Pioneer chainsaws

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I believe the whole handle comes off with the carburetor attached and is only held to the rest of the saw with 4 studs/nuts. Its been a while since I had mine torn apart. The carb is a standard tillotson HL, so the kit you need is an RK-88HL, which should be available pretty much anywhere. There ought to be a rubber boot between the carb and the body of the handle, it should be removed in order to slide the carb off the studs for removal.

Best of luck. Here is mine
View attachment 691218
Hi Have managed to attached a couple of shots of the HC and RA. Have just put carb kits in both saws. RA is running very well. Strong with good idle. As noted in an earlier post I will need to find spark in the HC.
 

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I saw the cannon bar on Craigslist, but I didn't know what it fit so I passed on it. Looks like that was a bad decision.... hahaha. glad you and cookie got it all.

i asked for p/n on cannon. he said b-xxxx, which in cannonspeak is processor, girl @ cannon thought 36 was long for processor.
he did mention pioneer stuff. cannon turned out to be p-1xxx

If you or anyone is Intrested in some of that stuff let me know. I’ll pass it along for a reasonable price to people that can appreciate it.

same here. they are all 3/8 slot.
 
Hi Have managed to attached a couple of shots of the HC and RA. Have just put carb kits in both saws. RA is running very well. Strong with good idle. As noted in an earlier post I will need to find spark in the HC.
Those saws are very, very clean! I'd keep them as is. My HC was seized when I got it, so it got the full restoration. The ignitions on these are generally really reliable, I have an HM as well and even after sitting for 30+ years it produced strong spark. I'd check the points and continuity of the spark plug lead.
 
Hi I have a question about how to remove the carb on an HC Pioneer to put in a kit. The carb seems to be positioned tightly in the rear handle assembly. Looks like I would need to remove the assembly to get the carb out or is there a special trick here? Any help wouldbe appreaciated. I have the part diagram Thanks John
Here is a pic of the carb ass hope this helps Steve
 

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John Been said:
Job done by removing tank and rear handle. Unfortunately the saw has lost spark so a test run will need to wait. Could be due to degreasing and hosing with water so will see after drying out otherwise will check connections etc
The MSgt in me makes ask... Did you try the switch both up and down?
That's an excellent answer ML12
 
Those saws are very, very clean! I'd keep them as is. My HC was seized when I got it, so it got the full restoration. The ignitions on these are generally really reliable, I have an HM as well and even after sitting for 30+ years it produced strong spark. I'd check the points and continuity of the spark plug lead.
Thanks HC running after reconnecting the black wire to the ignition switch!
 
I need some help, trying to help out a kid with his P50, he needs a clutch shoe and I thought I had one but not sure but I think the # are switched on the package
c1c6c0cec9e8f7225394e12a42af03d8.jpg
the smaller one measures 5/8” thick the large is 15/16” thick 427736 & 426963


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Hello to everyone - I have been asked several times - when did I start collecting saw's. I started in June of 2013. The pics I have enclosed are from 2015/05 and since then I have accumulated over 200 saw's. Variety - Homelite, IEL, Lombard, McCulloch, Pioneer Saws, P.M., Remington, Strunk, Titan. And with the help of Mike Acres and other's I have the pleasure of owning some really fantastic saw's. And not one is more important than the other - as I look at the engineering and designing of each individual saw. Merry Christmas to all. Thank you, Steve
 

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I need some help, trying to help out a kid with his P50, he needs a clutch shoe and I thought I had one but not sure but I think the # are switched on the package
c1c6c0cec9e8f7225394e12a42af03d8.jpg
the smaller one measures 5/8” thick the large is 15/16” thick 427736 & 426963


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorry no insight here. All steel clutches on my p series. No p50’s here unfortunately.
 
I need some help, trying to help out a kid with his P50, he needs a clutch shoe and I thought I had one but not sure but I think the # are switched on the package
c1c6c0cec9e8f7225394e12a42af03d8.jpg
the smaller one measures 5/8” thick the large is 15/16” thick 427736 & 426963


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm not sure what you are actually requesting here. I have a P50 I can look at if you need some info. I don't have a spare clutch shoe, if that is what you are looking for.
 
Those saws are very, very clean! I'd keep them as is. My HC was seized when I got it, so it got the full restoration. The ignitions on these are generally really reliable, I have an HM as well and even after sitting for 30+ years it produced strong spark. I'd check the points and continuity of the spark plug lead.
Yes will keep them as is. A priviledge to have them and run them on occasion
 
I need some help, trying to help out a kid with his P50, he needs a clutch shoe and I thought I had one but not sure but I think the # are switched on the package
c1c6c0cec9e8f7225394e12a42af03d8.jpg
the smaller one measures 5/8” thick the large is 15/16” thick 427736 & 426963


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a p50 in a box. I will check and report back.
 
I need some help, trying to help out a kid with his P50, he needs a clutch shoe and I thought I had one but not sure but I think the # are switched on the package
c1c6c0cec9e8f7225394e12a42af03d8.jpg
the smaller one measures 5/8” thick the large is 15/16” thick 427736 & 426963


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just checked mine and it uses the narrower 5/8" clutch shoe - 3 shoe design.
 
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