the one I've used always, never had a comeback. That's a good deal, I can't even touch it, guess if you buy a 1000, there cheaper. These are electronic chips like a coil, heat will kill them. Never had to adjust timing yet, but could tell it did advance it a little by being harder to pull.
 
Thanks Randy. I guess maybe I should just take my chances then. I've got a customer with two Stihl saws that he can't get ignition parts for anymore, he says. He didn't tell me what models they were, he couldn't remember, but he is going to bring them by soon. I guess I'll see what I can do with them when they show up.
 
There are a few that it won't work on. These are normally used on a points saw, it won't work on an electronic ignition saw as they don't have points to begin with.... like the 056. On those, you'll need a new coil and that can be the problem on some as they're not made or no spares around to use.
 
Is that what the original ebay listing meant? That it won't work with electronic saws? Sigh. I was reading too much into it if that's the case. I realize this takes the place of points, and I guess that's what I was confused on. What stihl saw with points wouldn't this fit? I bet that's what they meant, won't work on the old electronic saws. duh.
 
There are a few that it won't work on. These are normally used on a points saw, it won't work on an electronic ignition saw as they don't have points to begin with.... like the 056. On those, you'll need a new coil and that can be the problem on some as they're not made or no spares around to use.
Fitting a chip to a saw with an electronic coil would be a non starter as the coil would be US if there was no spark(Coil fault) an electronic coiled saw can be brought back to life if there is a points type coil that will fit + chip I have done this on several Homelite saws as the E coils were unreliable & more expensive than P type coil & chip
 
I have also brought back to life the P21/28 range of Pioneer saws using the earlier points coil + chip. Before the old school guys get upset & tell me that points are easier & a better set up, I would say that in my area of the world spares for US manufactured & older models of most saws are NLA, & since USPS have in their wisdom decided to make their postal charges in the unobtainium league it is some times the only way I have in getting some saws to work again, I would keep to as built parts wiseif this was available & economically viable
 
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