Pioneer chainsaws

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Dragged the old 700 down the hill to a good piece of hard, frozen red oak maybe 24" across but sort of oblong in shape. Not the fastest saw (could stand for a better chain) and it is running an 8 tooth .404 with the 36" bar. But it is a lugger. And a super easy starting saw.

The hill I have to walk up and down, and not in a straight line. You can the house and shed past the rise.

thehill.jpg


The video. Pay attention no to my poor cutting technique and changing grips several times. Just not used to this stuff.

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And the saw taking a break. Judging from the fine dust on the saw, the chain isn't as sharp as I think. The HL carby serves this saw well.

pioneer700_21.jpg
 
Thanks for posting that vid, takes me back some.
Your chain does need some work, sharpen the cutters and lower the rakers to .030. What evelavation are you at? That 750 is not making power as I remember them.
Pioneeguy600
 
cbfarmall

Heh, Thanks for getting that video up on the thread.I don't know if that saw is running full power or not, I'll leave that to the Gurus.But man it just kept on truckin through that big old tree.Good ol Pioneer
Lawrence
 
I was sort of ignoring it, but the saw does seem a bit down on compression (as compared to my 850.) I installed new rings, but looking back, I failed to hone the steel sleeve at all. So, next day off, I have a 750 jug that I will clean up and a new piston that will be installed. Looks like I can swap the muffler studs and keep the 700 cast muff. The 750 jug looks pretty good to reuse. I can see alot of the original cross-hatching. Transfers are bigger than the 700, too. What is the proper way to lightly hone this thing?

These saws are so easy to work on. I had the cylinder off the 700 in about 15 minutes and no shortcuts.

Till next time, Chris B.
 
I was sort of ignoring it, but the saw does seem a bit down on compression (as compared to my 850.) I installed new rings, but looking back, I failed to hone the steel sleeve at all. So, next day off, I have a 750 jug that I will clean up and a new piston that will be installed. Looks like I can swap the muffler studs and keep the 700 cast muff. The 750 jug looks pretty good to reuse. I can see alot of the original cross-hatching. Transfers are bigger than the 700, too. What is the proper way to lightly hone this thing?

These saws are so easy to work on. I had the cylinder off the 700 in about 15 minutes and no shortcuts.

Till next time, Chris B.

It takes a long shoe three leg flex hone so that the stones don`t get caught in the ports to do them right or a specific diameter ball hone that are quite expensive, lots of kerosene for cutting/lube oil and a slow turning drill, something like 500 rpm is good. In a pinch a sheet of cotton backed sandpaper wrapped over the shoes of a small cylinder hone with the shorter shoes will allow some good cleaning of the cylinder surface so that the shoes bridge the port holes, may not be 100% accurate but does work. Use plenty of kero to keep the paper cutting, just like running stones.
Pioneerguy600
 
Well I finally got the 1200a ready to go. Took it out sat. Morning and put a tankfull through it. Great saw, blast to run. Had to cut all day though so I put it back in the truck and got a newer saw. I did happen to find her little sister a 1073, needs a little work but should be a cute pair
 
Well I finally got the 1200a ready to go. Took it out sat. Morning and put a tankfull through it. Great saw, blast to run. Had to cut all day though so I put it back in the truck and got a newer saw. I did happen to find her little sister a 1073, needs a little work but should be a cute pair

Those old pioneers are addictive. Pretty soon you'll have about twenty.:msp_smile:
 
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