Parts for Stihl 034

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tlbranth

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My son bought this saw on Craigslist. He's broke but needs it for his business (occasionally). It runs but won't idle. Ignition looks good, carburetion looks good. Piston is toast, cylinder is iffy. I could attempt to clean up the cylinder with muriatic acid? (is this the stuff to get piston pieces off the cylinder?) and put in new piston, or go for a piston/cylinder kit. The stihl parts are out of the question because of price. Does anyone have experience with the aftermarket stuff? Bailey's has a piston for $30 and a piston/cylinder for $100. The saw shop says it's junk made in China. The cylinders are chrome plated instead of Chrome imbedded and don't hold up. Need some viable options so any advice here would be welcome. I have extensive mechanical experience - limited to cars & motorcycles. Thanks for your help
 
It would help if you post some pics of the cylinder.

If your son plans to use this saw alot for his business, I would suggest using a OEM Stihl cylinder and piston. For occasional use most aftermaket parts are acceptable.

On the other hand, using a Stihl with aftermarket parts for heavy use is still better than using most other makes.

Is it a standard 034 or an 034 Super?
 
As mentioned pics would be great. Cylinder will most likely clean up. The Meteor pistons from Baileys are awesome. The NWP top ends, from the few I have in service(3), are very nice. However, using the stock cylinder is probably best. If it is a regular 034, the NWP top end will be 034 super/036- ish and will be a nice boost.
 
I may be wrong about this, but I thought you had to change the muffler too if you put a 034 Super/036 Cylinder and Piston on a standard 034?
 
I have used a couple of the aftermarket cylinder kits for the 036 and they looked and worked just fine. The last one I boughta couple of months ago wasn't but $108 shipped.

Just check the ports carefully and remove any flaky looking plating if there is any. But, the ones I used were slick as a baby's butt.
 
Here ya go

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The cylinder looks like it will clean up nicely. The piston is toast. I would try some acid and sand paper and give it a shot. You have nothing to loose. If it doesn't work, then look for a new one.
 
My son bought this saw on Craigslist. It runs but won't idle. Ignition looks good, carburetion looks good.
You need to determine why the old piston died. It may have simply been straight-gassed.

But to be sure, do a vacuum test to check for leaks -- BEFORE attempting to run the saw again. Inspect the fuel lines and impulse line. If the saw is sucking air through a seal or a hose, that'll fry the engine.
 
You need to determine why the old piston died. It may have simply been straight-gassed.

But to be sure, do a vacuum test to check for leaks -- BEFORE attempting to run the saw again. Inspect the fuel lines and impulse line. If the saw is sucking air through a seal or a hose, that'll fry the engine.

I agree on the air leak test, but that cylinder has scoring all the way around which indicates straight gas. Usually an air leak will score the exaust side .
 
Thanks everyone for helping out. Looks like I should have a go at cleaning up the cylinder. So for that do I use muriatic acid? Where do I get it? Do I need any particular acid strength? What kind of sandpaper - 1000 grit silicone carbide do it? Thanks again.
 
Thanks everyone for helping out. Looks like I should have a go at cleaning up the cylinder. So for that do I use muriatic acid? Where do I get it? Do I need any particular acid strength? What kind of sandpaper - 1000 grit silicone carbide do it? Thanks again.

You can get good muriatic acid at building supply stores, it is used to clean up masonary mortar and concrete splatter. You can use 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper to get the better part of the aluminum off and finish up with 400-500 grit machine paper to give it a nice crosshatch pattern break in hone like surface.
Pioneerguy600
 
Hit it with some 320 wet/dry and dish detergent lightly with your finger, followed by a good rinse, before you use the acid. You want to get the oil out so the acid can do it's thing. Then alternate between the sandpaper, rinse, acid, rinse.........when it's nearly cleaned up go to 400 or finer grit.

P.S. something is messed with the site, asks me to login to see the pics (I'm already logged in) , and logging in again don't help...........
 
That cylinder looks identical to the one that I cleaned up my my MS200T. I never did use the acid. I just went with 1000 grit then 2000. Both dry. I did the same for the piston and mine looked about the same to yours when I started. The saw shop knew what I was doing when I ordered 2 piston rings and a base gasket after pricing out a jug/slug. They warned me sanding the piston down would probably make it run poorly on idle but mine runs perfectly. I've been told more than once I got really lucky. I would polish the cylinder and piston with the sand paper first. Toss a set of rings in it and see what happens. I only tried this because I was broke when I fixed my 200 and it worked out well. I've been using it every other weekend or so for the last year. For what its worth, I had a shop look at it after I got it back together and running to figure out what went wrong. They figured out the carb needed a rebuild and in the end it got a new OEM carb.
 
I agree on the air leak test, but that cylinder has scoring all the way around which indicates straight gas. Usually an air leak will score the exaust side .
I bought my 044 straight gassed and only the exhaust side was scored,the intake side was fine.The cylinder cleaned up good but had a couple scratches in the combustion chamber.
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