Pioneer chainsaws

[Cookie]

Heat has always worked for me, most come off with the puller and a few encouraging whacks from the hammer but on occasion when necessary I have heated the outer rim of a flywheel with my B tank, when it would melt a 500 F crayon that was a good stopping point, wait a sec or two and hear that ,pop, puller pre tightened up to at least 50 lbs torque. I have not tried an electric heat gun as I doubt it could get the flywheel hot enough, maybe it could but a flywheel will lose heat rapidly due to all the fins on it so I find it needs a hot concentrated heating device.

Heat gun seemed to get decent heat going, I was using my laser temp gun to keep an eye on things as I went. I’m tginking the heat gun just has to wide of a top where the flame was more concentrated. So I could keep the heat off the crank maybe?

 

[jonsereds 621]

I'm not a Pioneer guru so I cannot say all which saws used the coil like on this 1850, I know my 750 did so I'm assuming from 700 series up a quite a ways did. I know that between Chris and I most all have coils that look like this when you open them up.. View attachment 628769

Before I knew there was a better replacement for them I swapped a Homelite coil onto the Pioneer core and it worked but the high tension wire hooks in a different place and the fit could be better.

I found this coil for a Johnson/Evinrude (of course owned by OMC as was Pioneer at one time) and is available aftermarket for reasonable. View attachment 628772

You just pop it off the core it comes on, and place it on the original Pioneer core. You have to extend the green wire going to the point box and then just bolt it in place. Works real well. View attachment 628773 View attachment 628775

Excuse me for asking, but just how the hell did You "JUST POP IT OFF" ?? I have tried the same thing for a diff saw but not yet got one away without severe damage. Please illuminate fully....what did you use , large amount of heat fast, some sort of solvent, prayer, transcendental meditation perhaps, or did you simply sit out at midnight until it became cooperative ? What sort of tape did you use to hold it in new position and did you bond it on too, with what. I always feel they must wind them first and then fit them. This is all vital information from a great mind ! PLEASE tell me ?

 

[Lou]

My saw is a Farmsaw with the Prestolite coil (blue), on that coil, there is a thin copper strip that holds the coil on the lamination. It is very easy to flatten one end of that strip and then separate those two pieces.
HTH
Lou

 

[Modifiedmark]

Excuse me for asking, but just how the hell did You "JUST POP IT OFF" ?? I have tried the same thing for a diff saw but not yet got one away without severe damage. Please illuminate fully....what did you use , large amount of heat fast, some sort of solvent, prayer, transcendental meditation perhaps, or did you simply sit out at midnight until it became cooperative ? What sort of tape did you use to hold it in new position and did you bond it on too, with what. I always feel they must wind them first and then fit them. This is all vital information from a great mind ! PLEASE tell me ?

On the aftermarket coil, it is easy, I just supported the sides of the coil in the press and just pressed the center core out of it.

The coil then just pressed onto the original core. Slow easy pressure, no pounding.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Some coils and almost all electronic modules are epoxied/sealed on to the laminate frames, they won`t come off easily.

 

[Hoggwood]

OK looks that bar plates from P41 can be made to work. Any husky or stihl like that?

I've attached some pics of the 340 manual Walter.

I was wrong. In the IPL section, there was a bar pad gasket called for. In addition, there is a page that shows a set of optional guide bar plates. I pulled an outer plate off of a 61 series Husky. It matches the stud spacing really well and fit on the PM no problem. I imagine the matching inner one could be made to work as well. I only have the smaller inner plates that are "staked" onto the studs. They wrap tight around the edge of the bar pad and would likely not match the profile on the PM well. Easy to track a set for the 61, 266, 272, 630, 625...etc.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Some coils and almost all electronic modules are epoxied/sealed on to the laminate frames, they won`t come off easily.

In cases like this it don't matter if the original comes off the core hard, it is junk anyway. Just beat the sob off. Like I said the replacement comes off easy enough if you press it off.

 

[pioneerguy600]

In cases like this it don't matter if the original comes off the core hard, it is junk anyway. Just beat the sob off. Like I said the replacement comes off easy enough if you press it off.

To get the sealed on ones off I have cut them through from the outside with a hacksaw, cut down on both sides to the laminate frames and split them in two, the frame does not get beat so bad this way. I tried a cut off disc in a mini grinder but it just loaded up badly with the plastic and epoxy plus copper wire so the hacksaw did the rest.

 

[p61 western]

To get the sealed on ones off I have cut them through from the outside with a hacksaw, cut down on both sides to the laminate frames and split them in two, the frame does not get beat so bad this way. I tried a cut off disc in a mini grinder but it just loaded up badly with the plastic and epoxy plus copper wire so the hacksaw did the rest.

I bet it smelled pretty good with the mini grinder as well lol.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I bet it smelled pretty good with the mini grinder as well lol.

That high speed stuff gets hot really fast, wasn`t the worst stuff I ever smelled but the hacksaw will be my tool of choice in the future if I ever cut one again. The older Pioneer and even older IEL saws were a breeze to swap coils out on them.

 

[Walter Glover]

I am now a believer in pressure testing old saws! Could not pump this old skil up so using air compressor regulated to 10psi the bubbles were easy to see. Pulled the pto seal and here is what was in behind it

 

[p61 western]

View attachment 637655 View attachment 637656 View attachment 637657 I am now a believer in pressure testing old saws! Could not pump this old skil up so using air compressor regulated to 10psi the bubbles were easy to see. Pulled the pto seal and here is what was in behind it

Wow that's crazy. How do the bearings feel?

 

[Walter Glover]

Bearings feel ok near as I can tell.
Makes the case for keeping chainsaws out of the grass eh!
Also regular cleaning behind the clutch for sure.

 

[jonsereds 621]

On the aftermarket coil, it is easy, I just supported the sides of the coil in the press and just pressed the center core out of it.

The coil then just pressed onto the original core. Slow easy pressure, no pounding.

Would it be possible for you to give me the cross sectional dimensions of the laminations you are able to insert into this coil (the size of the hole) and the diameter and height of coil itself. Johnson Evinrude coil is at least easy to find, but the cheap ones are most probably bonded on do you reckon ?
Thanks. Jim.

 

[Modifiedmark]

View attachment 637655 View attachment 637656 View attachment 637657 I am now a believer in pressure testing old saws! Could not pump this old skil up so using air compressor regulated to 10psi the bubbles were easy to see. Pulled the pto seal and here is what was in behind it

I don't bother testing them, I have been a believer in just changing the seals on old saws just out of knowing they will most likely need them anyway.

Being old, they might pass the test today then fail next week anyway, so might as well just change them and be done with it for another 40 years.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Would it be possible for you to give me the cross sectional dimensions of the laminations you are able to insert into this coil (the size of the hole) and the diameter and height of coil itself. Johnson Evinrude coil is at least easy to find, but the cheap ones are most probably bonded on do you reckon ?
Thanks. Jim.

No, I don't think so, I'm not taking a saw back apart. If the core/laminate is too big, just grind it down to the size you need. I have done that before. Your over thinking this.

 

[jonsereds 621]

No, I don't think so, I'm not taking a saw back apart. If the core/laminate is too big, just grind it down to the size you need. I have done that before. Your over thinking this.

Hi. I think it more likely mine will be too small (laminations.Ha) but conversely just make them bigger...Good thinking. Thanks.

 

[Beavers]

Can someone point me in the right direction for the fuel tank vent on a 1074?
Mine leaks fuel.from the clutch cover area when I tip the saw. Thinking there should be a duckbill or something to keep that from happening and to allow the fuel tank to pressurize slightly to keep it.from vapor locking.
I am having a hot start problem and the saw runs fine otherwise. My Mac 10-10 did the same thing when the duckbill went bad.

You might find the info helpful. also the Vernay check valve is located behind the silver blank in pic #3. Does your 1074 have the old style carb with primer or Tilly with pull choke set up?

 

[2stroke_shaman]

View attachment 637655 View attachment 637656 View attachment 637657 I am now a believer in pressure testing old saws! Could not pump this old skil up so using air compressor regulated to 10psi the bubbles were easy to see. Pulled the pto seal and here is what was in behind it

I like the plates and that stainless line . Great save.

 

[2broke2ride]

You might find the info helpful. also the Vernay check valve is located behind the silver blank in pic #3. Does your 1074 have the old style carb with primer or Tilly with pull choke set up?

Thanks for the additional info.