Pioneer chainsaws

[Jersey Wdstove]

WOW! That hits like a ton of bricks! I'd thought about the fact that it's about 35 years old and new, but I guess hearing someone else say it is different.
Right now I'd feel a little guilty to get a bar and chain and start cutting with it.
I have access to other saws to do my cutting, but it's much easier to have your own saw, especially since I don't always know when I'll need it.
I'm thinking at least for now I'll see if the site generates any more thoughts on the matter.
Lawrence, thanks for the response.

Rob

 

[briantutt]

Nos 1200a

Diddo on the welcome to AS. Maybe you could post a few pics of that 1200A. A NOS complete saw would be cool to see. If it were me, I would keep it and find another one just like it thats used and run that one. Then you would know what it is like to use it but still have the collector version for fun! Plus you could answer your own questions on how the used one is SUPPOSED to be...

I'm sorta Jealous...

 

[pioneerguy600]

I also would advise not using it or even put oil or fuel in the tanks. If it is still in the original box then then keep it that way. If it is still sealed in the original box then don`t even open it. This advice comes from a collector. For someone who is not a collector then it is hard not to at least take the saw out and handle it but it would lose collectable points once opened or handled. Once fuel or oil has been put in it then it is classed as a used saw.
Pioneerguy600

 

[BloodOnTheIce]

I finally got my Pioneer 650 from UPS, it looks real solid, but the bar is hosed. Anyone know what bar would fit this saw? It's so old there's no help from Oregon or Windsor's websites.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I finally got my Pioneer 650 from UPS, it looks real solid, but the bar is hosed. Anyone know what bar would fit this saw? It's so old there's no help from Oregon or Windsor's websites.

The old 600 series saws took a Pioneer bar mount, no bar mount currently made will fit exactly. A Oregon D009 comes close but will need some modifying of the oil delivery holes and the sometimes the chain adjuster slot will need a little work for the pin to fit in. A new bar will not be as deep as the original and most new bars are 3/8" pitch, the 650 would have came with a .404 chain, check to see if the clutch sprocket is original .404 or if it has been changed over to 3/8". If all this seems like too much work then send me a PM.
Pioneerguy600

 

[BloodOnTheIce]

The old 600 series saws took a Pioneer bar mount, no bar mount currently made will fit exactly. A Oregon D009 comes close but will need some modifying of the oil delivery holes and the sometimes the chain adjuster slot will need a little work for the pin to fit in. A new bar will not be as deep as the original and most new bars are 3/8" pitch, the 650 would have came with a .404 chain, check to see if the clutch sprocket is original .404 or if it has been changed over to 3/8". If all this seems like too much work then send me a PM.
Pioneerguy600

The bar and chain are both .404, and the sprocket is an original Pioneer one since it still has green paint on it. Thanks for the help.

 

[Brmorgan]

Jerry, here's those 970 carcasses I picked up a while ago:

Not bad for free, might be able to make one runner with a couple more parts if I can find them when I get the money. The plug wire's been cut though, so I'm not sure if there's enough length there to repair it with a new boot. There isn't a coil on the other one. You can see the smashed in oil tank in the top saw. Looks like I'll be stripping them both to the nuts & bolts and putting the good parts on the other case.

If it matters, the top one does have a Tillotson carb, but it's odd. The adjustment screw (there's only one) is out of location - a hole has been drilled through the model identification plate to access it, and there's nothing behind the hole that's cast into the case. Must be a replacement for an OEM Pioneer carb, I assume? I noted on Acres' site that they were available with both carbs.

 

[propliner]

Brad, in a Service Bulletin dated 1973 there are instructions for converting the 970 carb to the newer Tillotson. It includes drilling a 19/64" hole in the left side and replacing the trigger and linkage. It also says to remove and discard the top cover.
Brendon.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Hi all - new to the site and don't know too much about saws. That being said I have a 1200A new in the box, but no bar or chain. I've seen a couple posts that said there isn't really interest for the 1200 from a collector standpoint. What I guess I'm looking for is some advice on what to do with it. Is it worth it to get a bar and chain and put it to use? Or would it just be simpler to get something a whole lot newer?

I'll hopefully be cutting 5 - 10 cords a year for the woodstove, so it won't be an everyday saw.

What a find!!!....rep for ye!

 

[pioneerguy600]

Jerry, here's those 970 carcasses I picked up a while ago:

Not bad for free, might be able to make one runner with a couple more parts if I can find them when I get the money. The plug wire's been cut though, so I'm not sure if there's enough length there to repair it with a new boot. There isn't a coil on the other one. You can see the smashed in oil tank in the top saw. Looks like I'll be stripping them both to the nuts & bolts and putting the good parts on the other case.

If it matters, the top one does have a Tillotson carb, but it's odd. The adjustment screw (there's only one) is out of location - a hole has been drilled through the model identification plate to access it, and there's nothing behind the hole that's cast into the case. Must be a replacement for an OEM Pioneer carb, I assume? I noted on Acres' site that they were available with both carbs.

Back in post #1984 I mentioned the carbs were either Tilly or OMC, as OMC was the carb maker for Pioneer at that time. There are a lot of donor saws that you can get parts from also mentioned in that post. They are a really simple saw to work on, I kept one in really nice shape here for 20 years or more and seen dozens of them come and go over the years. If another shows up I will grab it and send it out to you if you need a parts saw. Even with the 2 of them you have to work with there is likely to be some parts needed tp complete a working saw.
Pioneerguy600

 

[pioneerguy600]

Here is a pict of my 970, it is a little different color than a lot of the other Pioneers.

Pioneerguy600

 

[propliner]

Jerry, looking at your 970 pic I realized how low they set the front handle, you could barely get gloves in there!

 

[briantutt]

Jerry, looking at your 970 pic I realized how low they set the front handle, you could barely get gloves in there!

yep, just like the 1073 and P25. I posted this earlier it's pretty scary when you're used to a modern saw...chain is RIGHT by your finger.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Imagine this, that was my topping saw for 10 years, starting that saw up in the tree tops and limbing on the way up or down, no chain brake and the high compression did not contribute to making it a safe topping saw.
Pioneerguy600

 

[briantutt]

Imagine this, that was my topping saw for 10 years, starting that saw up in the tree tops and limbing on the way up or down, no chain brake and the high compression did not contribute to making it a safe topping saw.
Pioneerguy600

Agreed, this is the saw I first cut myself with fighting the high compression and trigger locked...ouch.

 

[propliner]

1074

I've been busy in my spare time doing arborist work lately and have realized that I need a better topping saw.
To free up some cash I'm selling my never-used mint 1074. I built this saw from all NOS parts a couple of years ago and have never run it. The only thing that's not new is the plastic pull start handle. It has the proper Pioneer 14" bar and new chain. It would be a great addition to any Pioneer collection. I hate to sell it but I'm open to offers from anyone on this thread first.

Brendon.

 

[DroppedP51]

Here is a pict of my 970, it is a little different color than a lot of the other Pioneers.

Hi all Duno if this has been asked before, But why were some of the saws different colours?

 

[DroppedP51]

I've been busy in my spare time doing arborist work lately and have realized that I need a better topping saw.
To free up some cash I'm selling my never-used mint 1074. I built this saw from all NOS parts a couple of years ago and have never run it. The only thing that's not new is the plastic pull start handle. It has the proper Pioneer 14" bar and new chain. It would be a great addition to any Pioneer collection. I hate to sell it but I'm open to offers from anyone on this thread first.

Brendon.

Hi neat saw , It would be a great start for someones collection

 

[pioneerguy600]

Here is a pict of my 970, it is a little different color than a lot of the other Pioneers.

Hi all Duno if this has been asked before, But why were some of the saws different colours?

If you were to follow Pioneer saws up through the years they manufactured chainsaws you would notice the colors of green/yellow varied model to model and year to year but basically pale yellow green was the standard. The 970`s were an odd color in that pale yellow green run that was the norm. Some models were painted dark green or even white & red but these saws were not of the pale yellow green line that was commonly used.
Pioneerguy600

 

[DroppedP51]

my1200

put my 1200A together today after its cosmetic overhaul The saw was sandblasted first It came out ok the paint was just matched from a chip and was unshure how painted when new, But Im happy only owes me about 20$ all up