Philbert's Chain Salvage Challenge

[scottr]

Jury is out on CLR...it definitely attacked the rust, but in ways I've yet to be seen. Seems to have removed rust but also turned the chain into a rigid chunk of metal which took some effort to get some links moving again. It's turned a blackish color with some white powder, i scraped much of it off with my brush but it's still ugly and rigid. Next step is trying a suggestion from Scottr, a good ATF soak, Ill give that a few days and see what I have.

Of course, once all this is done, Ill have to see if I have a saw that it will fit! I've got small McCullochs in 3/8 LP with 12, 14, and 16 inch bars.

Hey MacAttack , the blackish color with white powder is what Ospho does to rusty metal to neutralize the rust so you can pain it . Ospho contains phosphoric acid that changes iron oxide to iron phosphate .
It will be interesting to see if the ATF soak will allow you to scrub away the black crust .

 

[MacAttack]

Yeah the CLR doesn't seem like a good thing to use for this, it looks like I can get Metal Rescue or Evaporust on Amazon, might try one of those.
This particular chain will probably need some more elbow grease to get cleaned up and freed up. It seemed to be loosening up in the ATF, which doesn't surprise me as ATF has great anti-rust properties.

 

[67L36Driver]

3/4" pitch, I never bothered to check the gauge since I don't have anything else to use anyway.

Mark

Possibly harvester chain territory. [emoji2960]

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Your ATF solution will likely have better results breaking loose rusty parts and chains if mixed at a 50/50 ratio with acetone, (though not necessarily as a rust remover per se). It's been a redneck penetrating oil alternative for years -- and is proven to work better than most commercially available penetrating products time and time again.

I recently ran across this video that explains why.

​

 

[MacAttack]

Your ATF solution will likely have better results breaking loose rusty parts and chains if mixed at a 50/50 ratio with acetone, (though not necessarily as a rust remover per se). It's been a redneck penetrating oil alternative for years -- and is proven to work better than most commercially available penetrating products time and time again.

I recently ran across this video that explains why.

​

I didn't even think of adding acetone but I have definitely used the 50/50 acetone/atf mixture in the past. Ill think about whether I want to do that or just see if it frees up on it's own, I feel like I'm using up a lot of fluids to fix this old chain, haha.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Decided to salvage old chains another way.

 

[Short timer]

Did that automatic sharpener ever get a final approval?

 

[Philbert]

The first 9 or so pages of this thread focused heavily on rust. I did try the Acetone / ATF mixture, but ti did not work any wonders for me. Even after an extended soak.


And remember, removing rust does not replace lost metal! (*this chain was de-rusted trying a variety of different methods)


Philbert

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I included the disclaimer that it was not intended to be used as a rust remover, but rather suggested it as a penetrant / lubricant for helping to free up stubborn situations.

 

[MacAttack]

My current plan for old rusty chain #1 is to get it freed up, sharpen the cutters, put it on a saw and run it clean.

 

[Philbert]

My current plan for old rusty chain #1 is to get it freed up, sharpen the cutters, put it on a saw and run it clean.

More ambitious than most; their plan is 'toss it and buy a new one!'

Personally, I think the inquiry is worth a bit of investigation: the whole point of this thread! See what can be saved and how, and motivate others to try! Thanks for posting your efforts.

Philbert

 

[MacAttack]

More ambitious than most; their plan is 'toss it and buy a new one!'

Personally, I think the inquiry is worth a bit of investigation: the whole point of this thread! See what can be saved and how, and motivate others to try! Thanks for posting your efforts.

Philbert

I'm a compulsive salvager of things tossed away, given a new loop of chain is easily $20 at any rate, definitely worth the effort!

More to come...

 

[Woodslasher]

Here’s a handy wear chart I think you guys will enjoy.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I don't see a "being run while severely rusted" cause and remedy..

 

[Philbert]

I don't see a "being run while severely rusted" cause and remedy..

!!!

Here’s a handy wear chart I think you guys will enjoy.

Thanks for posting that @Woodslasher. I tried to sharpen it up a little:


Oregon also has good information on diagnosing wear of chains, bars, and sprockets in their 'Maintenance and Safety Manual':
(click this link) https://www.oregonproducts.eu/en/support/useful-information/maintenance-safety-manual.html
And STIHL in their 'Bar and Chain Manual' (attached).

 

[Woodslasher]

I stole the chart from the front of an Intertec Saw Manual book I have. The have the ipl’ s and service notes for all the saws made at the time of publishing. McCulloch, Husky, Allis Chalmers, Homelite, Stihl, etc. They are the best all around saw care books I’ve seen.

 

[MacAttack]

Hey chain experts, I know this is the chain salvage thread....but can anyone tell me what the heck kind of chain this is on a 10-10 that my Dad gave me? What is going on with those depth gauges?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Oregon Vanguard safety chain. Actually pretty decent chain despite that style of raker..., which needs adjusted just like any other raker, btw. Just requires a little more work -- which that entire chain needs a bunch of.

Looks like a nice score bar-wise.

 

[MacAttack]

Oregon Vanguard safety chain. Actually pretty decent chain despite that style of raker..., which needs adjusted just like any other raker, btw. Just requires a little more work -- which that entire chain needs a bunch of.

Looks like a nice score bar-wise.

Very cool, thanks!

I have to measure but I think it's a 24" roller-tip bar, nice condition too.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

That's just a replaceable sprocket tip bar, not a roller-nose.