Picking up my Jonsered CS2240 today

[SkiWhiz]

I have a Jonsered CS2240 on layaway at Tractor Supply and am on my way out the door to pick it up. I recently sold my Stihl MS250 (good saw) because I had the itch to try something different. Our Church has a decent size dead oak tree that they want me to take down and cut up, it will be a good test for the little red rascal. Plan on going at the tree when I get home later today, will let you all know my thoughts of the 2240. Steve.

 

[Mac 6-10]

If its the same as the husky 435 I like mine. Light and powerful ( for a 40cc saw). The clutch is the weak point. Small and slips easily.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

decent size dead oak tree and 2240 dont sound like they belong together. :msp_scared:

 

[SkiWhiz]

Tried out the 2240 on the oak tree this afternoon that is after I finally got it started. I had a heck of a time getting it started and after it warmed up it still is hard to start. It seems to have decent power but not as much as the Stihl MS250 I had. I don't like that there is no way to hold the throttle down unless you hold it down by hand. Going to give Tractor Supply a call tomorrow and let them know that I am not happy with the saw, not sure what they will say/do as I have never had anything from them before that I wasn't happy with. I am hoping that they will take it back and not tell me to take it to a Jonsered dealer, the closet dealer is 20 miles away plus I wouldn't feel right taking it somewhere that didn't sell it to me.

 

[Trailtrimmer]

I don't like that there is no way to hold the throttle down unless you hold it down by hand.

Huh? Isn't that the point.

 

[dl5205]

I don't have any experience with that particular saw, but most (all?) husky/jonsereds DO have a hi-idle feature. Usually it is done by fully closing, then opening the choke.

 

[dl5205]

Also, the carb probably needs properly adjusted. Factory "settings" are iffy at best, and most likely on the bad lean side.

 

[Mac 6-10]

Calm down and give the saw a chance. Did you read your owners manual? the master control is way different than a stihl. if you dont follow directions on that saw exactly it will be a bear to start.

From cold

1. pull out and up on the choke lever
2.prime 6 times once fuel fills the bulb
3. pull the rope till it fires
4 push the choke lever down (do not use the trigger to do this or you will knock it off high idle)
5.pull rope till it starts (it will be on the high idle cam)
6. go cut wood


From warm

1. Pull up and out on the choke
2. push the choke down (this sets high idle/ no choke)
3. prime 6 times
4. pull till it starts.

Now that the new saw excitement is gone read the manual front to back. understand the features and how to use them. you have a nice saw with lots of technology. it not you old choke, pull, fire, unchoke, pull, run saw.

oh and tune it. my 435 out of box tune was so lean it wouldnt idle!

 

[dl5205]

If you haven't done so already, it would be a good idea to read the important parts of the operator's manual. I'm a big fan of reading owner's manuals (not just on saws), even if you feel familiar with the equipment. The older operator's manuals even had very good cutting technique information in them.

One thing I disagree with that is recommended by some manufacturers, is starting the saw with the chain brake on. But that is just me.

 

[XSKIER]

Congrats on the new saw! I can't get the pics to load, but I'm sure it looks great.

 

[SkiWhiz]

I will give the saw another chance, I did download the manual before I got the saw and read it probably some of it didn't sink in. I didn't know about the high idle thing, I was thinking that it should of been like most saws that you can hold down the throttle and lock it there to start it. It does sound odd that you have to prime it even when it is warmed up, but as you say it probably needs adjusting. I had a primer on my Dolmar 420 and I never had to use it cold start or warm. There was a knack to starting my Stihl 250 if I didn't do it correctly it would flood, so I guess every saw has a special way to get it going. Thanks for the reply's folks.

 

[SkiWhiz]

If its the same as the husky 435 I like mine. Light and powerful ( for a 40cc saw). The clutch is the weak point. Small and slips easily.

I noticed that.

 

[SkiWhiz]

Huh? Isn't that the point.

I meant that I didn't see a way to put it high idle for when starting it. Mac 6-10 explained how the high idle works & the proper way to start it.

 

[MindFork]

The saw needs to be tuned, broken in and retuned. By that point you'll have figured out how it likes to be started. Just like women, saws have their preferences in how to get them going.

Oh, and some friendly advice: don't sell any more of your saws. The ms250 is (was, in your case) a very competent little saw for limbing and medium firewood duty.

Your 2240 might also really wake up with a muffler mod (and another retune) so keep that in mind.

Next step: save up for a 70cc saw! You need more displacement to be able to fell those big oaks. Use the 2240 to limb and cut up the bigger branches.

 

[cory@owen]

Why did you get rid of the 420? I think I would have kept that one!

 

[SkiWhiz]

The saw needs to be tuned, broken in and retuned. By that point you'll have figured out how it likes to be started. Just like women, saws have their preferences in how to get them going.

Oh, and some friendly advice: don't sell any more of your saws. The ms250 is (was, in your case) a very competent little saw for limbing and medium firewood duty.

Your 2240 might also really wake up with a muffler mod (and another retune) so keep that in mind.

Next step: save up for a 70cc saw! You need more displacement to be able to fell those big oaks. Use the 2240 to limb and cut up the bigger branches.

I will take it and have it tuned even if the place I have to take it to didn't sell it to me (he was more money and only had the tool less chain tightener model and I didn't want that). I probably should of kept the MS250 it didn't get "stuck" in the wood as easy (I guess you could call it stronger).

 

[MindFork]

I will take it and have it tuned even if the place I have to take it to didn't sell it to me (he was more money and only had the tool less chain tightener model and I didn't want that). I probably should of kept the MS250 it didn't get "stuck" in the wood as easy (I guess you could call it stronger).

It'll get stronger with a proper tune and break-in. Then retune.

Best to learn how to tune yourself, because changing seasons and weather conditions will require some retuning. Here's a starting point: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/113538.htm
and also: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/245181.htm

 

[SkiWhiz]

Why did you get rid of the 420? I think I would have kept that one!

Chainsaws and metal detectors are my only hobbies and I like trying different brands/models. I have to sell or trade whatever I have in order to try something different due to my finances. I have only been able to have one saw at a time but I have had a few and like about all of them

Husky 350
Stihl 250
Jonsered 2150 Turbo
Echo 4400 I believe was the model
Dolmar 420
Around a 50cc Efco
A small Husky that I bought from a fella from on this forum
And some saws that I can't remember


I want to say thanks to you all, you's have been a wealth of information. I appreciate it very much.

 

[moody]

I will take it and have it tuned even if the place I have to take it to didn't sell it to me (he was more money and only had the tool less chain tightener model and I didn't want that). I probably should of kept the MS250 it didn't get "stuck" in the wood as easy (I guess you could call it stronger).

You need to break the saw in before you judge performance. It's a strato saw and they're notorious for taking a couple extra tanks to break in. I've seen people say the 372xt was a turd brand new then grab one that was broke in and say wow. You bought a homeowner grade saw don't expect it to amaze you. My cousins 2240 has been a great little saw for it's intended use.....small stuff. Keeping the work proportional to the saw will keep you happy. Don't walk up to a 25inch oak and expect a stock 40cc homeowner saw to wow you. You should find a nice used 60cc saw if that's the kind of wood you cut on a regular basis. I understand at times you'll have a tree that's going to make you work for it, but don't cut your steak with a butter knife.

 

[CR888]

but don't cut your steak with a butter knife.

I cut my dry aged steak with a butter knife:msp_biggrin: