I wondered how a “dual angle” cutting edge would work if we cleaned up the first half and let the second half trail off. My chain looks kinda like that right now. It cuts OK. One more sharpening and it will clean up.
Philbert's Chain Salvage Challenge
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That’s sort of how they work, with all the compound angles built into the cutter profiles, using the ‘down angles’, etc.
Philbert
Philbert
Maybe get a tiny round file and make serrated edges. LOL!
Also been discussed before:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/why-not-serrated-chains.108951/
Philbert
Well I'm still at it....the chain rocks so much in my jig (clamps are adjusted all the way in) Im really hitting the drive links and straps, hopefully not enough to cause a failure. But Im getting a sharp edge, and using 4mm (5/32) file which should be correct for a 1/4 chain??
I file a cutter or 2 when i have time haha, which is rare.
Do I need a progressive depth tool or can I just use an Oregon .025" depth gauge?
I file a cutter or 2 when i have time haha, which is rare.
Do I need a progressive depth tool or can I just use an Oregon .025" depth gauge?
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Should not be hitting the tie straps; might be too low? Might get some better advice in the Granberg thread. Maybe your clamps can be shimmed, or slightly reformed, to grab the thinner chain? A stable chain is much easier to shape / sharpen consistently. This is where filing vices excel.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/
Depends on your chain and your preferences. Details in the above thread for setting depth gauges with the Granberg. You might set the first one using a straight edge and feeler gauges.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/depth-gauge-tools-for-saw-chain.279374/
Philbert
Thank you! Will look into both links.
Sorry for "cheating" and not scanning all 26 pages, but was there a consensus reached in this thread of the best product to remove rust from chains? Evaporust? Vinegar?
I haven't counted or gone through them yet, but yesterday I brought home probably 20-25 chains from my wife's late grandfather's barn. A few are pretty rusted but cutters are still long. A lot of old chains, I didn't have time to examine them but many looked larger than 3/8, could be some old .404 in there.
I promise pictures will be coming Philbert , haha
I haven't counted or gone through them yet, but yesterday I brought home probably 20-25 chains from my wife's late grandfather's barn. A few are pretty rusted but cutters are still long. A lot of old chains, I didn't have time to examine them but many looked larger than 3/8, could be some old .404 in there.
I promise pictures will be coming Philbert , haha
If you just read the first handful of pages of the thread, Philbert covers just about every process available for this.
There are tradeoffs: cost, discoloration, speed, toxicity, etc. . .
Most of the rust stuff is addressed early on. A couple of key things:
- Clean the chains first to remove any dirt, grease, and flaking rust, so that the rust removing chemicals or process can reach the remaining rust, and do their job. My cleaning approach is covered in this thread:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/
- Remember that *rust eats metal*: removing rust does not replace lost metal. Always inspect for damage, integrity, etc. after cleaning and de-rusting.
- Sometimes, the best option is to punch out and break away heavily damaged / rusted sections and reassemble into a shorter or combined loop.
Philbert
That can knock off some the outer gunk, such as if the chains are covered in sap, etc., and can be a preliminary cleaning method. But it will not clean off the baked on asphalt looking gunk, or the light rust, that resides in the recesses between links, on the insides of tie straps and cutters, around the rivets, etc. Those places need a chemical soak, some light brushing, maybe a dip in an ultrasonic cleaner (USC) to get really clean. The difference between wiping off some sweat with your dirty bandanna, and a nice soak in a hot tub or sauna.
I found that some 'frozen' links on older chains that I though were rusted, were really just bound up by dried grease that had hardened. See Post #112.
That's a nice start, and why you need to figure out efficient methods.
Philbert
Good to experiment with using different methods: little to lose. You will quickly find out which chains are worth the effort.
Philbert
For the really nasty chains, i think the first step will be the wire wheel on my bench grinder. Then maybe I'll get a gallon of that Super Clean for the rest of the corrosion and see how it comes out . If the chrome is gone from the cutters, does that mean it's junk?
Can't recommend the wire wheel - too aggressive, and may scratch or damage the good parts of the chain. Also, it may rip the chain out of your hands! A more 'gentle' way is to drive a screw or nail into a scrap board (or work bench) so that you can stretch the loop out a bit, and hit it with a stiff brush to knock the loose stuff off. I like the fine wire, stainless steel, 'scratch brushes' (third from the right in photo below) sold by welding supply store for TIG welding. Under $1 each here, and much better than the junk ones (2 at far left) that sell for more at the home centers.
Super Clean is a water based degreaser (containing 'lye' -sodium hydroxide); it will not remove rust, but will remove the grease, allowing the rust removing chemicals to reach the remaining corrosion. Light surface rust is usually not a problem. Deep, pitted rust damages the underlying metal.
See what works for you, and please post your results here for others.
The chrome protects the cutter from abrasion. Once its gone, the cutter can still cut, but will be subject to faster wear. Apparently, some race chain makers actually remove the chrome intentionally (?). Again, experiment with these chains to see what you learn. Then make choices about which ones are worth saving. Some of those look like cool, older chains. Some of those cutters will also need a lot of attention, once the rust is cleaned up.
Philbert
Wouldn't those be the 2 on the left?
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