Pioneer chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I found this one from general tools . I didnt search for cheapest price .
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/general/telescoping-magnets/amy6.htm
amy6.gif
 
Back in the day everyone had one in the toolbox, they were red one end,blue on the other, North and South clearly marked. We could get them at any hardware store then, never see one now a days. A compass works well but they are reverse marked so that gets confusing for some. If the North needle is attracted to a magnet then that is a North magnet, if it repels the needle its a South magnet.
Seems bar magnets are still avaliable while old style pencil magnets are scarce as chicken lips,..
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Magnet-Expe...429273?hash=item4d6dab5ed9:g:Hk4AAOSwHo5agYY2

I found this one from general tools . I didnt search for cheapest price .
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/general/telescoping-magnets/amy6.htm
amy6.gif

Walmart $9.95 (including shipping) bar magnet, what I used in school oh so many years in the past.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Alnico-N...9197&wl11=online&wl12=129246943&wl13=&veh=sem
The MSgt in me forces me to say like poles repel.


Thanks guys. I'll have to get my hands on one or the other. It will come in handy
 
Posted by Husqvarna addict, AS Oct 18-16

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/pioneer-p61-no-spark.130254/#post-6018940

Pioneer large P series coil sub from Husqvarna 365 PN 503-96-04-05 (More than likely 503 96 24-05)


Hello I know this is an old thread but today I made a Husqvarna 365 coil fit on a pioneer P61. Just slotted the one hole in the center of the coil towards the coil itself and made a piece work for the second mount. It works great and runs good. Way cheaper then trying to find the original coil for that saw when they were all bad for loosing spark. Bit mickey mouse but it works.

I used a black unlimited coil but probably could have used a blue coil too. The second screw mount was to hold the coil back from pivoting towards the flywheel, I didn't want to try to weld a nut to the existing coil so came up with this idea. Seems to work good hasn't moved, and that stuff on the coil by the screw is seal all where I ground back the body of the coil but after finishing it I think I didn't have to grind back the body at all. Surprisingly runs awesome, before I finished it I was worrying if it would be way off time but nope doesn't kick back through the pull handle when starting, and runs great through all the rpm. I don't have a way to check the timing with a timing light etc. Just had the kill wire off to show the coil, other then that all works good when connected.


View attachment 635381


View attachment 635380

I don't have a P61 but the repair manual shows the 51 and 61 share the same ignition so the above should apply to the P51 I would think.

That's the info I followed and I thought the same thing since the ignitions are identical in size for the 51/60 series..
 
FWIW, I have an assortment of small neodymium disk magnets. You can get them fairly easily. I marked the poles using a compass. They are exeptionally strong. That is what I used to find a couple of compatible flywheel/donar coils for the XL-76's and the P50. I use them to stroke screwdrivers/ hex drivers to fish out bar studs and hold fasteners. They will magnetize anything ferromagnetic. I am going to try and reguvinate a flywheel that has weakened magnets. If that fails, I will try a rig at work we use to remagntize bar magnets.
 
Walmart $9.95 (including shipping) bar magnet, what I used in school oh so many years in the past.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Alnico-N...9197&wl11=online&wl12=129246943&wl13=&veh=sem
The MSgt in me forces me to say like poles repel.


Staples Canada price for those
https://www.staples.ca/en/Dowling-M...2-Pack-DO-731012/product_2654761_1-CA_1_20001

Staples US price for those
https://www.staples.com/Dowling-Magnets-North-South-Alnico-Bar-Magnet-2/product_881940

"In Canada retailers say welcome to our store", and whisper to themselves, "BOMF"
 
FWIW, I have an assortment of small neodymium disk magnets. You can get them fairly easily. I marked the poles using a compass. They are exeptionally strong. That is what I used to find a couple of compatible flywheel/donar coils for the XL-76's and the P50. I use them to stroke screwdrivers/ hex drivers to fish out bar studs and hold fasteners. They will magnetize anything ferromagnetic. I am going to try and reguvinate a flywheel that has weakened magnets. If that fails, I will try a rig at work we use to remagntize bar magnets.
Dad at one time owned a TV/Radio repair shop. There were more broken speakers than the law allows in his hobby shop upstairs. I had an almost inexhaustible supply of very strong round magnets as a kid.
Remember that the North pointing pointer is the South pole of a magnet.

@ fossil ;
I had no idea there was that much difference in cost by going north a little. I spent the first 20 years of my life in Maumee (Toledo suburb), Ohio. We skipped school one day and went north (probably 1968) to check out the ladies living above that border. I don't recall what Canadian school we visited but your ladies were on par with ours...
 
Dad at one time owned a TV/Radio repair shop. There were more broken speakers than the law allows in his hobby shop upstairs. I had an almost inexhaustible supply of very strong round magnets as a kid.
Remember that the North pointing pointer is the South pole of a magnet.

Good reminder.

It is interesting the number of students I see at work that struggle with the orientation of the Earth's magnetic field concept. Sometimes I like to mess with their heads a bit and throw a whole slew of reversed polarity magnets/compasses into an experiment. It really bothers them when the magnetic forces/fields on/from current carrying conductors and cathode rays contradict the Right-hand rules. Makes for interesting further discussion. The whole "up north is actually magnetic south", gets them every time.
 
MAP gas? That’s a new to me. I may have even got the air chisel out and rattled the puller and the face of the FW. Try to give it some good vibrations.
MAP gas is what I use for my plumbing torches. Way faster to sweat joints, especially bigger ones. It'll make that flywheel hub expand in no time.

Have you tried a regular propane torch to add a bit of heat that way?
 
MAP gas is what I use for my plumbing torches. Way faster to sweat joints, especially bigger ones. It'll make that flywheel hub expand in no time.

Have you tried a regular propane torch to add a bit of heat that way?
I haven’t. Think my princess auto tip crapped the bed. I’ll have to pick something up
 
Are you tightening the puller
Nut still on the shaft but say one turn loose
Using gravity holding puller in one hand
Good accurate swat on the puller with a heavy ball peen
Its gotta pop
 
Are you tightening the puller
Nut still on the shaft but say one turn loose
Using gravity holding puller in one hand
Good accurate swat on the puller with a heavy ball peen
Its gotta pop
Puller is as tight as I wanna go, I’m worried I’m going to pull the threads out of the fw. Nut flush with the crank. I have acetone/atf mix on it now. It seemed to suck into the taper well. So hopefully it’s working it’s majic in there
 

Latest posts

Back
Top