Philbert's Chain Salvage Challenge

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I think I'll see how it cuts in as is condition and go from there.

I have some Mall repair kits so I can replace some of the worst cutters.
8913a133e0890e4da4d059af000fafae.jpg

Above with 3/8" Remington for contrast.
 
Bump

Quiet on the challenge side, but salvaging continues! Still picking up chains at garage sales, etc. Recently got a 5 gallon bucket of chains for $10 (bucket alone was worth $2), including some long bar STIHL chains. Still evening up chains wildly out of balance from careless hand filing, or heavily damaged from an encounter with a rock, or so caked with gunk that their mother would not recognize them. Still re-sizing loops to fit, or replacing damaged links.

Still following the basic processes described in these threads:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...nding-and-drive-link-deburring-wheels.284866/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/baileys-chain-breaker-and-spinner.144859/

A good cleaning process; a good grinder; and a good spinner / breaker set go a long way in salvaging chains.

Philbert
 
Bump

Quiet on the challenge side, but salvaging continues! Still picking up chains at garage sales, etc. Recently got a 5 gallon bucket of chains for $10 (bucket alone was worth $2), including some long bar STIHL chains. Still evening up chains wildly out of balance from careless hand filing, or heavily damaged from an encounter with a rock, or so caked with gunk that their mother would not recognize them. Still re-sizing loops to fit, or replacing damaged links.

Still following the basic processes described in these threads:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...nding-and-drive-link-deburring-wheels.284866/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/baileys-chain-breaker-and-spinner.144859/

A good cleaning process; a good grinder; and a good spinner / breaker set go a long way in salvaging chains.

Philbert
Fabulous find! I ran into a similar gold mine about three years ago when a logger buddy gave me his collection of "worn out" chains for big bars. He had also thrown them into a bucket. I converted half of them to shorter chains and am still using almost all of them. Most of his chains were for 3' bars. I threw away sections that were impossible to fix and saved the rest.
 
Since this is supposed to be a challenge... Anyone think they can fix this chain up? Was on a MS170 I fixed the recoil on for a neighbor.. he should be kept away from chainsaws methinks... I got a cooked 394 for fixing the 170, and it had the parts I needed to fix my other 394.. so I was happy

BTW, all he uses is old engine oil for bar oil.. thing was disgusting to work on
Sorry for the grainy pic, but I think you get the idea
IMG_0739sm.jpg IMG_0735sm.jpg
 
The top, well what should one say, looks like it is replacement time. :numberone: Reminds me of my first grinding experiences with the Stihl 180 were the chain ripped due to only a slight cut into the rivet area. :eek:

Looks like sloppy file work. Would present him with a filing aid like the Husqvarna roller guide.

7
 
I got in a hurry once and set my wheel too deep in the gullet of a 3/8LP chain and ran the chain for a customer. I was embarrassed when I realized what I had done. Chain was no longer safe to run as I had cut the drive links almost down to the rivet. Customer got a brand new chain out of the deal for free! I got a lesson in PAYING ATTENTION!!!! :surprised3: :D
 
Not that its right, but all my dad's chains come back from the local Stihl dealer like that... with cuts in the links. Never thought about it prior to being on this site.
 
Not that its right, but all my dad's chains come back from the local Stihl dealer like that... with cuts in the links. Never thought about it prior to being on this site.
Yeah I'd look elsewhere for sharpening then. Heat damaged cutters and excessive metal bent over the top of the cutter are also signs that the sharpening person isn't doing it right.
 
Hey @Philbert ,

found a vid that really amazes me. Ever wonder what it looks like under a mikroskop to see what a chisel is doing?



7
 
Since this is supposed to be a challenge... Anyone think they can fix this chain up?
'P-R-O-B-A-B-L-Y'

It is often possible to 'even out' cutters like that with some careful grinder work. But that may require taking them back to an EOL ('end of life') state - good for one last rodeo, or stumping. So it may not be worth the effort to some, challenges aside.

If several of the tie straps are damaged like that, the chain is pretty weak and 'iffy'. One could be replaced on an 'otherwise good' loop. Or wear the heavy PPE when running it!

Cleaning would not be an issue. That loop has clearly been run hard, and not treated with care. But it it was the only loop I had, we could make it still cut a bunch more wood!

Philbert
 
ALL the tie straps on one side are like that.. evidently he couldn't figure out how to file the same way on one side.. Probably used a far too big file, and pulled up on it. Biggest worry for me are the tie straps being cut nearly to the rivet center.. I would also be able to salvage it enough to cut a little more.

My husky 35 has a MISERABLE chain on it.. broke a cutter off and it's at end-of-life as well.. Last job it had was cutting aluminum irrigation pipe that was in a forest fire... sure beat the tar out of hacksawing it
 
Just Scraping By . . .

This was a hopeful chain submitted by an A.S. member. Covered in gunk, it cleaned up to be Poulan branded chain with limited use on the cutters.

IMG_5809.jpg

Hard to see, unless in good light (and hard to photograph - sorry), but every cutter on the loop was abraded on the top and side plate, in a smooth, almost polished manner (see color and reflection differences in photos), essentially creating reverse bevels. In other words, the cutting edges were now angled away from the wood fibers.

I was not present when this occurred, but I assume that it was not a misguided attempt at sharpening. Although, it is more common to see abrasions on the top plate only, or predominantly on one side, when accidentally hitting a rock. This user must have tried to power through something really abrasive, like cement board?
IMG_5807.jpg
IMG_5809.jpg
IMG_5808.jpg
Screen shot 2016-11-17 at 11.27.20 AM.png

Can it be saved? Yes - by grinding back almost 1/2 of each tooth, creating an end-of-life chain (note that some cutters were abraded back farther than those shown). That's a lot of work for a small return.

Thought about lowering the depth gauges significantly, to allow the cutters to rotate back father, which might allow the bevel to 'bite', but that would not help the abraded side plates cut the walls of the kerf.

WINNER? The rock, brick, or whatever the chain hit.

LESSONS? Look before you cut! If you hit something - STOP!

Philbert
 
Last thing I hit was a self-drilling, self tapping sheet metal screw with a 1/2 life chain that was good and sharp.. mangled it good too!. I was cutting a stacked pile of logs that had been under a greenhouse when the snow collapsed it, and I guess one of the screws popped out and fell on the stack, and I just HAD to hit it.. At least the screw didn't suffer.
 
Since this is supposed to be a challenge... Anyone think they can fix this chain up? Was on a MS170 I fixed the recoil on for a neighbor.. he should be kept away from chainsaws methinks... I got a cooked 394 for fixing the 170, and it had the parts I needed to fix my other 394.. so I was happy

BTW, all he uses is old engine oil for bar oil.. thing was disgusting to work on
Sorry for the grainy pic, but I think you get the idea
View attachment 532302 View attachment 532303
I would toss that chain. The tie strap above the rivet it almost fully filed through. No way I would run that. Just asking for it to come apart IMO.
 
How come the bottom is so worn? Is this indicative of a well worn sprocket?
Assuming the chain in Post #353?

The Oregon Maintenance and Safety Manual says that wear in the center/saddle of the tie straps and cutters is typical from a worn spur sprocket. The peening on the very bottom is from chain tension.

Philbert
 
How come the bottom is so worn? Is this indicative of a well worn sprocket?
Assuming the chain in Post #353?

The Oregon Maintenance and Safety Manual says that wear in the center/saddle of the tie straps and cutters is typical from a worn spur sprocket. The peening on the very bottom is from chain tension.

Philbert
Stuff like this is why I love this place.
 
Assuming the chain in Post #353?

The Oregon Maintenance and Safety Manual says that wear in the center/saddle of the tie straps and cutters is typical from a worn spur sprocket. The peening on the very bottom is from chain tension.

Philbert
I might add that peening (or burring) on the bottom of the drive link teeth can also be created by a chain flying off the bar. It can get so bad so quickly that you cannot even mount the same chain back onto the bar without removing the burrs.
 

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