Oregon PowerSharp

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I have got a loop of this crap if anyone wants it. 45DL stray that doesn't belong in my garage.

If it has been hanging around your garage for a long time, it it probably the old style, 'self-sharpening' chain, which used a sharpenening stone built into the saw. I don't know if it is compatible with the new system, which uses a special bar-mounted sharpener and a bar with a specific nose radius to match.

Philbert
 
If it has been hanging around your garage for a long time, it it probably the old style, 'self-sharpening' chain, which used a sharpenening stone built into the saw. I don't know if it is compatible with the new system, which uses a special bar-mounted sharpener and a bar with a specific nose radius to match.

Philbert

:agree2:

It looks pretty wicked with the super pointy rakers but no use to me. I don't have any saws with a self sharpening system. The way the cutter is at such a steep angle and has been filed on the top I tend to agree.
 
I have got a loop of this crap if anyone wants it. 45DL stray that doesn't belong in my garage.


The new Powersharp chain just came to market in June of this year. If you've had the chain longer than that it is the previous version of PowerSharp. Please do not mix the new chains on the old sharpening systems or vice versa, as they are not compatible.

Each component on the new Powersharp chain is much different than the old version. One main differentiator is the two diamond coated links to dress the stone to the correct shape. The two diamond coated links keep the chain cutting fast through life.
 
Wood Doctor: Just to be sure, the sharpener is only attached during sharpening. The sharpener is taken off after sharpening so the full length of the bar can be used for cutting.


Fish: Check out this youtube video of a Danish guy demonstrating PowerSharp. When you were at the GIE show in Louisville, did they contact the concrete block as long or longer than shown in the video?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_w1LmEn67M4&feature=related
 
No the guys in Louisville were much more brutal, he ran the running tip
across the 8 inch surface cutting a deep slot all the way.

attachment.php


Here is a pic of the block, he is using it as a rest to sharpen the chain, but you can see the grooves.

I have not had a chance to cut a great deal with the system much more, as due to the economy and poor e-bay sales have had to get a night job.

But since I have sharpened it properly, it cuts like a champ, as well or better
than a new regular 3/8 lo pro chain, and will use it all winter. I think the design is a sound one, and it should do well.

I will be interested to see if is introduced with/for the larger chain pitches.

I noticed that the saws used in Louisville could have used a little more
"uuummmppphhh"
I am using a Poulan Pro that came out with a .325, and if I had gotten a Stihl mount, I would have run an 025
 
How long does it stay sharp? I guess my hang up is that I see the temper leaving the cutter after a few sharpenings, and maybe why this will be the only size (91 or L/P).
 
It seems to hold its edge well, it gets dull like a normal chain, when you hit
dirt, and of course, a cinder block.

The sharpening stone is large, I guess to help dissipate heat, the chain
doesn't look burned after sharpening.

My problem on my first sharpening is that I didn't hold it down long enough,
I was afraid of burning off the cutters, but they seem mighty tough.
The Oregon rep suggested a "FULL" 5 seconds at full throttle.....

And they still got many, many sharpenings, even dulling the chain continually on the cinder block for the crowd.
 
My Initial Opinions

Hey Gang, thanks to a Great AS member, I now have a 16" PS system on my little MS170.
View attachment 280680View attachment 280681
Now I've already Modded the Muffler on this saw some time back, so despite being only 30cc's, it does run out pretty well for what it is. I mainly use this saw for limbing and cutting up the tops as it's lighter than my MS290 and 038. I finally got the chance to use this setup on a big scaffold branch from a Curly Maple late last month. This scaffold branch, which was 24" at the crotch end, had broken at the crotch over a year ago, but it didn't break free from the trunk and the end limbs, touching the ground, kept the rest of it suspended to season out very nicely.:D I ran about 1 1/3 tanks of fuel through the saw with this setup on it. Never rocked it, never touched the sharpening cassette, and was pretty impressed that it performed just like it's advertised to. It seems to me, that it may be a tad bit faster through the cut compared to the picco micro I usually run on this saw. I couldn't get a fair comparison since the only picco micro I've got for this saw looks like this.
View attachment 280682
The chain is very aggressive compared to the Picco Micro chain, and a bit choppy IMHO. It likes to grab if you are cutting something smaller, say a 4" or smaller diameter limb and you aren't using a lot of throttle. You do have to be careful if you're cutting up this type of smaller wood out towards the bar tip and not against the saw body, as this chain will grab it and yank it to the saw body. I should have snapped some pics of the cut surface, but I had limited daylight and it was burning up quickly on me. Although the cutters working face is it's Top Plate, it does leave substantial grooves in the cut surface of the wood. I believe this is due to the point of the cutter being a bit more prominent compared to a standard cutter, and the angle looks to be a bit steeper as well. It does sever the fibers nicely and throws bigger chips than the Picco Micro.

I used the saw from the tip of the branch, up to about 14" diameter wood. Under normal circumstances I would have switched to the MS290 sooner, but I wanted to really get a good work out with the PS system. I will honestly say, with the experience I've had so far, I am itching to use it again, and I am really looking forward to trying out an 18" .325 setup for the MS290!
View attachment 280683
I thoroughly enjoy hand filing my chains, and I will continue to do so. But this setup will remain in my working collection. I have been cutting firewood all my life. I got my first saw when I was 9 years old, I am now 37. This year my 65 year old father will be retiring, and I will buy him one of these for his new tool-less Homelite saw. He also still heats with wood, and this is the Perfect Setup for a feller like him. Of course you know who, keeps him well stocked with firewood, but he does like to piddle around and cut up dead fall limbs and such.

I believe Oregon has figured this thing out. It's not for everyone, but it is for someone. I look forward to putting more time on it and sharing my experience with you all.

A Big Thank You to Philbert!:rock::cool2:
 
PowerSH-T

What a waste of money the teeth are not strong enough, I used one for 2 weeks and lost about 11 teeth of the chain!:msp_mad:
 
What a waste of money the teeth are not strong enough, I used one for 2 weeks and lost about 11 teeth of the chain!:msp_mad:


I think if you lost teeth you hit something hard. You would prob have lost a few teeth with standard chain.

I used powersharp a fair bit when it came out. Conclusions were:

It doesn't cut as fast or as efficiently as any standard chain even when new. If you hit something I could never get the edge back as it was when it was new out the box.

It's expensive.

In summary I'd say this chain is only for the homeowner who can't sharpen a saw themselves.

P.S a few collegues I sold powersharp to came back to me with the same conclusions. Everyone was very excited at first and where will this development lead... but all came back a little disappointed.


:msp_smile:
 
Powersharp

No only cut branches they were all different English types oak beech yew pine, using my Stihl 015L

Does not matter now, I use the powersharp 16" bars with normal chains on the 015L and If I get serious I use my Stihl 038 magnum:laugh:
Got rid of the Stihl and now use real Saws like a Danarm 125cc and 110s also a 923 Homelite none of which need a chain break! on tick over the chain does not move.
 
Power-crap

Teeth break, too expensive, and the stones don't stay attached to the sharpener. I am looking for something good to use.....not some Oregon crap or Carlton "lookalike" riveted onto Oregon chain. I'll take a reliable, good cutting Stihl chain any day!
 
Wow, some pretty harsh sentiments from a few of you guys.

Here's my experience:
I picked up the 14" b&c set some time ago when HD had a clearance. Didn't even have an applicable saw yet but for like $24, what the heck.
As luck had it, last winter I found a nearly-new little Echo at a garage sale-- it must have been broken-in bucking rounds flat on the gravel driveway; great saw, fubar chain. Perfect candidate!

Since then I've cut 2-3 cords of 3"-10" birch & alder with that combo. And it just likes to eat wood-- Digs right in like a half-scale chisel chain and throws big chips. Very unlike what I'd expect from a lo-kickback chain. It seems well matched to the saw, striking a balance between aggressiveness and maintaining chain speed. What's impressed me most tho' is how it's holding up-- it's stretched far less than it's got the right to, and, so far it's only needed two(!) touch-up sharpenings (once b/c I kissed the dirt). Out cutting w/ a buddy, he stops to dress his chain, I just keep going. FWIW, the bar still looks new too.
Despite the big box retail marketing, I feel like this is real equipment.
I keep hearing about how great the VXL chain is for smaller saws and I keep meaning to buy a loop, but just haven't been able to justify it-- the darn PowerSharp isn't getting any older.

My only gripe is its grabbiness. Due to the top-sharpening tooth shape maybe there's no way around it, it's just aggressive by nature. I love how the saw burrows into larger rounds, but cutting into smaller stuff requires the operator to be conscientious; make sure of your body position, have the chain up to full speed, and do not cut into unsecured branches! If not for that, I think it'd be the ultimate system for occasional users for pruning, small jobs, and storm cleanup because it's robust & foolproof.
I think that's the irony of PowerSharp, and why I don't quite know who to recommend it to-- it seems like a system most appealing to the amateur but its "bitey" aggressiveness makes it better suited to the kind of guys who've been doing this long enough take pride in their file-sharpening skill.
I take pride in having the sharpest hand-filed chains of my cutting buddies, nevertheless, if I come across an 18" PS kit for my 026, I'm buying it.

-Eric.
 
UPDATE - I have tried to replace the missing photos from this thread for continuity.

There have been several other PowerSharp threads since this one. I have been adding new comments and information in the thread linked below so that it most mostly stays in the same place.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/148391.htm

Philbert
 
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