Philbert's Chain Salvage Challenge

[Philbert]

That bar has a sprocket nose, with bearings, but ‘roller nose’ usually refers to noses like this:


We should start a ‘Guide Bar Challenge’ thread! Except that I cannot weld and machine rail chips, and stuff, like @srcarr52 can. And I would want to buy a BarShop, and one of those bar straightening machines, and a nice bar grinder, and . . .

Philbert

 

[Woodslasher]

That bar has a sprocket nose, with bearings, but ‘roller nose’ usually refers to noses like this:
View attachment 859899

We should start a ‘Guide Bar Challenge’ thread! Excited that I cannot weld and machine rail chips, and stuff, like @srcarr52 can. And I would want to buy a BarShop, and one of those bar straightening machines, and a nice bar grinder, and . . .

Philbert

I'm up for that! Gimme a couple of months and I'll get some hardnosed bars with the hardfacing worn off and a bad sprocket nose or two and see if I can't rejuvenate them. I've already freed up a few rusted bar tips, two rollernose and a sprocket, but I could try to find some more to document for posterity.

 

[Philbert]

Some Guide Bar Salvaging References on A.S.

I'm up for that!

Here's some related threads on bar salvaging / maintenance:

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/nose-sprocket-rescue-illustrated.256640/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bar-dressing.315936/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bar-shop.327596/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/guide-bar-welding.330999/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bar-tender-please.337435/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/guide-bar-rail-closing-tool.329164/


Philbert

 

[MacAttack]

Thanks for clarifying the terminology, I just used those terms interchangably. Now I know!

 

[MacAttack]

Guess what else I got in my bar finds with those rusty chains?

Some rusty sprocket tip bars for old Homelites.

 

[Philbert]

Guess what else I got in my bar finds with those rusty chains? Some rusty sprocket tip bars for old Homelites.

Rusty or stuck / seized?

I received one of the replaceable sprocket nose ('RSN') tips that was 'frozen': the sprocket would not move, and I assumed that it was rusted. Turned out to be hardened grease in the bearings. Some attention with a light oil (3-In-1), while working it a little bit, freed it up. Solvent lubes like WD-40, Kroil, etc., could also work.

Philbert

 

[MacAttack]

Rusty or stuck / seized?

I received one of the replaceable sprocket nose ('RSN') tips that was 'frozen': the sprocket would not move, and I assumed that it was rusted. Turned out to be hardened grease in the bearings. Some attention with a light oil (3-In-1), while working it a little bit, freed it up. Solvent lubes like WD-40, Kroil, etc., could also work.

Philbert

I need to inspect them closer, I am thinking some of both. All I know is that I will not be soaking them in CLR.

That rusty chain i was working on that I soaked in CLR...I am literally freeing up one link at a time with a pair of vicegrips and a large pliers.

 

[scottr]

Hey MacAttack , is that the same chain that you soaked in CLR and said that you were going to give a ATF soak ?

 

[scottr]

Is the black crust softened so the brush removes it ?

 

[siouxindian]

Is the black crust softened so the brush removes it ?

black crust matters.

 

[MacAttack]

Yeah same chain, the ATF helped but the CLR was not a good idea, I think it made it worse to free up the links.

 

[svk]

Some Guide Bar Salvaging References on A.S



Philbert

Pretty cool Vid.....certainly cost prohibitive unless you have an obsolete mount/long bar but still neat to watch.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

black crust matters.

Tasteless and classless.

 

[siouxindian]

black crust matters.

 

[Philbert]

That article seems to confuse power tools and hand tools quite a bit.

Philbert

 

[heimannm]

Woodslasher sent me another saw for the museum, this time an electric Mall. The chain was in need of attention. Notice the removeable pin, someone had either tried to peen it or thought they needed to drive it through the chain to get it installed.



I gave this one a 3 or 4 day soak in the same gallon of Metal Rescue that I used on the chain from the two man saw. Following that I rinsed it off in the parts washer and gave it some additional attention with a wire brush. I think it came out very nicely.





Mark

 

[Woodslasher]

I’m working on cleaning up a 50 foot roll of .404 x 0.058 I was given. I stink of vinegar and I’ve still got 40 feet to go, but I’ll be set for life with that stuff!

 

[Woodslasher]

I spent last night shortening two 28 inch chains to fit a 24 inch bar, since both had large damaged sections. One had hit a rock and bent 3 cutters, the other was a .050 chain run in a .063 bar part of the time, the rest of the time it was run on the splined section of the clutch drum with the drivers sandwiched between the clutch cover and bar (not by me). The first was pretty straightforward, I punched out 8 drivers, re-joined it and was done. My OCD bit me in the @$$ on the second one, though. I thought it was a 92dl like the first, but it was a 93. So, after cutting 2 extra drivers off and re-positioning them to get an "even" chain, I noticed two blank straps in a row, meaning I'd have to stagger the chain anyways and negating the need for cutting off some of those drivers. On the bright side, I learned if you are trying to cut off a "tail" driver, grinding off the rivet heads and then hand-punching out the rivets makes life way easier.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I have also run into the situation where a punch/press will not knock out a rivet. For years I used to just grind them flat with a chain sharpener's grinding wheel as you show in the last Pic. Glad I learned how to do that back then because on occasion it is the only removal solution.

In retrospect, I have usually found that saving a chain as you described will sometimes take twice as long to accomplish as making a new chain, and your nerves tend to be shot when through. It's a head shaker, but I do admire your tenacity.

 

[Woodslasher]

I have also run into the situation where a punch/press will not knock out a rivet. For years I used to just grind them flat with a chain sharpener's grinding wheel as you show in the last Pic. Glad I learned how to do that back then because on occasion it is the only removal solution.

In retrospect, I have usually found that saving a chain as you described will sometimes take twice as long to accomplish as making a new chain, and your nerves tend to be shot when through. It's a head shaker, but I do admire your tenacity.

Yeah, it took a long time and I could have easily made up a new chain in a fraction of the time with a fraction of the headache, but it was a loop that had never even been sharpened, so I figured it was worth the effort.