Pioneer chainsaws

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Congrats on the saw. P50 is definitely better than P40. The early P50's did not have comp. releases. I have an oil cap, I will check on a cover. I may have an extra without a brake.

Thanks, let me know what you want for the parts, if you can part with them. The brake doesn't matter to me, my P42 and P51 don't have brakes, I'm just extra careful when using them.

Joe
 
Ads or sign art wanted

Does anyone have any high resoultion images of Pioneer graphics or ads they could send me? I would like to make some signs for the garage.
 
Pioneer Graphics,Disston

What type of stuff would you like to see.There's some Pioneer/Partner metal signs on ebay right now
Lawrence
 
crank seals and bearings

Can anybody tell me if the crank saels and bearings from my pioneer 14 20 are available at a bearing shop or are they proprietary or otherwise hard to come by? I have it split now and the clutch side bearing is noisy. the bearing pn is 427849 if anybody has any NOS . Thanks
 
Can anybody tell me if the crank saels and bearings from my pioneer 14 20 are available at a bearing shop or are they proprietary or otherwise hard to come by? I have it split now and the clutch side bearing is noisy. the bearing pn is 427849 if anybody has any NOS . Thanks

If you take your seals and bearing to a bearing supply house they can find replacement ones for them no problem, I use Motion seals and bearings, they have an outlet near me, any supplier will do. Ask for a good quality bearing with a C3 fit, seals should be double lipped.
Pioneerguy600
 
Most of the Pioneer seals and bearings are generic. Get an Applied Industrial catalog, they have sizing charts for common bearings and seals in them and are a great source of information.
 
Does anyone have any high resoultion images of Pioneer graphics or ads they could send me? I would like to make some signs for the garage.

Resolution isn't so important for that - what you'll want to do is reduce the color spectrum when just a few colors are involved (IE make sure all the Pioneer greens and yellows are constant colors, not different shades of them) and then convert it to a vector image, which can be resized infinitely without any quality loss or pixelation. Pretty much all graphic design images end up in a vector format for this reason. It doesn't work when there are photos or fine detail and color difference though. Basically how they work is that instead of the computer mapping a color to each individual pixel as in a normal JPG or BMP, the image is reduced to basic geometry, and colors are basically determined by lines and boundaries. So if you had a white circle in a black square, instead of having to assign a color to each pixel, the computer just sees the boundaries of the square and fills everything inside with black, and then overlays the white circle and fills it in. And since those shapes are determined proportionally to the overall image size instead of a pixel count, they can be scaled up or down without any quality loss whatsoever - theoretically you could make a sign the size of a sheet of plywood from a little 1" X 2" scanned image if it's done right. When normal bit-mapped images are scaled up, the computer has to generate new information from nowhere, going by closest colors and patterns etc which is why enlarged photos get a "blocky" appearance after a point.


Free online vector conversion website
 
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Brad Morgan

Resolution isn't so important for that - what you'll want to do is reduce the color spectrum when just a few colors are involved (IE make sure all the Pioneer greens and yellows are constant colors, not different shades of them) and then convert it to a vector image, which can be resized infinitely without any quality loss or pixelation. Pretty much all graphic design images end up in a vector format for this reason. It doesn't work when there are photos or fine detail and color difference though. Basically how they work is that instead of the computer mapping a color to each individual pixel as in a normal JPG or BMP, the image is reduced to basic geometry, and colors are basically determined by lines and boundaries. So if you had a white circle in a black square, instead of having to assign a color to each pixel, the computer just sees the boundaries of the square and fills everything inside with black, and then overlays the white circle and fills it in. And since those shapes are determined proportionally to the overall image size instead of a pixel count, they can be scaled up or down without any quality loss whatsoever - theoretically you could make a sign the size of a sheet of plywood from a little 1" X 2" scanned image if it's done right. When normal bit-mapped images are scaled up, the computer has to generate new information from nowhere, going by closest colors and patterns etc which is why enlarged photos get a "blocky" appearance after a point.


Free online vector conversion website

Brad what the heck did you say!LOL!
More than ever I now know that I should have stayed in school!
Lawrence
 
Jerry had a Birthday!

Just would like to give a heads up here that one of our Pioneer Gurus had a Birthday a couple of day's back. There is a thread in the off topic forum if you care to leave some good wishes
Thanks
Lawrence
 
Brad what the heck did you say!LOL!
More than ever I now know that I should have stayed in school!
Lawrence

Yeah, I kinda felt something going over my head too. Sounds neat, and I wanna see it work, but it may as well be in russian. Hope someone smarter than me wiil try it and put up some pics.:popcorn:
 
Brad what the heck did you say!LOL!
More than ever I now know that I should have stayed in school!
Lawrence

Yeah, I kinda felt something going over my head too. Sounds neat, and I wanna see it work, but it may as well be in russian. Hope someone smarter than me wiil try it and put up some pics.:popcorn:

LOL... I had a feeling I went a bit too in depth there. I didn't learn any of that at school really either - just a side effect of being a computer geek growing up and being an amateur photographer now.

If I have time later on tonight, I'll try to get Adobe Illustrator running and do a conversion on a Pioneer logo I scanned from my chainsaws book. I don't have scans of any model decals etc. though.
 
Oops

I somehow managed to delete the IPL for my P25 that was emailed to me by more than one person. I finally bought a little sand blaster and can get working on it again.

begging...

[email protected]
 
Pioneer paint

I know it is probably in this thread some where, but there are entirely way to many pages to go through. Can anyone give me any ideas on where to get paint for the P series saws. In particular, P42, P50, P51, P20. I would like to get as close to original as possible. Also, I know this has been asked before, but how about decals for the recoil starters, any good images out there?

Joe
 
Propliners P41 restore covers the paint code, pages 96-99. The later P series were yellow/black instead of yellow/dk green. You can take a piece with good paint to a auto paint store and they can scan it. As far as decals go, Joe at Sugar Creek Supply makes perfect ones. They are the same ones that E-bay seller cheapchainsawparts sells. I can't post the link because it takes you to another chainsaw site. Google- Sugar Creek Supply. I don't know if he has the P50 set completed yet. You can e-mail him to find out, I have dealt with him..... nice guy. Did you get the parts I sent yet?
 
Propliners P41 restore covers the paint code, pages 96-99. The later P series were yellow/black instead of yellow/dk green. You can take a piece with good paint to a auto paint store and they can scan it. As far as decals go, Joe at Sugar Creek Supply makes perfect ones. They are the same ones that E-bay seller cheapchainsawparts sells. I can't post the link because it takes you to another chainsaw site. Google- Sugar Creek Supply. I don't know if he has the P50 set completed yet. You can e-mail him to find out, I have dealt with him..... nice guy. Did you get the parts I sent yet?

Thanks for the info. The parts have not arrived as of yesterday. If you sent them on Monday, they may come today or tomorrow. Can't wait. BTW, thanks for the heads up on the recoils for the target saws, I got them both for 16 bucks. He also had a target saw handle that I got for 8 bucks. I'm sure they will come in handy down the road.
 
I know it is probably in this thread some where, but there are entirely way to many pages to go through. Can anyone give me any ideas on where to get paint for the P series saws. In particular, P42, P50, P51, P20. I would like to get as close to original as possible. Also, I know this has been asked before, but how about decals for the recoil starters, any good images out there?

Joe

I don't have any, but if folks were to take some good close photos of their saws from dead-on square to the decals and send them to me I should be able to separate and clean up the decal portion. It's a project I wouldn't mind working on for all saws in general, not just Pioneers.
 

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