Oregon PowerSharp

[Hddnis]

It was nice of philbert to take some time to use the powersharp and give some feedback.

I'll still be buying a few setups and trying it for myself. (No reflection on philbert is meant at all.)

My intentions as far as its use are for my work, and while I don't think it is too unique, it may be a fit for me while not for others.



Mr. HE

 

[Philbert]

PowerSharp Field Test - Continued

(Sorry - it took a while to get this posted)

Based on feedback from PowerSharp Eng I remounted the chain used earlier and pushed it firmly into the bar-mounted sharpener (BMS) for approximately 15 seconds. Saw lots of bright sparks shooting from the bottom of the BMS as this was done at twilight. I inspected the chain and still saw striations on the top plate. Tried a sample cut. I remounted the BMS pushed it again for approximately another 15 seconds.

A PowerSharp Haiku
PowerSharp at night
Sparks shoot from translucent case
Two-cycle firefly

The top plate was now smoother but not flat; it appeared to have a crown. The edge and leading point appeared sharper, although, still slightly serrated.

The groove in the stone looks significant (3/32“), and some metal build up remains in the center. Persistent metal build-up in the center of the sharpening stone is annoying. Is this metal build-up causing the striations in the top plate? Am I burning up the chain and stone to overcome this?

Tried some sample cuts on approximately 4 week old ash trunk sections cut down by a tree service for a neighbor. ‘Noodled’/ripped a 14” deep crotch section, and cross cut a 16” ‘cookie’, which required burying the 16” bar (only 14” of the bar actually cuts).

The saw/chain noodled pretty well, considering that it was being worked pretty hard for it’s size and power (MS021). Relatively large chips. The saw/chain also cut through the larger trunk section, with a reasonably smooth kerf for this type of cut, again, considering the size and power of the saw. These chips were sharp but small, looking like flaked coconut. It did not cut so well on some cross grain in a crotch area, which may be difficult for any chain.

In summary, I was able to restore more of the chain’s cutting ability with additional sharpening. I was able to resume cutting satisfactorily after the abuse from the first field test day on some heavy cutting, although not able to get the chain to cut as good as new. This would probably be an acceptable result for many chain saw users. I think that I would get better sharpening results if I could remove the metal build up from the stone.

Philbert

PowerSharp vs the Mighty Ash



Cookies!



Chips!



Groovy!

 

[mtngun]

Thanks for the report, Philbert.

Sounds like it does work well enough for the casual weekend sawyer.

 

[galde]

The diamond dresser surfaces have a gap in the middle which lets an un-dressed ridge build up in the center of the stone which will clog with embedded metal particles. To work properly the dresser should be continuous across the full width of the kerf. Another issue I see is the change in the geometry of the sharpening process due to wear on the drive links and the sprocket tip on the bar. This was a problem also on the old system. Many users cannot be convinced that a lot of slack in the chain is not only unnecessary but damaging to chain, sprocket, and cutter bar. For the old system to work as designed, it required a perfect chain (original size and shape of drive links and tie straps) with slack fully adjusted out, a perfect rim sprocket, and a perfect stone. For this new system to work as designed, I see the need to dress the stone with a full-width dressing link, and the chain (again without any slack whatsoever) to be carried by a roller nose sprocket, which carries the chain by the bottom edges of tie straps and cutters instead of the drive links, which quickly wear down in typical use.

 

[Fish]

Can you give a closeup of the cutters??

 

[Philbert]

Can you give a closeup of the cutters??

I have had trouble getting clear shots of the used cutters on my chain - for some reason, the close-up feature on my camera hasn't been working well, but I will try again for you Mr. Fish.

There are some clear photos of the new teeth from Oregon in post #9 in this thread.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

I'm Ready for My Close Up Mr. Fish

Still having some trouble with my camera, but here are some close ups I was able to get, along with commentary. Again, remember that this chain was intentionally abused by touching it to concrete while running, then sharpened with the PowerSharp Bar Mounted Sharpener.

Compare these to the new photos in post #9, and note my comments about metal build-up on the sharpening stone which appears to keep us from getting the intended edge. These were taken after some additional cutting; not right after sharpening. I should note that these are also all on the same chain, which was used in the same manner - there is quite a bit of variation between the teeth photographed.

Philbert

(***EDIT - the original photos in this thread were lost. I have tried to replace those in these with similar ones where possible. Comments have been updated to match these photos.)

NOTE - this is the same chain that was intentionally ground into the concrete in the photos above, and resharpened only using the PowerSharp cassette shown.

Note the groove worn into the sharpening stone. This stone is replaced with each new chain as a set.



Note the dual diamond dresser links at the left side of the photo. The chain moves toward the right in this photo.



Note dual depth gauges. The chain moves to the left in this photo.





Note serrations on top of cutter. Chain moves toward the viewer in this photo.

 

[galde]

Mount the diamonds to the sharpener and hook the folks up with some carbide cutters.

Now that is the setup that I would expect to work. There would be only real cutting teeth in the kerf, and the sharpener would keep its shape. I would add an adjustment knob on the plunger mechanism to limit the travel of the sharpener in a controlled way, similar to the old power sharp system. The photos of the teeth and dresser link after a sharpening cycle shows that the current system is readily destroyed if not perfectly operated. A diamond sharpener should also work better with chromed steel teeth than the current system.

 

[8433jeff]

If all the cutters were sharpened like the good one in Philbert's pics, I think my files might be worried. After showing them the rest of the pictures, they were laughing as I put them away. But we have seen worse chains come in, and people will be swayed by the "I don't need yous know-it-alls and your grinders and files and pro saws." When I was a heavy equipment operator, we had a saying similar to this "Yesterday, I couldn't spell lumberjack. Today I is one." Any word yet on pricing, and when can somebody else have one?

 

[PowerSharp Eng]

Response to Philbert's experience with PowerSharp®

Thanks Philbert for taking the time to use, photograph, and discuss your thoughts on the PowerSharp® system. Thanks for the haiku, I have a feeling the “Two-cycle firefly” name will stick, especially here at OREGON®.

Your experiences do parallel what we encounter in our field and lab testing.

1) The cutter shape does change during sharpening. The over lap of the right and left hand top plates diminish because of a small ridge that develops at the center of the stone. But, the cutters keep performing through their entire life even as their shape is changing. I was a bit skeptical the first time I saw the change in the cutter top plate shape during testing. But the chain kept on cutting until I had ground the cutters to nubs.

2) Because the dresser links do not over lap the center of the chain, a ridge develops at the center of the groove in the stone. The ridge is not caused by metal build up on the ridge area. The ridge will affect the cutter top plate shape, but the chain will continue to cut to end of life.

3) The serrations do occur on the top plate from the grit size on the stone and the locations of the diamonds on the dresser links. Don’t try to remove the serrations, sharpen until the chain cuts, don't worry if it does not look like a file sharpened chain.

4) Metal particles will be visible in differing amounts on the stone. But the location is constantly shifting around the stone and does not affect the sharpening. Again, at first appearance it was concerning, but the stone will continue to sharpen the chain. I’ve seen 3 dozen plus chains sharpened from new life to nubs, so keep going until the stone and chain are fully consumed then post another report.

5) Watch the groove shape in the stone as it grows to .350”+ deep. The corners of the groove in the stone maintain the cutting points on the cutters. The corners will remain sharp to end of life due to the diamonds on the dresser links.

Thanks again for your observations! Keep cutting and post as you go.

 

[vincem77]

This may not be relative in this situation, but reading the comments about metal buildup on the stone it might be.

I've had my share of jobs, one of them being in a production machine shop. My main job was setup of centerless grinders that ground dowel pins and threaded set screws. Cutting oil was our lifeline on the high production machines. If the oil wasn't clean or flowing properly the stone wheels chewed up easy and the parts produced were poor.

This being my background is there a way to incorporate a coolant or oiler dispenser to this sharpener. Something similar to the bar oilers put on sawmills, but at a higher flow rate. Might also need some type of oil/spark catcher so it doesn't make a total mess.

It seems to me this would not only improve the edge of the cutters, but prolong the life of the whole system. I understand that the current version is geared towards the homeowner, so maybe this option would be a bit advanced. Maybe when it hits stores I'll customize one with an oiler.

Note: make sure the oil isn't flamable.

 

[BloodOnTheIce]

I got one of these to demo from our Oregon Distributor yesterday. I slapped in on my MS211, and hate to admit it but, but the chain cuts well. I bucked up some red and white oak 12-16" diameter stuff and it cuts very well and holds an edge suprisingly well. I intentionally hit the dirt a few times and, and cut up the mudiest parts of the logs I could find, and it maintains an edge as well as the Stihl 63pmc, and Oregon 91vx I usually use. I'll post some pics later. It's not for everyone but, I'm a serious skeptic, and it seems to work well so far.

 

[computeruser]

I got one of these to demo from our Oregon Distributor yesterday. I slapped in on my MS211, and hate to admit it but, but the chain cuts well. I bucked up some red and white oak 12-16" diameter stuff and it cuts very well and holds an edge suprisingly well. I intentionally hit the dirt a few times and, and cut up the mudiest parts of the logs I could find, and it maintains an edge as well as the Stihl 63pmc, and Oregon 91vx I usually use. I'll post some pics later. It's not for everyone but, I'm a serious skeptic, and it seems to work well so far.

Ah, a first-hand report!

I think it's a great idea when compared to what the average user would be experiencing otherwise. Heck, even after a lecture when I gave my dad his new-used chainsaw, he went right out and started trenching out stumps and roots in mom's flowerbeds; there are now a handful of mangled 3/8" LP loops hanging on my grinder, waiting to be brought back to life. I may buy this system for him one of these days and take the other chains away.

 

[BloodOnTheIce]

i'll post pictures & video tomorrow if i've got time.

 

[billmartin]

Heck if you guys can't kill it that has to say something lol.

Both my dad and step-dad can sharpen WAY better than I can but I have some friends that well... lets say sparks happen and they keep trying.

I'm so glad they have wally world saws and aren't killing good ones.

When this hits the market let us know so I can help keep their crappers alive for a bit longer.

Bill

 

[fubar2]

I had a cheap little Mac back in the seventies with a barracuda chain and self sharpener. The chain was grabby and the first time I tried to sharpen it the stone exploded. It was the first and last one I ever had.

 

[Edge & Engine]

We have the PowerSharp starter kits in stock. Currently, the only motor mounts available are A074 (Stihl) and A041, a very popular motor mount used on many different brands.

http://www.edgeandengine.com/webstore/wecs.php?store=edge&content=oregon_powersharp.html



You can use the Oregon PowerSharp selector guide to find the right kit for your saw
http://www.powersharp.com/lookups/selguide.aspx?busid=pwrshrp&sellreg=namer&langid=eng

 

[Fish]

Fish,

Why don't ya just ask the guy?
LOL!!
Or at least do a better job of it. :monkey:




I have a stack of muddy skidded Elm, Cherry and maple to buck up, and was thinking one of these gizmotronic set ups might actually be worthwhile for such a thing just to save the files.

There might just be a use for the things beyond the Rock-o-matic homeowner market.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

Actually, I did ask.........

Well, kinda.....

I figured if they could get my stamp of approval, they would go for it.............

 

[lawnmowertech37]

OK, I'd never heard of it before, so thanks for enlightening me. Here's the link.
powersharp

Looks like it only works with PowerSharp bars and powerSharp chains.

There are no closeup pictures, but the chain looks a little funky. It is only sharpened from the top, and can only be sharpened 5 - 15 times. The sharpening stone must be replaced every time you replace the chain (and if you can only sharpen the chain 15 times, you'll be replacing lots of chains).

It's intended for clueless casual saw users who don't know how to sharpen a chain. It's probably worthwhile for those people. Don't think it will be catching on with serious chainsaw users, though.

That is cause it just came out on the market im in the process of adding these to the database once i get a image scanned out of the catalog

it dont work with electrical saws just gas powered
just got my new 2011 catalog recently so alot of new stuff in there

here is the catalog i have started there are two bar mount patterns the A041 and the A074 these are listed on each item in the description and will be also i make it easy and list the OEM applications on each item

http://www.cmsmallengines.net/orego...bars-and-chain/oregon-power-sharp-system.html

Do not forget the $ 10.00 rebate oregon is giving till 12-31-2010

those details are on the items as well

 

[briantutt]

I have got a loop of this crap if anyone wants it. 45DL stray that doesn't belong in my garage. I just figured out what it was today as I was sharpening all of my other chains. Oregon Tech manual says "no manual shaprening" so IMHO it's headed for the trash.