Peavey or Cant hook?

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NapalmDeath

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I'm looking at purchasing either a Cant Hook or a Peavey and was wondering which one is better suited for homeowner use or which one is prefered over the other. I'm leaning towards the Stihl 42" Cant Hook even though it's a few bucks more than the LogRite tools brand though they are both made by LogRite. I have also seen other brands that have wood handles which are as low as half as much as the aluminum handle versions. So which is the prefered type, Cant or Peavey? Aluminum or wood?
 
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I use both regularly. Mine are wood handled. The peavey is over 30 years old with the original handle. The Log rite tools look to be very well made.

I think that if you are moving logs above 20" or so you will want a fairly long handle. I like a short 4' cant hook for small logs and a five ft.+ peavey for big stuff. You can stab a peavey in the ground to keep it handy and it is real useful as a pry bar if you are working with big rounds or logs. But the point is just in the way on small logs.
 
Peavey, cause you can stick it in a log, stump, the ground. A cant will get lost easily, or run over. Probably the best reason for one.
 
CANT HOOK: (flat nose on working end of handle):
A4canthk.jpg



PEAVEY HOOK: (pointed end for jamming into log - better torque/grip):
029-048-0017.jpg
 
Logrite Peavey

I'm new to what a peavey would do. When I'm in the woods, I have a heavy black steel rod about 5' long that I picked up at Lowes and use it to pry the log over or move it around. Would a Logrite Peavey pick the log up and lift it off the ground just enough to keep the saw blade from hitting the ground? I'm wondering if I can buck a tree without the log stand ($35 option)? Any advice on this would be helpful. I'm thinking about purchasing something to help me in the woods asap and want to spend $100+ wisely.
Thanks.
 
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Maul...... you want a timber jack. Similar, but with a leg opposite the hook. Roll the log over onto the leg and its up outta the dirt so you can make your cut.
 
how much is the stihl peavey vs logrite?

I'm looking at purchasing either a Cant Hook or a Peavey and was wondering which one is better suited for homeowner use or which one is prefered over the other. I'm leaning towards the Stihl 42" Cant Hook even though it's a few bucks more than the LogRite tools brand though they are both made by LogRite. I have also seen other brands that have wood handles which are as low as half as much as the aluminum handle versions. So which is the prefered type, Cant or Peavey? Aluminum or wood?
 
Ductape,
since you mentioned the timber jack for lifting the logs to cut it off the ground. Ran in to the problem of cutting logs that are 60' long and resting on the ground. Trying to cut the logs without hitting the ground and the timber jack can't roll the logs because of the size. Looking for any shortcuts to get the logs off the ground and get a log under it. Any suggestions?
 
I tried the timberjack, same story. Can' just lift a log without rolling, and by definition, mostly the logs needing lifting have branches etc that can't be rolled.

I added a pivoting foot to my cant hook. That does alow some lift, enoughh to kick some blocking under it, and get new bite and lift again. Works well up to 18-20 inches or so, workable but hard after that.

pic on this thread

http://www.**********/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/14869/
 
TimberJack?

About $40 will get you this one:
11902_lg.gif

Sale price at Northen Tools. The log must roll a little for it to work. Sometimes that's just plain impossible.

Usually I can find a place where I can saw the log in half without a lift. Then the lift can take over from there.
 
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Doc,
Thats what I've been using but came across some logs which the town cut down. The problem is the logs are too long to roll and some are laying flat on the ground after making a few cuts. Thought about just taking a car jack just to get the logs off the ground and get a block under it. Just wondering how everyone else does it. Really like those skidding units for atvs.
 
I just use a peavey on my logs after I've cut them into rollable lengths. Make all the cuts 3/4 the way through, then roll and finish all the cuts.

When using a timber jack do you use a wedge every time to avoid pinching? Just curious.
 
That was the problem, trying to cut the logs into rollable pieces. Even with a wedge it is difficult to handle these larger logs. Hate to pass on these logs because they are right down the road. Dulling the chains quicker than I would like with the skidded logs, don't need to dull them quicker by hitting the ground.
 
I found my timberjack to be indispensible.....i rarely wedge when using it, because i jack, then cut beyond the jack. Chunk just falls off the end. That being said...... you guys are right, there are times its impossible to use. I have no magic tricks for those times. As mentioned..... cutting most of the way through then rolling can be done. If possible, maybe you can use a come-along with a nylon strap to a nearby tree...... lift the log enough to shove a chunk of wood under the center (watch yourself!) then cut. When i'm out cutting, i've got my timberjack, comealong, couple nylon straps, chains,5' pinch bar,sledge,maul,wedges,etc.,etc. I bring home some big rounders cuz i have a couple friends that are afraid of them (nancy boys!). I don't like leaving anything behind because its too big. I too am open to new methods if anyone has suggestions !!:dizzy: :dizzy:
 
I am vry picky about never ever touching dirt.

For smaller stuff, up to maybe 18 icnhes, I use the cant with pivoting foot directly.

For larger stuff, I found a piece of oak 4x4 square that was cut as a taper. 0 to 4 inches high in about 18 inches long. I put a piece of 4 to 8 inch diameter round, about 18 inches long, parallel to the trunk and kick in under as far as possible on one side. Go to other side, either use the cant with the pivot foot, or fold the foot back and just use it as a lever. put another small round next to the trunk as a pivot point, and use the cant over it as lever. With a little bouncing and get some momentum, I can lift enough for the helper (I never cut alone) to slide the wedge under it. Once that is in, it's easy to keep bouncing, rocking, or levering as approriate. Mvoing the wedge in, then thorw some rounds in crosswise under it. Then start bucking off the suspeended end. Quicker than it sounds.

kcj
 
I'll have to get some pics of the trees and see what every ones opinion is. The easiest solution,atleast for this haul of wood, would be to leave a present for the excavator operator and have him stack the logs. Too bad it doesn't work for most loads.
 

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