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Not a gimmick. This is directly related to the life of the unit. No metal, no matter how expensive, will last forever. Conditions can develop inside a closed system that literally eats the parts, sometimes in a very short time period. If you look up some industrial accidents and the following investigations it will shed some light on the matter.

Koi ponds, swimming pools, city water supplies, automotive cooling systems, HVAC systems, and yes, even OWB, should all be tested and run within the design parameters for those systems.




Mr. HE:cool:
 
Since we're talking water....my CB 5036 was right on PH and nitrites that they suggest last year...this year PH was low nitrites right on. They said add more corrision inhitibor which I just did and it brough up the PH to the right level but of course now my nitrites are high..at 25 drops, they suggest up to 20.
I know it's not terribly high but what's the problem with high nitrites?
 
Not a gimmick. This is directly related to the life of the unit. No metal, no matter how expensive, will last forever. Conditions can develop inside a closed system that literally eats the parts, sometimes in a very short time period. If you look up some industrial accidents and the following investigations it will shed some light on the matter.

Koi ponds, swimming pools, city water supplies, automotive cooling systems, HVAC systems, and yes, even OWB, should all be tested and run within the design parameters for those systems.




Mr. HE:cool:


quality stainless with no ferrous is pretty stout....my great granddad's sap pans he used to boil are still like day 1.....
 
anti-Corrosion rod

geobckmstr,

On Taylor stoves there is a replaceable rod- geesh, what is it called.. anti-corrosion rod.

"A magnesium anode rod which attracts anodized particles in the water tank. This makes the rod most susceptible to corrosion and will evenutally require replacement."
 
A high PH (solution is a base) is similar to a low PH (solution is an acid) intheir effect on metal, either one WILL eventually eat the metal. The 24hr circulating pump will accelerate the wear on the metal parts in your system if the PH deviates too far from neutral (7).
 
geobckmstr,

On Taylor stoves there is a replaceable rod- geesh, what is it called.. anti-corrosion rod.

"A magnesium anode rod which attracts anodized particles in the water tank. This makes the rod most susceptible to corrosion and will evenutally require replacement."

Same thing as the sacrificial aluminum or magnesium anodes in water heaters and the zinc anodes on outboard motors and stern drives. You sacrifice something cheap and easily replaceable to galvanic corrosion rather than the expensive water tank or, in the case of the marine application, your propeller.
 
A high PH (solution is a base) is similar to a low PH (solution is an acid) intheir effect on metal, either one WILL eventually eat the metal. The 24hr circulating pump will accelerate the wear on the metal parts in your system if the PH deviates too far from neutral (7).

pH is measured in the range of 0-14 with 0 being more Acidic or "base" as you indicate, and 14 being more Alkaline. Also, as you stated, 7.0 is considered neutral.

I do know that in pressurized boiler applications you want the water to be more alkaline than neutral. The pH range you shoot for in a pressurized boiler vessel is 10.0 to 11.5

Does anyone know if this same range applies to non-pressurized vessels which is common to most OWB's ?? I am assuming it does, as my pH is currently running at 10.610 and Certified Labs indicated it was within recommendation.

but, still learning...
 
pH is measured in the range of 0-14 with 0 being more Acidic or "base" as you indicate, and 14 being more Alkaline. Also, as you stated, 7.0 is considered neutral.

I do know that in pressurized boiler applications you want the water to be more alkaline than neutral. The pH range you shoot for in a pressurized boiler vessel is 10.0 to 11.5

Does anyone know if this same range applies to non-pressurized vessels which is common to most OWB's ?? I am assuming it does, as my pH is currently running at 10.610 and Certified Labs indicated it was within recommendation.

but, still learning...

That's probably a little high, but nuthin to worry about.

And for the nonbelievers in water treatment...just let it go for awhile and see what happens!

Open systems, like my condenser water/cooling tower systems I have at work,like a PH of around 7-8.5, but it depends on how the incoming water is.
 

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