Ol' Brian
ArboristSite Guru
Every tank. The grease hole is there for a reason.
POLL: Greasing bar tip sprocket frequency?
- Thread starter Sylvatica
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gmax
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Never have, chain oil lubricates the sprocket sufficiently.
john taliaferro
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may a few times. But i have 6or 8 of the little thum guns with antiseez ,lithlthem white& blackgraphite, silcone grease , i can get just a match head amount of grease. even vasline for lubeing seals.
gallegosmike
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Every fillup.... I should be using hardnose bars, but I keep lubing up the sprockets tips. They seem to be holding up okay. I grease both grease holes till grease flows out.
You carry a grease gun around with you in the woods?
Right!
gallegosmike
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One the tailgate of the pickup..... I mostly cut in flat areas, no need to pack gasoline and oil with me. I just lay everything out on the tailgate.
I use a "Oregon Chain Saw Grease Gun". My GB bars are holding up okay in the dirty conditions that I cut in.
The only saw tool I carry with me while actually cutting is a scrench and my brain..... :monkey:
I see.
If it works for you thats whats good.
I used to burn about 1.5 gallons a day and it was NEVER flat ground.
Once you leave the truck, there aint no goin back till quitten time, unless of course you can burn up the skidder driver by getting wayy ahead!!
you are better off without grease bro....
Edge & Engine
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Think about it. When you hold the bar tip over a light colorored surface and rev the saw, where is the oil going? It's going out, not in. How much oil do you really think gets down to the sprocket bearing? Can't be very much. I've seen a lot of busted out sprocket tips. I wonder how many could have been prevented by greasing the bearing.
gmax
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I don't have any problems with my sprockets failing prematurely, the bar rails wear out before the sprocket tip does.
whitedogone
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I used to grease mine a lot in my younger days....not so much anymore. I haven't gone blind....but... I can't see very well without my glasses. WDO
eyolf
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There's a ton of posts over the years on this one, and I doubt we'll all agree.
Here's my take: I'm a tight-asz: a new nose costs $20 (I think), and I've never put one on my own saws. I file bars 2 or 3 times, until I'm down under .300 groove depth and there's a step at the harder metal in the nose. At that point, I get a new bar.
A friend and a neighbor have both asked me about bar life this year. Niether grease their noses, niether can possibly have more than 50 or 60 cords of firewood on their saws, and yet one's nose was locked up, the other's had split and lost all the rollers.
I should admit that these are Oregon bars, new style with the long tongue bar nose. I don't think they are the best, but they are very common here.
I know I can get 3 or 4 times that life by turning the bars, filing when they're getting bellied, and greasing. I'm not a mountain style pro, and am willing to walk back to the truck for a break when I'm cutting. Half the wood I cut is from 12 cord loads a logger has dropped off in the barnyard! The pro's that have to scramble up and down the side of a mountain will be forced to adapt to their conditions, but mine are a cakewalk and I can afford the time it takes to grease.
I took a long time to explain the trade offs, I guess.
Here's my take: I'm a tight-asz: a new nose costs $20 (I think), and I've never put one on my own saws. I file bars 2 or 3 times, until I'm down under .300 groove depth and there's a step at the harder metal in the nose. At that point, I get a new bar.
A friend and a neighbor have both asked me about bar life this year. Niether grease their noses, niether can possibly have more than 50 or 60 cords of firewood on their saws, and yet one's nose was locked up, the other's had split and lost all the rollers.
I should admit that these are Oregon bars, new style with the long tongue bar nose. I don't think they are the best, but they are very common here.
I know I can get 3 or 4 times that life by turning the bars, filing when they're getting bellied, and greasing. I'm not a mountain style pro, and am willing to walk back to the truck for a break when I'm cutting. Half the wood I cut is from 12 cord loads a logger has dropped off in the barnyard! The pro's that have to scramble up and down the side of a mountain will be forced to adapt to their conditions, but mine are a cakewalk and I can afford the time it takes to grease.
I took a long time to explain the trade offs, I guess.
eyolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
Evan: i think most problems with bar noses comes from running the saw after the oill tank goes dry
I can see that on western saws with the oilers set all out. Here we use 20" bars a lot, and mid-size Husky/Jonsereds set at "3" will actually over oil, yet there's always just a bit of oil left when gas is gone. These neighbors have a Husky 61 and Jonsered 2065, good firewood saws for here, oilers are both set at 3, and oilers appear to be working fine (plenty oil sling).
IMO, the fault is Oregon's; I don't think they are all that great. But in my locale, Oregon distributor wants all the local trade, is willing to settle for tiny profit, so nobody carries anything else. Even Total/Jonsered bars are special order at Tilton dealers, and cost 40% more than Oregon, so maybe the end costs work out about the same.
I really like the Tsumura/total bars; I have a couple and a file barely touches them. They wear forever, and the noses seem to hold up fine. Too bad the dealers want $70 for a 20" Large Husky mount, $80 for the old-style Jonsered/Homelites.
I can see that on western saws with the oilers set all out. Here we use 20" bars a lot, and mid-size Husky/Jonsereds set at "3" will actually over oil, yet there's always just a bit of oil left when gas is gone. These neighbors have a Husky 61 and Jonsered 2065, good firewood saws for here, oilers are both set at 3, and oilers appear to be working fine (plenty oil sling).
IMO, the fault is Oregon's; I don't think they are all that great. But in my locale, Oregon distributor wants all the local trade, is willing to settle for tiny profit, so nobody carries anything else. Even Total/Jonsered bars are special order at Tilton dealers, and cost 40% more than Oregon, so maybe the end costs work out about the same.
I really like the Tsumura/total bars; I have a couple and a file barely touches them. They wear forever, and the noses seem to hold up fine. Too bad the dealers want $70 for a 20" Large Husky mount, $80 for the old-style Jonsered/Homelites.
GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
Never have, never will...
Gary
Gary
grease every time I dress the bar rails
Ol' Brian
ArboristSite Guru
All I know is that at every fillup when I grease my bar noses... I never see the fresh grease push out any bar oil...:taped:
I do see it push out sawdust/chips quite frequently though. Maybe the chips do lubricate well... works for the naysayers apparently
I do see it push out sawdust/chips quite frequently though. Maybe the chips do lubricate well... works for the naysayers apparently
gmax
Addicted to ArboristSite
All I know is that at every fillup when I grease my bar noses... I never see the fresh grease push out any bar oil...:taped:
I do see it push out sawdust/chips quite frequently though. Maybe the chips do lubricate well... works for the naysayers apparently
That's because the grease forms a barrier preventing the chain oil lubricating the sprocket
opcorn:
Ol' Brian
ArboristSite Guru
that's because the grease forms a barrier preventing the chain oil lubricating the sprocket
lol!
