Options for my "big" saw

[PoulanInPA]

Hi All,

I'm a homeowner, non-professional by all regards, and have three saws. I'm very happy with the smaller two, but am debating a change for my "big" saw. This saw would be used for an alaskan saw mill and cutting up larger rounds and logs. In my mind, I have two options (do nothing is rarely an option for me):

1. Buy a Home Depot rental unit Makita 6400 and put a big bore kit on it, for running a 24 or 28 inch bar.
2. Increase the displacement of my 68 cc Poulan 4400. Is that possible??

Thanks

 

[foeke]

I have an 7900 and also use it for some occasional milling (36" bar). 30" cuts is already more than it can handle.
And I don't think you want a BB kit for milling. From what I have seen, they don't have the power, and more importantly the quality needed for milling. I would go for an OEM 79cc cilinder.
But even better a 9010 or bigger.
Milling really needs a lot of grunt.

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[RandyinTN]

Why not a Echo CS-800P? Find a dealer having their 1 day sale and pick one up for about $700. Everyone that I know who used one has high praise for it.

 

[PoulanInPA]

I'm more so looking for a project, than to outright purchase a new saw. What's the difference between a BBK 79cc saw and an OEM 79 cc saw in terms of power?

 

[cgraham1]

I'm more so looking for a project, than to outright purchase a new saw. What's the difference between a BBK 79cc saw and an OEM 79 cc saw in terms of power?

Not a whole lot. But the OEM cylinder is definitely higher quality and milling is hard on saws...

I personally would look for a 90cc + for milling. Or a bandsaw mill.

 

[foeke]

Not a whole lot. But the OEM cylinder is definitely higher quality and milling is hard on saws...

I personally would look for a 90cc + for milling. Or a bandsaw mill.

Exactly what I was thinking. After using my alaskan mill for the first hour, I was already contemplating how to convince my wife we need a bandsaw.
And believe me. You have enough time to contemplate using a 80cc saw to mill.

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[rarefish383]

If your looking for a project saw, why look in the middle when you can go big? Last Saturday I picked up a running Homelite Super 1050, 100CC's of pure torque, for $150. My first milling saw was one of my Dad's 1050's he bought new in the early 70's. Couple years ago I bought a new 660 for the mill. Then, last week, when I saw another 1050, I brought it home. Came with a 24" bar and I have a couple 36's, Joe

 

[PoulanInPA]

If your looking for a project saw, why look in the middle when you can go big? Last Saturday I picked up a running Homelite Super 1050, 100CC's of pure torque, for $150. My first milling saw was one of my Dad's 1050's he bought new in the early 70's. Couple years ago I bought a new 660 for the mill. Then, last week, when I saw another 1050, I brought it home. Came with a 24" bar and I have a couple 36's, Joe

Wanna sell yours to me for $151?!

 

[rarefish383]

Wanna sell yours to me for $151?!

I gave one a way a couple weeks ago, that's why I had to grab this one, can't quite do $151.

 

[Brian72]

I'll second Joe on going as big as possible. Get something capable of running a longer bar if needed. Milling requires more power and 24" and 28" disappear pretty quick if you get some nice logs.

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[GilksTreeFelling]

I'll have to agree for milling use you defiently want 90+CC's with a good oiling system.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I'll have to agree for milling use you definently want 90+CC's with a good oiling system.

Not true. You can mill logs with an Alaskan saw mill using a 70 cc saw. A friend and me just milled a 20" dia. walnut log that was 15' long with a stock Makita 6421 and earlier milled a 20" dia. red elm log with the same saw. In both cases we used a 32" bar. We gathered in 16 boards, each 1-1/2" thick. No problems at all.

 

[hseII]

If your looking for a project saw, why look in the middle when you can go big? Last Saturday I picked up a running Homelite Super 1050, 100CC's of pure torque, for $150. My first milling saw was one of my Dad's 1050's he bought new in the early 70's. Couple years ago I bought a new 660 for the mill. Then, last week, when I saw another 1050, I brought it home. Came with a 24" bar and I have a couple 36's, Joe

How does the 660 compare to the 1050 milling?

 

[rarefish383]

How does the 660 compare to the 1050 milling?

Not much difference in speed. The biggest difference is comfort. The 660 is quieter, has a decomp valve so it's easier to start, and it has anti vibe stuff so it's smoother to handle. Not smoother in the cut. The biggest thing I hear others complain about is the wider kerf and loss of wood, because the 1050 is 404 verses 3/8 for the 660. I mill most of my logs at 2 1/2" to 3" for benches, table tops, and gun stocks, so If I get 8 slabs with one, I'll still get 8 slabs with the other. I've actually thought about converting my 660 to 404. The biggest thing to me is the 1050 with 404 stays sharp longer. If I hit a fence staple with the 1050 you can hear and feel a Tink", and the saw keeps going. It only knocks the edge off a couple teeth. If I hit the same staple with the 660 it dings every tooth on the saw. Maybe because it's spinning faster, maybe because the teeth are smaller.Weight is moot, because when you set the mill on the guide rails, you're not holding it. If you have your log on a good slope the weight might help. If I were asked what saw to get, with no budget, buy someone that knows they like it, I'd say a new 660 or 880. Just saying that older big saws are a viable option. Also, what I call East Coast Big Saws, are often in near new condition on the inside. My Dad bought 2 Super 1050's in the early 70's. The only thing we used them for was the final notch cut and flushing stumps. We had 30" bars on a couple XL 925's that were lighter and almost as powerful. I had someone give me a an XL924 a couple years ago and put a 30" bar on it and milled a bunch of 20+ inch Poplars and it was like cutting butter. The XL924 has a decomp and spins a little faster. The Big Homelites are defiantly becoming collector saws, but they still pop up cheap, if you keep your eyes open. The sale where I got the one last week for $150, also had an MS660, that looked a little beat, that went for $450. The Homelite looked hardly used, was no decision for me. I'm going to an auction in a few minutes that has 4 old Homelites, might bring a couple home, Joe.

 

[Brian72]

Hi All,

I'm a homeowner, non-professional by all regards, and have three saws. I'm very happy with the smaller two, but am debating a change for my "big" saw. This saw would be used for an alaskan saw mill and cutting up larger rounds and logs. In my mind, I have two options (do nothing is rarely an option for me):

1. Buy a Home Depot rental unit Makita 6400 and put a big bore kit on it, for running a 24 or 28 inch bar.
2. Increase the displacement of my 68 cc Poulan 4400. Is that possible??

Thanks

Not sure where you're at in PA but you'd be welcome to try my mill. I'm running an ms661 with 28" and 36" bars.

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[William Balaska]

Husqvarna395xp. Most overall power in a 90cc class saw, and a great milling saw.

 

[PoulanInPA]

Not sure where you're at in PA but you'd be welcome to try my mill. I'm running an ms661 with 28" and 36" bars.

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Very nice of you. I'm in the Philly suburbs. Where are you?

 

[blades]

One thing you can do is run a skip tooth chain instead of a full comp. not had any issues with Dolmar 79xx series. my big thumper is a Stilh 084- 42" bar ( 120cc of meaness)

 

[PoulanInPA]

I'm thinking a big bored Dolmar/Makita 6400 or an OEM 7900 with a skip chain would be a good option for me. Can't really justify getting a monster 100+ cc saw. Biggest bar I'd run is 30".

What other saws would be comparable to the Dolkita's? I'm looking to buy used, $400 or less. Thanks

 

[Brian72]

In Berwick. Near Bloomsburg if you're familiar with that area.

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